G,  GSMAN 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING 
AT  HOME 


Cleaning  and  Renovating 
at  Home 

A  Household  Manual 


By 
E.  G.  OSMAN 


Enlarged  Edition, 


1  1  iJJJ.5  ^   ""  1     "  , 

•  O          1  •*     »    (       .,          \     5        ,       1  * 


HOME  ECONOMY  BOOK  COMPANY 

WILMETTE,   ILLINOIS 
Chicago  Office  1910 

133  W.  Washington  St. 


COPYRIGHT 

A.  C.  McCLURG  &  CO, 

1910 


PUBLISHED  MARCH  12.  1910 


COPYRIGHT 

W.  F.  ZIMMERMAN 

1919 


PUBLISHED  FEBRUARY.  1919 


.  F.,M*U,IWW1 


CONTENTS 


Chapter  Page 

I    SOME  GENERAL  PRINCIPLES 9 

II    DRY-CLEANING  COMPOUNDS,  OR  SOLVENTS 12 

III  THE  PROCESS  OF  DRY-CLEANING 16 

IV  SOLVENTS  FOR  REMOVING  STAINS 18 

V    REMOVING  STAINS — GENERAL  PRINCIPLES 31 

VI    REMOVING  STAINS — WHITE  GOODS 33 

VII    REMOVING  STAINS — SPECIAL  APPLICATIONS 36 

VIII    RENOVATING  COTTON  AND  LINEN  FABRICS 59 

IX    CLEANING  AND   RENOVATING  WOOLLENS 63 

X    RENOVATING  MEN'S  CLOTHING 68 

XI    CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  CARPETS 70 

XII    CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  CURTAINS 82 

XIII  CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  FEATHERS 87 

XIV  CLEANING  FURS 93 

XV    CLEANING  GLOVES 96 

XVI    CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  HATS ^ 103 

XVII    CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  LACES 107 

XVIII  CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  LEATHERS  AND  LEATHER 

GOODS 117 

XIX    CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  RIBBONS 125 

XX    CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  SATINS 128 

XXI    CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  SILKS 131 

XXII  CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  VELVET  AND  VELVETEEN.  .139 

XXIII  TREATMENTS  FOR  VARIOUS  FABRICS 142 

XXIV  CLEANING  JEWELRY 151 

XXV    THE  LAUNDRY 159 

XXVI    THE  PROCESS '.165 

XXVII    SPECIAL  WORK 180 

INDEX  ...  ..211 


Cleaning  and  Renovating 
at  Home 

CHAPTER  I 
SOME  GENERAL  PRINCIPLES 

BEFORE  undertaking  systematically  to  clean, 
even  in  part,  any  garment  or  fabric,  be  sure  to 
remove  all  loose  dirt  by  brushing  or  otherwise. 

Professional  cleaners  use  two  processes,  the  wet 
and  the  dry.  In  the  former,  soap  is  the  cleansing 
medium;  in  the  latter,  the  petroleum  products,  chlo- 
roform, turpentine  •  and  other  solvents,  references  to 
the  application  of  which  will  follow.  For  the  most 
part,  these  liquids  and  their  compounds  are  combus- 
tible, and  they  must  be  handled  and  used  with  caution 
and  never  in  proximity  to  an  open  fire  or  gas  flame, 
owing  to  their  volatile  nature.  They  should  be  kept 
in  tight  receptacles,  the  operator  drawing  into  a  cup, 
or  similar  vessel,  only  such  quantities  as  may  be 
needed  from  time  to  time.  This  method  will  be  found 
both  economical  and  safe.- 

When  the  piece  is  to  be  dipped,  it  is  better  and 
more  economical  to  use  a  vessel  with  a  cover,  which 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

will  prevent  excessive  evaporation  and  save  the  liquid, 
which  may  be  filtered  and  used  again.  Frequently,  to 
obtain  the  best  results,  the  article  may  be  wrung  out 
of  the  liquid  and  given  a  second  bath,  or  even  a  third. 
This  thoroughness  of  method  would  entail  consid- 
erable expense  for  the  solvent  alone  if  the  liquid  were 
thrown  away  after  one  using  or  allowed  to  evaporate. 
For  all  ordinary  purposes  gasoline,  benzine,  or  benzol 
can  be  used  repeatedly,  if  strained  through  filter  pa- 
per, which  may  be  bought  at  any  drug  store. 

All  bottles  containing  cleaning  liquids  should  be 
preferably  of  a  kind  different  from  those  ordinarily 
found  on  kitchen,  laundry,  or  pantry  shelves;  and 
they  should  be  carefully  labelled  and  so  placed  as  to 
be  out  of  the  reach  of  children. 

When  removing  spots  a  pad  of  blotting  paper  or 
absorbent  cotton  should  be  put  under  the  material 
being  cleaned  before  commencing  the  process.  This 
pad  will  absorb  the  dirt  loosened  by  the  solvent  and 
will  aid  in  preventing  the  ring  so  often  found  on  the 
fabric  after  the  spot  is  removed,  especially  when  ben- 
zine is  used.  Sometimes  the  ring  is  the  result  of  an 
impure  solvent.  In  rubbing  out  spots,  therefore,  the 
expert  cleaner  with  chemicals  will  advise  the  use  of 
the  absorbent  pad,  or  even  bread  crumbs,  to  take  up 
the  excess  of  liquid.  He  will  also  rub  round  and 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

round  and  toward  the  specific  spot  to  be  removed,  a 
method  that,  by  concentrating  the  absorption  at  the 
spot  itself,  will  tend  to  prevent  the  ring  forming  at 
all.  The  circle  should  be  quite  large  to  facilitate  quick 
absorption.  When  the  spot  is  removed,  a  succession 
of  dry  cloths  should  be  used  to  dry  the  article  or 
fabric  treated.  Should  there  be  any  trace  of  the  ben- 
zine, or  a  solvent  stain,  however,  in  spite  of  this  pre- 
caution, it  may  often  be  removed  by  scraping  some 
French  chalk  over  the  spot,  leaving  it  on  for  some 
hours  to  absorb  the  solvent,  before  brushing  it  off. 
A  piece  of  the  same  fabric  that  is  being  cleaned,  or 
one  as  nearly  like  it  in  color  and  texture  as  possible, 
should  be  used  for  the  rubbing  process,  except  when 
cleaning  delicate  silk,  when  white  flannel  should  be 
used. 

Some  cleaners  use  sponges  for  rubbing  out  spots, 
as  they  are  considered  easier  on  the  hands  and  better 
adapted  for  picking  up  the  dirt  quickly.  They  are 
easily  cleaned,  but  they  must  be  cleaned  after  each 
using,  and  very  carefully. 

Marion  Harland  advises  gently  scratching  the  out- 
line of  an  obstinate  "ring"  with  the  finger  nail,  until 
it  blends  with  the  surrounding  stuff. 


11 


CHAPTER  II 
DRY-CLEANING  COMPOUNDS,  OR  SOLVENTS 

THE  process  of  dry-cleaning  consists  in  immersing 
the  fabric  or  garment  in  benzine  or  some  other 
solvent  which  dissolves  fat.  Benzine,  benzol,  carbon 
tetrachloride,  and  turpentine  are  those  most  com- 
monly used,  because  they  are  the  cheapest  as  well 
as  the  most  effective  solvents,  although  others  of  less 
moderate  cost  may  be  employed.  The  benzine  sol- 
vents named  below  may  be  used  without  affecting 
the  most  delicate  colors  and  without  requiring  that  a 
garment  be  taken  to  pieces.  The  solvents  in  common 
use  by  cleaners  are  as  follows: 

Antibenzinpyrin. — This  is  a  preparation  made  of 
white  soap,  magnesium  chloride  or  magnesium  sul- 
phate, and  benzine.  Used  by  professional  cleaners. 
(See  Benzine,  Gelatinized.) 

Benzine. — A  petroleum  product,  highly  inflam- 
mable as  well  as  volatile.  It  must  be  used  with  cau- 
tion and  away  from  any  open  flame.  It  may  also  be 
accidentally  exploded  by  high  friction.  It  is  usually 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

not  distinguished  by  the  trade  from  gasoline,  but  it 
is  different  from  benzol,  in  that  it  is  less  pure.  The 
latter  has  no  effect  whatever  on  the  tint  or  color  of 
any  fabric;  benzine  has  only  a  slight  effect,  if  any. 
Benzine  is  a  powerful  solvent  of  oils  and  fats,  and 
is  used  alone  or  with  other  solvents. 

When  using  benzine  or  gasoline  in  the  household, 
it  is  well  to  be  liberal  with  the  liquid.  Use  a  vessel 
large  enough  to  cover  thoroughly  with  the  liquid  the 
fabric  or  garment  being  cleaned;  close  the  vessel 
tightly  and  let  the  fabric  soak  for  some  hours,  then 
wring  out  lightly  and  let  it  hang  in  the  air  and  sun- 
shine. After  airing,  if  there  are  still  any  spots,  wet 
the  rubbing  cloth  with  warm  water  and  touch  the 
spots,  rubbing  gently  thereafter  with  a  dry  cloth.  It 
is  said  that  if  the  vessel  containing  the  garment  soak- 
ing in  the  liquid  is  set  in  warm  water,  the  action  of 
the  solvent  will  be  hastened. 

Benzine,  Gelatinized. — Dissolve  twelve  ounces  of 
olive  oil  soap  in  eighteen  ounces  of  boiling  water  and 
three  ounces  of  liquid  ammonia;  add  water  to  make 
one  and  a  half  pints  of  liquid ;  add  five  ounces  of  ben- 
zine and  shake  well.  One  ounce  of  this  mixture  is 
then  added  to  nine  ounces  of  benzine  to  form  a  gela- 
tinized benzine.  When  using  shake  constantly.  This 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

is  a  substitute  for  antibenzinpyrin,  and  is  used  for 
removing  stains,  etc.,  in  the  same  way  that  benzine 
is  used. 

Benzinized  Magnesia. — Calcined  magnesia  is  mixed 
with  sufficient  benzine  to  make  the  magnesia  moist 
(a  little  more  so  than  a  paste).  Spread  thickly  over 
the  stain  and  rub  in  well ;  let  the  benzine  evaporate ; 
then  rub  off  the  magnesia. 

Benzine  Soaps. — These  are  more  efficacious  than 
either  substance  used  alone,  but  their  use,  especially 
on  an  extensive  scale,  is  attended  with  some  danger 
from  electric  ignition. 

Carbon  Tetrachloride,  or  Tetrachloromethane. — 
This  liquid  is  becoming  very  popular  for  dry-cleaning 
and  as  a  solvent  for  fats,  both  on  account  of  its  effi- 
cacy and  because  it  is  non-inflammable  and  non-ex- 
plosive. It  is  used  for  all  cleaning  purposes  to  which 
benzine  is  adapted,  and  has  the  advantage  over  ben- 
zine that  it  can  be  used  on  the  most  delicate  tints, 
like  silks,  has  less  tendency  than  benzine  to  make 
rings  when  used  to  remove  spots,  leaves  the  leather 
of  cleaned  gloves  softer  and  less  liable  to  crack,  and 
loses  less  by  evaporation  than  benzine.  Even  this 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

loss  can  be  wholly  prevented  when  the  liquid  is  not 
in  use  by  covering  it  in  its  container  with  a  deep 
layer  of  water,  drawing  the  carbon  for  use  from  the 
bottom  of  the  vessel.  It  is  excellent  for  removing 
grease  stains,  even  old  ones. 

This  substance  has  been  used  as  a  "dry  shampoo," 
a  fact  that  calls  for  the  caution  that  while  in  ordinary 
use  its  fumes  are  not  so  harmful  as  those  of  chloro- 
form and  benzine  (although  more  poisonous  in  fact), 
it  is  because  they  are  heavier  than  air  and  sink  to  the 
lowest  level.  It  is  therefore  very  dangerous  as  a 
shampoo,  or  when  used  in  such  a  manner  that  the 
operative's  lungs  are  below  the  level  of  the  substance 
itself.  It  should  therefore  be  used  only  OIL  the  lowest 
floor  of  the  house. 

Turpentine. — Use  only  the  best,  if  any.  It  is  a 
good  solvent  for  fats,  but  is  little  used  in  dry-cleaning 
because  it  leaves  an  unpleasant  odor. 


15 


CHAPTER  III 
THE  PROCESS  OF  DRY-CLEANING 

THE  process  of  dry-cleaning  is  suitable  for  white 
silk  fabrics ;  ribbons  and  goods  in  which,  though 
they  contain  other  colors,  white  is  nevertheless  the 
prevailing  color;  woollens  and  half-woollen  fabrics; 
silks,  velvets  and  all  other  colored  silk  stuffs;  light 
colored  woollens  and  half-woollen  fabrics;  dark  col- 
ored fabrics.* 

The  process  is  less  suitable  for  half-silk  fabrics,  or 
for  cotton  and  linen  stuffs,  which  can  be  better 
cleaned  in  the  laundry,  or  with  the  tampion  and 
brush. 

First  clean  the  garment  of  all  dust  by  beating  and 
brushing  and  be  sure  that  it  is  perfectly  dry,  other- 
wise after  the  cleaning  the  garment  or  fabric  will  be 
spotted.  If  there  is  reason  to  suspect  the  benzine  of 
containing  water,  a  dry  cotton  cloth  run  through  it 
will  usually  absorb  all  the  moisture. 

If  the  fabric  is  badly  stained,  use  a  ball  (called  a 
tampion  and  made  by  tying  some  wadding  in  a  piece 

*"The  Practical  Dry-Cleaner,  Scourer  and  General  Dyer," 
By  Wan.  T.  Brannt.  H.  C.  Baird  &  Co.,  1907. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

of  white  linen)  wet  with  benzine  to  saturate  and  rub 
the  spots  before  soaking  the  fabric  in  the  benzine.  (If 
more  than  one  article  is  to  be  cleaned  in  the  same 
liquid,  clean  the  darkest  piece  last.)  When  handling 
the  fabric  in  the  benzine,  proceed  as  if  washing  it  in 
suds,  but  rub  the  fabric  with  the  hands  and  not  upon 
a  board.  Air  for  several  hours  in  the  sunshine.  After 
the  benzine  is  evaporated,  the  fabric  may  be  brushed 
with  cold  water. 

White  woollens  and  silks  that  are  very  dirty  ought 
to  be  sent  to  the  professional  cleaner,  as  they  require 
greater  care  and  a  more  elaborate  process  to  obtain 
satisfactory  results.  Velvets  also  require  steaming 
to  restore  the  pile  after  cleaning.  Where  there  are 
stains  on  these  fabrics,  made  by  oil,  paint,  tar,  or 
varnish,  the  treatment  needed  is  complicated  and 
should  be  undertaken  only  by  a  first-class  profes- 
sional, if  the  article  is  of  any  material  value. 


17 


CHAPTER  IV 
SOLVENTS  FOR  REMOVING  STAINS 

HURST  says :  "It  may  be  laid  down  that  cotton 
fabrics,  or  fabrics  containing1  cotton,  should  not 
be  treated  with  strong  acids."  Even  dilute  acids  have 
a  destructive  effect.  "Certain  organic  acids,  such  as 
acetic,  oxalic,  and  tartaric  acids,  may  be  used  if  the 
acid  is  necessary  to  remove  stains."  * 

Linens  and  fabrics  made  from  vegetable  fibres 
should  be  treated  like  cottons. 

Neither  wool,  silk,  nor  animal  fibres  should  be 
treated  with  strong  alkaline  liquids.  Weak  ammonia 
may  be  applied  to  these,  and  also  very  weak  solu- 
tions of  soda;  but  it  is  best,  when  fabrics  made  of 
these  fibers  are  to  be  dealt  with,  never  to  use  any 
other  alkali  than  ammonia,  which  has  no  action  on 
them.  Acids  of  a  moderate  degree  of  strength  have 
no  effect  on  animal  fibres. 

No  single  compound,  or  solvent,  can  be  recom- 
mended for  universal  use,  for  obvibus  reasons ;  but 
every  housewife  should  keep  on  hand  a  bottle  of  am- 
monia, a  can  of  benzine,  and  certain  of  the  compounds 

*"Dyeing  and  Cleaning."  By  Geo.  H.   Hurst,   London. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

hereinafter  named.  These  should  be  kept  in  a  place 
by  themselves  and  suitably  labelled.  The  following 
compounds  will  be  found  most  useful ;  they  cover 
practically  all  the  necessities  of  household  practice : 

Acetic  Acid. — Used,  diluted  with  water,  for  remov- 
ing stains  caused  by  alkalies.  Increases  the  efficacy 
of  alcohol,  benzine,  and  ether  in  some  cases.  Will 
liven  up  colors  injured  by  dust,  especially  skirts, 
when  these  are  afterwards  rinsed  in  clean  water. 
Does  not  act  well  upon  dyed  fabrics. 

Alcohol. — Use  grain  alcohol ;  inflammable  but  not 
explosive.  It  dissolves,  entirely  or  partially,  fat  oils, 
fats,  and  many  resins,  as  well  as  certain  salts,  alka- 
loids, etc.  Used  alone  or  in  combination  with  one 
part  alcohol  and  one  part  of  ether  or  chloroform. 
(Keep  tightly  corked.)  Can  be  used  on  the  most 
delicate  fabrics.  Wood  alcohol  (a  poison)  will  re- 
move stains  from  light  cloth. 

Alcohol  and  Chloroform. — A  mixture  of  alcohol 
and  chloroform  in  equal  parts,  one-third  as  much 
gasoline  as  of  each  of  the  other  ingredients,  and  a 
tablespoonful  of  ammonia  to  each  pint  of  the  com- 
pound— is  an  eradicator  of  everyday  spots.  A  bottle 

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of  it  should  be  in  every  woman's  bathroom.  Keep 
it  closely  corked,  as  it  is  very  volatile.  Sponge  the 
spots — be  they  grease  or  mud  or  stickiness — faith- 
fully with  this,  and  dry  in  the  air  and  shade. 

Ammonia. — Invaluable  for  the  removal  of  stains 
from  all  wool  or  other  fabrics  made  of  animal  fibres. 
Neutralizes  the  effect  of  acids  and  fresh  fruit  stains, 
red  wine,  and  red  ink.  Before  using,  the  color  of  the 
fabric  should  be  tested,  as  it  may  change  under  the 
influence  of  the  solvent. 

Ammonia  Soap,  etc. — Aqua  ammonia,  one  gallon; 
soft  water,  eight  gallons;  best  white  soap,  four 
pounds;  saltpetre,  eight  ounces.  Shave  the  soap  fine, 
add  the  water  and  boil  till  the  soap  is  dissolved.  Let 
it  settle,  skim  off  dry  suds,  add  ammonia  and  salt- 
petre, and  put  into  fruit  jars.  It  removes  grease  spots 
from  carpets,  rugs,  and  any  kind  of  wearing  apparel. 

Benzine. — See  Chapter  II. 

Camphor  and  Borax. — Dissolve  one  ounce  gum 
camphor  and  one  ounce  borax  in  one  quart  boiling 
water.  When  cool  add  one  quart  of  alcohol ;  put  in 
a  bottle  and  keep  well  corked.  Before  using  shake 
well ;  apply  with  a  sponge. 

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Camphorated  Borax. — Put  five  cents*  worth  of  bo- 
rax with  ten  cents'  worth  of  camphor  gum  in  a  large 
bowl,  and  dissolve  them  with  an  equal  quantity  of 
boiling  water.  Use  to  remove  spots  and  grease  from 
black  fabrics.  Apply  the  renovator,  diluted  with  an 
equal  quantity  of  water,  with  a  piece  of  black  stock- 
ing, using  it  as  a  sponge.  Press  the  garment  after- 
ward, and  it  should  be  as  fresh  as  new. 

Carbon  Tetrachloride—  See  Chapter  II. 

Chloroform. — Less  dangerous  than  ether.  May  be 
diluted  with  alcohol.  Will  remove  paint  stains,  ex- 
cept on  silks.  Use  with  a  small  quantity  of  ammo- 
nia; follow  by  a  washing  in  soapsuds. 

Citric  Acid. — In  two  quarts  of  water,  previously 
boiled  and  cooled,  dissolve  four  ounces  of  citric  acid ; 
add  six  to  eight  ounces  of  a  strong,  strained  solution 
of  borax;  and  bottle  (No.  1).  To  two  quarts  of 
water,  previously  boiled  and  cooled,  add  three-quar- 
ters of  a  pound  of  chloride  of  lime;  shake  and  let 
stand  from  four  to  six  days,  after  which  strain  and 
add  from  six  to  eight  ounces  of  a  strong  solution  of 
borax,  and  place  in  a  separate  bottle  (No.  2).  This 
compound  is  useful  to  remove  ink  from  paper,  cloth 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

or  other  absorbent  substance.  The  composition  in 
bottle  No.  1  is  applied  so  as  to  saturate  thoroughly 
the  place  occupied  by  the  ink,  a  blotter  being  used 
to  absorb  all  waste  moisture.  By  the  combined  use 
of  the  two  fluids  thus  described,  writing  inks  or  other 
fluids  will  be  immediately  dissolved  and  removed 
from  the  paper. 

Cleaning  Paste. — Fill  a  pail  half  full  of  soft  rain- 
water and  add  a  teaspoonful  of  Soap-powder  to  it ;  stir 
it  well,  then  set  on  the  stove  to  boil.  When  it  boils 
set  it  off  to  cool.  It  will  form  a  paste  which  can  be 
reduced  when  necessary,  or  made  as  thin  as  you  like. 
Get  a  glass  bottle  with  large  mouth  and  pour  this 
into  it,  and  then  stop  it  tight,  and  keep  on  hand  for 
emergencies.  It  will  remove  grease  spots  and  all 
kinds  of  soil.  Apply  with  a  damp  cloth,  and  after 
the  soiled  places  are  all  gone,  rinse  with  clean,  warm 
water. 

Coffee. — Black  goods,  silk,  wool,  or  cotton,  will  look 
like  new  if  sponged  with  strong  black  coffee  that  has 
been  strained,  and  to  which  a  few  spoonfuls  of  am- 
monia have  been  added. 

Cornmeal  or  Flour. — White  cornmeal  or  flour  is 
used  to  dry-clean  white  or  any  light  shade  of  wool- 

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len  goods,  and  other  articles.  Place  the  article  to  be 
cleaned  in  a  large  vessel  and  cover  with  white  corn- 
oneal  or  flour;  add  powdered  borax;  use  the  same 
movement  as  in  washing  with  water;  shake  well  and 
brush  in  the  open  air.  Repeat  the  process  if  neces- 
sary. 

Cream  of  Tartar  and  Citric  Acid. — Mix  cream  of 
tartar  and  citric  acid  in  equal  parts.  Good  for  re- 
moving stains.  Moisten  the  spot  with  hot  water  and 
rub  in  the  mixture.  When  the  stain  is  removed,  wash 
the  article  with  water  and  dry. 

Egg. — The  yolk  of  a  fresh  egg  is  nearly  equivalent 
to  ox  gall,  but  must  be  used  directly  it  comes  from 
the  shell.  It  is  sometimes  mixed  with  an  equal  bulk 
of  turpentine. 

Ether. — Very  volatile  and  if  ignited  explodes  with 
great  violence;  must  be  used  with  extreme  caution. 
A  good  solvent  for  fats  and  resins. 

Ether,  Sulphuric. — Extremely  inflammable — use 
with  great  caution;  evaporates  rapidly;  leaves  no  cir- 
cle around  the  spot  removed;  cleans  white  satins, 
silks,  and  chiffon  just  as  soap  and  water  do  linens. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

To  use:  First  spread  the  fabric  over  a  smooth,  ab- 
sorbent surface ;  then  take  a  piece  of  white  flannel 
and,  putting  it  to  the  mouth  of  the  bottle,  wet  it 
thoroughly,  corking  the  bottle  immediately  and  also 
hastening  to  get  the  wet  cloth  on  the  soiled  spot 
before  the  precious  fluid  is  dissipated.  The  spot  should 
first  be  thoroughly  moistened  with  the  ether  and  then 
rubbed  very  gently  along  the  thread  of  the  goods. 
When  dry  apply  a  fresh  supply  and  repeat  until  it 
is  quite  clean.  Ether  will  take  out  all  greases  es- 
pecially well  and  also  removes  dirt,  etc.,  that  has 
settled  in  the  grease. 

"Excellent"  Cleaner.— The  following  will  clean  all 
manner  of  cloths,  felts,  silks,  and  woollens;  it  will 
also'  restore  the  color  to  faded  materials.  It  does  not 
take  the  stiffness  out  of  fabrics,  and  is  a  preventive 
of  moths.  Take  eight  ounces  of  benzine,  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  chloroform,  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  sul- 
phuric ether,  eighth  of  an  ounce  of  oil  of  wintergreen. 
Shake  this  mixture  thoroughly  before  using  and  be 
sure  to  keep  away  from  fire  or  heat.  Apply  this  to 
the  material  with  a  soft  cloth. 

Fuse  Oil. — Solvent  for  varnishes,  resins,  and.  oil 
colors.  Air  the  cleaned  articles. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

Glycerin. — Solvent  for  alkalies,  alkaloids,  dye-stuffs 
and  other  bodies.  A  mixture  of  equal  quantities  of 
yolk  of  egg  and  glycerin  is  useful  for  removing  stains 
from  white  flannel  and  other  white  woollen  fabrics. 
Spread  the  compound  on  the  stain,  leave  it  to  soak  in 
for  half  an  hour,  then  wash  the  garment  as  usual. 

Glycerin  and  Soft  Soap. — These,  with  water,  may 
be  used  to  remove  iron  stains  from  colored  fabrics, 
the  color  of  which  would  be  affected  by  acids.  Rub 
the  spot  and  let  the  solvent  remain  for  some  hours ; 
then  wash  with  water.  Repeat  if  necessary. 

Javelle  Water. — Dissolve  one  pound  of  sal  soda  in 
one  quart  of  boiling  water;  dissolve  half  a  pound  of 
chloride  of  lime  in  two  quarts  of  cold  water.  Let 
both  settle  and  pour  off  the  clear  liquid.  Mix,  filter, 
and  bottle  and  keep  in  a  dark  place.  (See  also  direc- 
tions on  the  chloride  package.)  Use  for  bleaching 
textile  fabrics  and  wash  goods,  and  for  removing 
fruit  and  red  wine  stains  from  those  fabrics.  For 
whitening  clothing  put  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  the  liquid  into  the  water  in  which  the  clothing  is 
boiled.  To  remove  stains  from  white  goods,  dilute 
the  Javelle  water  with  its  own  volume  of  cold  water. 
Soak  the  article  in  this  until  the  stain  disappears,  then 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

rinse  thoroughly  in  several  clear  waters,  and  finally 
in  diluted  ammonia  water.  Javelle  water  removes  al- 
most all  stains  and  all  colors,  therefore  it  should  not 
be  used  on  colored  articles.  If  articles  are  allowed 
to  remain  in  the  Javelle  water  for  a  long  time  it  will 
injure  the  fibre.  The  action  of  the  water,  if  too  strong, 
is  counteracted  by  immersing  the  fabric  in  ammonia 
or  in  a  solution  of  sodium  hyposulphite. 

Lemon  Juice  and  Salt. — This  mixture  will  remove 
ordinary  stains. 

Lye,  etc. — Dissolve  a  piece  of  lye,  the  size  of  a 
walnut,  in  a  bucket  of  cold  water.  This  solution  may 
be  used  on  strong  articles.  Soak  the  article  over 
night;  then  wash  with  a  good  white  soap  and  boil, 
finishing  by  running  through  weak  blue  water.  The 
objection  that  the  lye  will  rot  the  material  is  not 
sustained  save  in  the  case  of  very  delicate  materials. 

Milk. — A  valuable  detersive.  If  an  article  wet  with 
ink  be  washed  out  in  sweet  milk  before  the  ink  has 
dried,  the  stain  will'  be  removed.  Used  scalding  hot, 
milk  is  more  effective  in  removing  stains  from  cotton 
or  linen  fabrics  than  hot  water. 

Ox  Gall. — Ox  gall  is  a  solvent  for  most  fats  and 
does  not  injure  the  fabric  or  the  color,  and  is  prefer- 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

able  .to  soap  for  woollens,  but  is  apt  to  give  a  false 
shade  to  fabrics  in  light  and  delicate  colors.  Mixed 
with  turpentine,  alcohol,  yolk  of  egg,  fuller's  earth, 
etc.,  it  is  used  for  cleaning  silk. 

Oxalic  Acid. — Very  poisonous.  It  serves  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  tartaric  or  for  citric  acid,  or  both. 

Oxalic  Acid  Solution. — Take  three  ounces  of  oxalic 
acid  crystals,  and  add  one  pint  of  water ;  bottle,  cork 
tightly,  and  mark  plainly  with  a  label,  "Poison."  In 
using,  dilute  well  a  small  quantity  in  a  bowl  by  add- 
ing more  clear  water  and  either  soak  the  entire  ar- 
ticle in  this,  or  wet  the  place  where  the  stain  is,  be- 
ginning with  a  weak  solution  and  increasing  the 
strength,  if  necessary;  or  keep  moistening  the  stain 
(which  should  be  placed  on  a  plate)  by  means  of  a 
bit  of  absorbent  cotton  on  the  end  of  a  toothpick,  set- 
ting the  plate  with  the  stain  exposed  where  the  direct 
rays  of  strong  sunshine  will  fall  upon  it.  After  using 
the  acid  to  remove  a  stain,-  wash  out  the  place  thor- 
oughly in  strong  ammonia  water  to  counteract  the 
action  of  the  acid,  and  then  rinse  thoroughly  in  clear 
water,  remembering  that  the  acid  rots  the  material, 
and,  like  any  acid  or  bleach,  is  sure  to  weaken  the 
fabric  unless  it  is  thoroughly  rinsed  away,  and  its 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

action   counteracted   or   destroyed   by   the   ammonia. 
Be  careful  of  the  hands  when  using  this  acid. 

Pipe  Clay. — Put  equal  parts  of  pipe  clay  and  whit- 
ing into  a  piece  of  thin  old  muslin  or  linen  and  tie 
up  to  form  a  small  ball.  Place  the  garment  to  be 
cleansed  on  a  table  and  cover  it  with  clean  bran. 
Rub  thoroughly  with  the  ball  of  pipe  clay,  shake  off 
the  bran,  and  brush  with  a  perfectly  clean  whisk 
broom.  Will  clean  white  or  colored  cloth  garments, 
white  flannel  sailor  suits,  white  belts  and  shoes. 

Potato  Cleaner. — Grate  two  medium  sized  potatoes 
into  a  bowl  containing  one  pint  of  clean  cold  water; 
stir  well  and  strain  carefully  through  a  sieve  or 
cheesecloth,  allowing  the  liquid  to  fall  into  another 
vessel  containing  an  additional  pint  of  cold  water. 
Let  this  settle,  and  then  pour  off  the  water,  being 
careful  to  allow  no  "settlings"  to  go  off  with  the 
water,  and  bottle  for  use.  Softly  rub  the  soiled  fabric 
or  garment  with  a  sponge  dipped  in  the  potato  water, 
after  which  wast}  it  in  clean  water,  dry  carefully  and 
iron.  Slight  stains  can  be  removed  from  black  cloth 
by  rubbing  with  a  freshly  cut  raw  potato,  wiping  with 
a  clean  cloth. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

Scorch  Solvent. — Extract  the  juice  from  two  large 
onions  and  mix  with  it  two  ounces  of  fuller's  earth, 
half  an  ounce  of  white  soap  cut  in  pieces,  and  half  a 
pint  of  vinegar.  Boil  this  compound  well  and  when 
cool  spread  on  the  scorched  linen,  leaving  it  to  dry. 
Then  wash  the  linen.  If  necessary  repeat  the  process. 

Soap-bark. — Useful  for  freshening  up  woollens  of 
any  dark  color.  It  is  much  used  by  dyers  and  scour- 
ers as  a  cleaner  for  dusty  and  greasy  clothes,  espe- 
cially men's.  To  prepare  for  use,  pour  a  quart  of 
boiling  water  over  five  cents'  worth  of  soap-bark; 
steep  this  gently  over  a  low  fire  for  two  hours ;  strain 
the  liquid  through  a  piece  of  cheesecloth  into  a  jar. 
When  using  have  a  smooth  board  or  table  and  lay 
the  fabric  on  this  and  sponge  carefully  on  both  sides, 
giving  special  attention  to  the  very  much  soiled  parts. 
After  sponging,  rinse  in  ammonia  and  water. 

Tartaric  Acid. — This  is  a  substitute  for  the  more 
expensive  citric  acid  and  may  be  used  wherever  the 
latter  is  called  for. 

"Universal"  Cleaning  Fluid. — Dissolve  four  ounces 
of  white  Castile  soap  in  one  quart  of  boiling  rain- 
water. When  cool  add  four  ounces  of  ammonia,  two 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

ounces  each  of  alcohol,  ether,  and  glycerin,  and, 
lastly,  one  gallon  of  rainwater.  This  is  an  excellent 
cleaning  fluid  to  bottle  and  keep  for  emergencies.  It 
will  remove  spots  from  carpets,  rugs,  table-covers, 
and  also  grease  spots  from  clothing. 


30 


CHAPTER  V 
REMOVING   STAINS  — GENERAL   PRINCIPLES 

STAINS  should  be  attended  to  as  soon  as  possible 
and  always  before  sending  the  article  to  the 
laundry;  because  when  stains  have  become  dried  into 
the  fabric,  or  the  piece  has  been  laundered,  they  be- 
come set  and  are  difficult  to  remove  without  damage 
to  the  fabric. 

The  actual  process  to  be  employed  will  depend,  in 
the  first  place,  on  the  kind  of  fabric  stained,  woollens 
and  fabrics  of  animal  fibres  requiring  a  different  treat- 
ment from  those  made  of  vegetable  fibres;  and,  sec- 
ondly, on  the  character  of  the  stain,  and  the  effect  of 
the  stain  upon  the  color  of  the  fabric  and  the  effect 
of  the  removal  of  the  stain.  Dyed  fabrics  also  re- 
quire special  care.  If  the  cause  of  the  stain  is  un- 
known, expert  cleaners  first  experiment  with  some 
portion  of  the  garment  that  is  not  visible  when  worn, 
in  order  to  test  the  color  with  the  usual  solvent,  or 
the  one  proposed  to  be  used. 

The  cleaning  of  white  goods  is  a  comparatively 
simple  matter.  Acids  should  not  be  used  on  white 
cottons  or  linens  except  in  unusual  cases,  when  acetic, 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

oxalic,  or  tartaric  acids  may  be  used.  Woollens, 
silks,  and  fabrics  of  animal  origin  should  be  treated 
with  the  acids  but  not  the  alkalies,  except  that  weak 
ammonia  may  be  used.  Soap  and  water  are  the  best 
cleansers  of  white  cottons,  linens,  or  fast  colors. 

For  tinted  goods  that  would  lose  color  if  treated 
with  any  of  the  acids,  try  fuller's  earth,  or  starch, 
made  into  a  paste  with  a  little  glycerin.  The  paste 
should  be  spread  upon  the  spot  and  left  for  several 
hours,  then  thoroughly  brushed  with  a  stiff  whisk 
broom.  Repeat  the  operation  if  any  trace  of  the  stain 
is  left;  or,  if  the  trace  is  very  faint,  sprinkle  with 
dry  fuller's  earth  and  let  it  lie  for  twenty-four  hours, 
after  which  time  the  stain  should  have  disappeared. 

This  paste  is  excellent  for  removing  stains  or  spots 
from  counterpanes,  pillows,  and  mattresses,  as  well 
as  from  the  most  delicate  silk  or  woollen  garments. 

A  piece  of  well-washed  cheesecloth  is  one  of  the 
best  materials  to  use  in  sponging  out  a  stain,  and 
an  old  toothbrush,  boiled  first  in  soda  water,  to 
cleanse  it,  serves  as  a  useful  scrubbing  brush. 


CHAPTER  VI 
REMOVING  STAINS  — WHITE  GOODS 

MANY,  perhaps  most,  stains  may  be  removed  from 
"white  goods"  with  water.  Use  distilled  or  soft 
water  for  removing  spots.  Spread  the  piece  to  be 
cleaned  on  a  piece  of  glass,  a  plate,  or  a  platter;  rub 
the  spot  with  a  brush  and  soft  water  and  a  little  salt 
(or  spirit  for  colored  cottons  and  silks)  until  the  spot 
disappears,  and  then  dry  with  buckskin  to  prevent 
the  formation  of  the  ring.  Do  not  use  so  much  liquid 
as  to  make  the  operation  wet,  as  nothing  but  the 
stain  itself  should  be  touched,  and  the  drying  should 
be  made  as  rapid  as  possible. 

In  more  stubborn  cases,  the  weaker  solvents  will 
act,  except  in  extreme  instances,  when  oxalic  acid  or 
Javelle  water  must  be  resorted  to,  in  spite  of  the 
danger  of  their  injuring  the  goods. 

If  the  stain  has  been  set  by  laundering,  try  steam- 
ing the  spot  first,  by  holding  it  over  the  spout  of  a 
teakettle  filled  with  rapidly  boiling  water;  then  apply 
the  solvent  given  for  the  particular  stain  while  the 
spot  is  still  warm.  The  moist  heat  helps  to  loosen 
the  stain. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

White  goods  and  household  linens  may  be  soaked 
for  two  or  three  hours  in  weak  Javelle  water  before 
laundering  as  usual ;  this  will  cause  grime  and  stains 
to  disappear.  The  same  treatment  may  be  employed 
with  handkerchiefs,  towels,  etc.,  that  have  become 
grimy  through  improper  laundering. 

Stains  may  be  removed  from  table  linens  by  using 
borax  when  washing,  but  without  boiling  the  goods; 
bleach  out  the  spots  in  the  sun,  wetting  the  places 
occasionally  with  borax  water. 

Still  another  formula  is  to  rub  the  spot  with  a 
preparation  of  saleratus,  slacked  lime,  and  soap-suds, 
allowing  the  preparation  to  remain  on  the  stain  for 
about  two  hours ;  then  wash  and  iron. 

At  many  hospitals  bed  linens  are  washed  in  water 
containing  a  gram  of  petroleum  for  each  quart 
of  water,  added  to  the  soap  and  soda.  The  combina- 
tion cleanses  thoroughly,  does  not  affect  the  linen, 
and  the  goods  retain  their  color,  and  yet  are  thor- 
oughly disinfected. 

Bed  linens  that  have  turned  an  undesirable  color 
may  be  washed  with  soap  and  hot  water.  Then  put 
to  soak  all  night  in  cold  water  containing  a  table- 
spoonful  of  ammonia  to  each  pail  of  water;  next  day 
boil  and  blue. 

Handkerchiefs  and  towels  may  be  bleached  by 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

washing  in  the  usual  manner  and  then  letting  them 
stand  over  night  in  a  solution  of  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  cream  of  tartar  to  each  quart  of  water  used. 

Linen  that  has  become  yellow  may  be  bleached  by 
soaking  for  a  day  or  two  in  buttermilk;  then  wash 
as  usual. 

Treating  Colored  Cottons. — If  the  piece  under 
treatment  has  embroidery  on  it  or  is  made  of  a  fig- 
ured fabric  which  the  sun's  rays  may  fade,  lay  over 
the  article  a  piece  of  cloth  or  paper  in  which  has 
been  cut  a  hole  the  size  of  the  spot  to  be  removed. 
Apply  the  solvent  through  the  hole;  lay  the  piece 
in  the  sun,  covered  except  for  the  spot,  and  keep  the 
spot  moist  until  the  stain  disappears. 

Ammonia  may  be  used  to  counteract  acids  in  the 
same  way.  Use  the  clear  liquid  and  rinse  with  water ; 
keep  blotting  paper  or  absorbent  cotton  underneath 
the  spot  so  that  the,  liquid  will  not  spread  into  the 
rest  of  the  fabric  and  attack  the  colors. 


35 


CHAPTER  VII 
REMOVING  STAINS  — SPECIAL  APPLICATIONS 

ACID  Stains. — Use  ammonia  on  fast  colors  (ex- 
cept blue),  which  may  be  treated  at  once.  In 
rubbing  stains  with  ammonia,  use  a  piece  of  flannel 
and  rub  gently.  Colors  can  be  restored  by  applying 
chloroform ;  black  by  dipping  in  a  weak  solution  of 
baking  soda,  which  is  good  also  for  shades  of  yellow. 

Blood  Stains. — (a)  If  fresh,  soak  in  cold  salt  water 
until  the  stain  turns  brown;  then  wash  in  lukewarm 
(not  hot)  water  with  plenty  of  soap ;  afterwards  boil. 

(b)  Or,  wet  with  kerosene. 

(c)  Or,   soak   for  a  few   hours  in  cold  water  to 
which  a  piece  of  washing  soda  has  been  added ;  then 
wash  and  rub  through  clean  water.     Wash  and  boil. 
If  then  the  stain  is  not  all  gone,  bleach  in  the  open 
air,  which  will  oxidize  the  remaining  color. 

(d)  If  the  stain  is  of  long  standing,  soak  the  spot 
repeatedly  with  chloroform  or  peroxide  of  hydrogen, 
working  in  the  open  air  or  at  an  open  window. 

(e)  If  the  stain  is  on  thick  goods,  such  as  ticking, 
use  a  paste,  as  stiff  as  possible,  made  of  raw  starch 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

and  tepid  water,  with  only  enough  water  to  bind  the 
crushed  starch  together.  Spread  freely  on  the  goods ; 
leave  until  perfectly  dry;  brush  off;  repeat  if  neces- 
sary. 

(f)     If  on  silk,  use  strong  borax  water. 

Blood  stains  must  not  on  any  account  be  put  into 
hot  water  before  they  are  soaked  in  cold  water,  be- 
cause the  hot  water  hardens  the  stains  and  makes 
removal  difficult  if  not  impossible. 

Brass. — Rub  with  rancid  lard  or  olive  oil  before 
washing.  Warm  white  wine  vinegar  is  a  solvent  for 
brass  or  copper,  but  must  not  be  used  on  colored 
cloths. 

Chocolate,  Coffee,  and  Tea  Stains. — When  fresh, 
hold  over  a  bowl  and  pour  boiling  water  through; 
or  wash  with  soap  and  tepid  water. 

When  old,  there  are  many  methods,  all  to  be  used, 
however,  before  the  stain  is  set  by  boiling. 

(a)  Rub  butter  into  the  stain  and  wash  well  with 
hot  soapsuds. 

(b)  Soak    in    cold    water    and  then    spread    with 
glycerin;  leave  all  night  and  then  launder. 

(c)  If  the  stain  is  set,  cover  with  a  paste  made 
of  egg  and  glycerin;  wash  in  warm  water  and  iron 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

(while  moist)  on  the  wrong  side  with  a  moderately 
hot  iron. 

(d)  For  a  chocolate  stain,  sprinkle  with  powdered 
borax ;  then  place  stain  in  a  bowl  and  pour  on  enough 
cold  water  to  soak ;  next  spread  stain  over  a  bowl  and 
pour  a  fine  stream  of  boiling  water  on  it  from  a  suf- 
ficient height  to  strike  the  goods  with  some  force. 

(e)  If  the  stain  is  a  particularly  bad  and  obstinate 
one,  try  salts  of  lemon.     Pour  boiling  water  into  a 
bowl ;  then  over  the  top  of  the  bowl  stretch  the  stain, 
on  which  place  a  little  of  the  salts  of  lemon.     Let 
the  stain  sink  down  occasionally  into  the  bowl;  then 
draw  the  goods  tight  again  and  rub  the  salts  over  the 
stain.    The  steam  from  the  boiling  water,  as  well  as 
the  water  itself  in  combination  with  the  salts  of  lem- 
on, should  remove  a  bad  stain  of  this  character. 

(f)  Spread   the   spot  on   a  plate  »and  pour  on  a 
little  hot  oxalic  acid.    Rub  gently  with  a  soft  brush; 
when   the  stain   disappears,  rinse   in   plenty  of  cold 
water  and  then  in  ammonia  water,  to  neutralize  the 
acid   (a  tablespoonful  of  ammonia  to  two  quarts  of 
water) . 

(g)  On  woollens  and  mixed  fabrics  use  a  mixture 
of  one  part  glycerin,  nine  parts  water,  and  one-half 
part  ammonia.    Apply  with  a  brush  and  keep  the  spot 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

moist  with  the  liquid  for  twelve  hours;  then  dry  be- 
tween clean  cloths. 

(h)  On  white  woollens,  cover  with  gin;  then  rub 
with  a  piece  of  the  same  woollen. 

(i)  On  delicately  colored  and  finely  finished  silks 
use  a  mixture  of  five  parts  glycerin,  five  parts  water, 
and  one-quarter  part  ammonia.  (Test  the  color  first; 
if  it  is  affected,  omit  the  ammonia.)  Apply  with  a 
soft  brush  and  let  remain  for  six  to  eight  hours ;  then 
rub  with  a  clean  cloth.  Clean  the  spots  of  the  dry 
substance  with  a  knife,  brush  with  clean  water,  and 
dry  between  clean  cloths.  If  any  stain  then  remains, 
rub  with  dry  bread. 

The  finish  of  silk  may  be  restored  by  brushing  with 
beer  or  a  thin  solution  of  gum  arabic;  then  iron. 

Color  Stains. — An  article  that  has  been  stained  by 
color  which  has  run  out  of  another  article,  should  be 
put  as  quickly  as  possible- into  a  large  vessel  of  cold 
water,  left  for  about  twelve  hours,  then  dried  in  the 
sun. 

Yellow  spots  on  clothing,  due  to  acids,  may  be 
removed  by  applying  a  weak  solution  of  ammonia. 

Egg  Stains. — Soak  in  cold  water. 

Fly  Paper  Stains. — Sponge  off  with  benzine. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

Fruit  Stains. — The  quicker  these  are  removed  the 
better;  do  so  always  before  putting  the  fabric  into 
soapsuds,  which  will  set  the  stain.  In  general  the 
rules  given  for  chocolate,  tea,  and  coffee  stains  will 
answer  for  fruit  stains,  (a)  Stretch  the  fabric  over 
a  basin  and  pour  boiling  water,  boiling  milk,  or  even 
alcohol  (for  obstinate  stains)  on  the  spot.  If  the  stain 
has  been  fixed  by  time,  soak  the  article  in  a  weak 
solution  of  oxalic  acid,  or  wet  the  stain  with  solution 
and  steam  over  a  kettle. 

(b)  Treat  with  Javelle  water,  with  a  little  vinegar 
added. 

(c)  Hold  over  the  fumes  of  sulphur. 

(d)  Wash  in  ice  cold  water,  or  hang  out  of  doors 
in  cold  weather. 

(e)  Wash  in  soda  water  to  which  borax  and  am- 
monia have  been  added. 

(f)  Heap  salt  on  the  spot,  rub  hard,  then  rinse 
in  hot  water  in  which  considerable  borax  has  been 
dissolved. 

Immerse  woollens  in  a  weak  solution  of  sulphurous 
acid,  or  one  of  hyposulphite  of  soda;  follow  with  a 
solution  of  tartaric  acid  until  the  stain  disappears. 

Test  colored  fabrics  in  all  cases  before  cleaning; 
if  colors  will  stand  soap,  the  stain  may  be  removed 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

by  washing  in  tepid  soap-water,  or  in  a  decoction  of 
soap-root. 

Peach  stains  are  among  the  most  persistent,  (a) 
Soak  white  goods  over  night  in  water  containing  one 
tablespoonful  of  chloride  of  lime  to  each  quart  of 
water  and  wash  in  the  usual  way. 

(b)  Moisten   the   spot   well   and  rub   in   salts   of 
lemon ;  place  in  the  sunshine  and  then  wash  carefully 
with  salt  and  warm  water. 

(c)  Soak  in   camphor  for   a   while  and   wash   in 
water. 

(d)  Soak  in   sour  milk  or  buttermilk,  or  spread 
sour  milk  and  a  little  salt  on  the  stain  and  put  out 
in  the  sun. 

(e)  Use  Javelle  water  as  directed. 

Grass  Stains. — (a)  Saturate  the  spot  with  kerosene 
and  launder  as  usual. 

(b)  Treat  with  bleaching  liquid. 

(c)  Wash  in  cold  soft  water  without  soap. 

(d)  Soak  in  alcohol. 

(e)  Soak  in  strong  cream  of  tartar  water  or  cover 
the  spot  with  cream  of  tartar,  then  dip  in  cold  water 
and  rub  on  more  cream  of  tartar,  and  wash  as  usual. 
This  process  will  not  injure  delicate  wash  goods. 

(f)  If  on  delicately  colored  clothes,  make  a  paste 
of  white  soap  and  baking  soda  and   spread  on  the 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

stain  (or  spread  on  molasses)  ;  leave  for  two  or  three 
hours;  then  wash. 

(g)  Apply  ammonia  and  water  at  once  when  the 
stain  is  fresh. 

(h)  Wash  white  goods  with  naphtha  soap  and 
warm  water. 

(i)  Cover  woollens  or  silks  with  chloride  of  tin 
and  wash  at  once  in  plenty  of  water. 

Grease  Stains. — (a)  Use  the  dry  process.  Rub  in 
a  little  oleic  acid,  and  after  this  has  soaked  in,  use 
soap  and  water.  If  the  goods  will  not  stand  soap, 
use  hot  irons  and  blotting  paper,  as  well  as  benzine 
or  turpentine.  Avoid  the  ring,  or  spot,  by  following 
the  directions  previously  given,  and  by  using  the 
benzinized  magnesia  or  gelatinized  magnesia.  The 
use  of  these  two  solvents  (or  etherized  magnesia, 
made  with  ether  and  calcined  magnesia,  like  benzi- 
nized magnesia)  is  particularly  recommended  for 
grease  stains  on  silk  fabrics,  except  that  sometimes 
ether  may  act  upon  the  colors. 

(b)  Stains  of  milk  and  soup  may  be  removed  from 
white  goods  with  water  or  by  washing  in  luke-warm 
soap-water  and  rinsing.     When  the  goods  will   not 
stand  soap,  wash  in  cold  water  containing  acetic  acid. 

(c)  Very  old  grease  stains  may  be  covered  with 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

lard,  which  is  allowed  to  remain  for  half  an  hour ;  then 
wash  the  piece  in  cold  water  (no  soap)  and  follow 
with  another  washing  in  hot  water. 

(d)  Old  stains  may  be  treated  with  chloroform, 
following  with  benzinized  magnesia. 

(e)  Rub  the  spot  with  a  mixture  of  yolk  of  egg 
and  turpentine;  when  dry  scrape  off  and  wash  in  hot 
water. 

(f)  Machine  grease  may  be  removed  by  using  cold 
water,  ammonia,  and  soap.    This  will  not  cause  colors 
to  run. 

(g)  On  colored  goods  use  French  chalk,  putting 
it  over  the  spot  and  holding  over  it  a  hot  iron  to 
melt  the  grease  while  the  chalk  absorbs  it. 

(h)  Salt  dissolved  in  alcohol  will  remove  grease, 
but  it  is  not  always  quite  safe  to  use  it. 

(i)  When  the  grease  is  on  silk  or  satin,  moisten 
the  spot  and  rub  with  ether  and  chloroform;  or  yolk 
of  egg  and  chloroform; -finish  by  using  method  in 
(g)  ;  or  use  it  separately. 

(j)  For  raw  and  pongee  silks,  use  equal  parts  of 
ialcohol  and  chloroform,  with  teaspoonful  of  house- 
hold ammonia  to  each  pint  of  the  mixture.  Place  the 
spot  over  blotting  paper  and  rub  with  a  soft  cloth, 
gradually  enlarging  the  area  moistened. 

(k)  Cover  sewing  machine  oil  spots  thickly  with 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

lard ;  let  stand  long  enough  to  absorb  the  grease ;  then 
wash  in  cold  water  and  soap;  or  wash  immediately 
in  cold  soft  water  and  soap. 

(1)  Wash  greasy  spots  in  black  woollen  clothing 
in  a  solution  of  borax,  then  rinse  in  clear  water  and 
dry  in  the  sun.  This  is  the  process  to  use  on  men's 
coat  collars. 

(m)  Wagon  grease  may  be  removed  from  white 
goods  by  moistening  the  spot  with  turpentine;  then 
use  blotting  paper  over  and  under  the  spot  and  rub 
with  a  hot  iron.  Finish  by  washing  in  warm  soap- 
water. 

(n)  Coat  wagon  grease  thickly  with  moist  laundry 
soap  and  leave  for  three  hours ;  rinse  out  in  cold 
water,  or  wet  with  turpentine  and  rinse  in  cold  water. 

(o)  Wax  or  candle  grease  may  be  removed  by 
the  blotting  paper  method  in  (m). 

(p)  Remove  hair  stains  from  collars  by  rubbing 
with  a  cotton  or  flannel  cloth  moist  with  a  mixture 
of  four  parts  ammonia  and  one  part  common  salt. 

(q)  Gravy  spilled  on  linen  may  be  removed  by 
use  of  peroxide,  but  this  substance  should  be  immedi- 
ately followed  by  the  use  of  an  alkali.  If  just  remov- 
ing a  spot,  sponge  the  fabric  first  with  peroxide  until 
the  stain  has  vanished,  then  follow  with  a  solution  of 
weak  ammonia. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

(r)  Rub  axle  grease  with  lard;  let  it  stand  to 
soften ;  then  wash  out. 

(s)  Remove  cream  spots  from  linen  by  touching 
lightly  with  household  ammonia ;  then  iron  with  clean 
blotting  paper  on  each  side  of  the  spot. 

The  greasy  shine  of  coats  may  be  removed  by  rub- 
bing with  emery  paper  and  then  steaming. 

Gum  Stains. — Sponge  with  gasoline. 

Ice  Cream  Soda  Stains. — Sponge  soda  stains  with 
gasoline  or  chloroform  with  a  blotting  paper  under 
the  spot;  when  dry  sponge  with  tepid  water  and  rub 
with  a  flannel  until  dry. 

Indigo,  or  Bluing,  Stains. — Wash  in  boiling  water, 
or  boil  for  a  few  minutes. 

Ink  Stains. — As  the  various  inks  on  the  market  are 
made  of  different  ingredients  and  chemicals,  different 
agents  are  required  to  remove  stains  made  by  them. 
It  is  necessary,  therefore,  to  know  what  kind  of  ink 
was  used  before  recommending  a  solvent  for  its  re- 
moval. Soap  and  water  will  remove  some  inks,  while 
strong  chemicals  will  not  affect  others.  Attend  to 
such  stains  as  soon  as  possible  after  they  are  made. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

(a)  When  stains  are  made  with  aniline  inks,  they 
will  generally  disappear  when  washed  with  soap  and 
water  (except  in  the  case  of  silks),  or  with  a  bleach- 
ing fluid,  or  in  alcohol  and  vinegar.     In  the  case  of 
nut-gall  inks,  use  the  Javelle  water  (not  too  strong), 
letting  the  goods  remain  in  the  water  for  some  time. 
This  is  not  good  for  silks. 

(b)  Ink  stains  disappear  when  treated  with  a  few 
drops  of  oxalic  acid  and  the  spot  scrubbed  with  an 
old  but  clean  toothbrush.    Keep  blotting  paper  under 
the  spot,  and  move  it  about  frequently  so  as  to  keep 
a  ckan  piece  under  the  spot;  rinse  thoroughly  and 
dry  as  far  as  possible  with  blotting  paper. 

(c)  If  the  ink  spot  be  a  fresh  one,  dip  the  spot 
in  milk,  changing  the  milk  as  it  becomes  discolored. 
Or  soak  in  sour  milk  or  buttermilk.     If  a  dark  spot 
remains,  rinse  in  a  weak  solution  of  chloride  of  lime. 
Or  sponge  with  milk  until  the  ink  is  removed,  and 
then  use  benzine  to  remove  the  grease  of  the  milk. 
Do  not  let  the  milk  dry  in  the  goods.    This  process 
will  take  ink  spots  out  of  colored  dresses  if  treated 
while  the  spot  is  moist  and  fresh. 

(d)  ,First  wet  the  stain  with  cold  water  and  then 
pour  oxalic  acid  on  it.    Let  stand  a  few  minutes ;  then 
rinse  in  ammonia  water,  and  put  at  once  into  tepid 
water.     (This  is  for  white  goods.     If  the  acid  turns 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

the  dye  of  colored  goods  to  a  red  tinge,  restore  the 
color  with  ammonia.)  Or,  scatter  fine  tin  dust  or 
tin  shavings  over  the  spot  after  moistening  it  with 
hot  oxalic  acid;  finish  as  above. 

(e)  Dip  the  fabric  in  melted  tallow  (or  paraffin) 
and  then  wash  out  the  grease  with  soap  and  water. 

(f)  Soak  the  spot  in  a  weak  solution  of  chloride 
of  lime,  in  the  proportion  of  one  ounce  to  each  quart 
of  water. 

(g)  For  white  goods,  cover  the  spot  with  salt  and 
pour  on  lemon  juice  and  rub  between  the  hands ;  lay 
in  the  sun  until  the  spots  disappear.    As  the  moisture 
dries,   wet   again    in    the    same   way   and    repeat    as 
needed;  then  rinse  well  in  cold  water.    Or,  wet  with 
the  lemon  juice  and  pour  boiling  water  through  the 
spot.     Or,  wet  the  spot  with  lemon  juice  and  good 
hard  soap. 

(h)  Treat  ink  spots  on  cotton,  silk,  or  woollen 
fabrics  with  turpentine.  .Saturate  the  spots  and  let 
them  remain  wet  for  several  hours;  then  rub  between 
the  hands.  Neither  the  texture  nor  the  color  should 
be  injured. 

(i)  Paint  ink  stains  on  linens  with  a  solution  of 
cyanide  of  potassium,  applying  it  with  a  camel's  hair 
brush;  as  soon  as  the  stain  is  gone,  rinse  in  cold 
water,  and  launder. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

(j)  Wet  ink  spots  on  silk  with  peroxide  of  hydro- 
gen and  put  in  the  sun.  Peroxide  can  be  used  on  very 
delicate  colors. 

(k)  Wash  ink  stains  in  vinegar,  changing  the 
liquid  as  soon  as  it  becomes  discolored;  then  wash 
in  the  usual  way. 

(1)  Put  ink-stained  linens  in  a  strong  but  cold 
solution  of  borax  and  leave  for  several  hours ;  squeeze 
out  and  cover  with  fresh  solution,  leaving  for  twelve 
hours.  Rinse  several  times  in  warm  water;  powder 
the  spots  with  more  borax  and*  rub  briskly  before 
rinsing  again.  If  stain  still  remains,  pour  hot  borax 
water  through  it  and  when  linen  is  cold  wash  with 
soap. 

(m)  Put  a  hot  plate  under  the  spot  and  when  the 
spot  has  been  moistened  with  hot  water,  rub  in  salts 
of  lemon ;  rinse  in  clear  water. 

(n)  Rub  wash  goods  with  yolk  of  an  egg  before 
washing. 

(o)  When  ink  is  spilled,  no  matter  how  much,  im- 
mediately dash  on  salt.  When  saturated,  scrape  off 
and  add  more.  Continue  doing  this  until  the  ink  is 
all  absorbed.  Wash  the  place  with  warm  water. 

Hectograph  Ink. — Boil  the  stained  piece  in  strong 
cream  of  tartar  water.  Rinse  and  lay  in  the  hot  sun 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

all  day,  wetting  hourly  with  the  cream  of  tartar  water. 
Rinse  again  at  evening  and  soak  all  night  in  loppered 
milk.  Rinse  the  second  morning  and  sun  all  day. 
Then  wash  in  the  usual  way. 

India  Ink  Stains. — India  ink  may  be  removed  with 
alcohol,  in  which  it  is  soluble. 

Indelible  Ink  Stains. — Use  cyanide  of  potassium, 
oxalic  acid,  lemon  juice,  or  Javelle  water  as  described 
above.  Or,  make  a  stiff  paste  of  talcum  powder  and 
buttermilk,  cover  the  spot  and  leave  for  two  days ; 
rinse  with  pure  water.  Repeat  as  necessary. 

Printer's  Ink  Stains. — Use  ether,  turpentine  or  pure 
benzine,  or  butter.  If  the  last,  allow  it  to  remain  over 
night,  then  wash. 

To  remove  the  lettering  from  flour  bags,  soak  in 
clear  cold  water  over  night,  rub  well  until  the  starch 
is  out  of  the  cloth  and  the  print  pale;  then  put  into 
cold  suds  and  bring  to  a  boil;  rub,  rinse,  and  dry. 

Iodine  Stains. — (a)  Dip  in  strong  ammonia  water 
and  rinse  as  soon  as  the  stain  disappears. 

(b)  Soak  in  cold  water  for  half  an  hour  and  then 
cover  with  a  thick  layer  of  common  soap. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

(c)  Dip  in  sweet  milk,  leaving  the?  spot  submerged 
over  night;  then  rinse  in  fresh  milk  before  washing. 

(d)  Wash  with  alcohol  and  then  rinse  in  soap- 
water. 

(e)  Cover  with  common  baking  soda  (saleratus)  ; 
wet  with  cold  water;  rub  on  more  soda;  then  wash 
as  usual. 

Lampblack  Stains. — Wash  with  kerosene  and  wipe 
with  a  dry  cloth;  then  use  soap  and  warm  water  to 
remove  the  kerosene. 

Medicine  Stains. — (a)  Use  a  paste  of  fuller's  earth 
a-nd  ammonia ;  lay  it  on  the  spot  and  moisten  with 
more  ammonia ;  rub  well '  and  wash  in  cold  water ; 
then  in  soap  and  water  in  the  usual  way. 

(b)     Dissolve  with  alcohol. 

Mildew. — Mildew  is  a  fungus  growing  in  the  fab- 
ric's texture.  If  not  too  deeply  seated,  it  will  wash 
out  in  time ;  otherwise  it  is  difficult  to  remove.  Some- 
times it  is  caused  by  letting  articles  lie  too  long  in  a 
damp  state  before  ironing ;  or  by  putting  damp  towels 
in  the  soiled  clothes  hamper.  The  mildew  appears  in 
such  cases  not  only  upon  the  damp  articles  them- 
selves but  upon  other  articles  touched  by  them,  such 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

as  fine  handkerchiefs  and  linens,  and  even  on  the 
hamper  itself  which  becomes  infected  and  dangerous 
to  the  household  health.  Flour  of  sulphur  sprinkled 
on  the  fabrics  will  kill  the  fungus. 

(a)  Mix   soft   soap   with  two  parts  of  powdered 
starch,  one  of  salt,  and  juice  of  lemon  to  make  a 
paste;  lay  on  both  sides  of  the  material  and  let  it  lie 
on  the  grass  until  the  stain  disappears.     Or,  use  in 
the  same  way  a  paste  of  soap  and  powdered  chalk. 
Or,  make  a  paste  of  one  pint  of  soft  soap,  one  pint 
of  water,   and   teacupful   of   salt,   stirring  well;   rub 
thoroughly  into  the  fibre  of  the  cloth ;  keep  spot  damp 
until  stain  disappears. 

(b)  Soak  white  goods  first  in  clear  water  and  then 
in  water  containing  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  oxalic  acid  to  each  half-pint  of 
water. 

(c)  Use  Javelle  water,  wetting  the  stain  repeat- 
edly and  laying  out  in  the  sun. 

(d)  Soak  mildewed  linen  for  several  hours  in  but- 
termilk; then  wash  as  usual. 

(e)  Use  diluted  ammonia  on  mildewed  woollens. 

Mud  Stains. — Let  the  mud  dry  on,  then  brush  off 
with  a  stiff  brush.  If  a  stain  remains,  dip  a  piece  of 
linen  in  strong  alcohol  (or  weak  ammonia  for  black 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

goods)  and  rub  until  the  spot  disappears.  Also,  the 
stain  may  be  sponged  with  potato  water,  or  bicar- 
bonate of  soda  in  water,  or  rubbed  with  a  cut  raw 
potato.  Use  for  spots  on  silk  and  wool  as  well  as 
on  wash  goods. 

Nitric  Acid  Stains. — (a)  On  linens  use  Javelle 
water,  oxalic  acid,  or  cyanide  of  potassium,  or  apply 
lemon  juice  and  lay  out  in  the  sun  for  a  day. 

(b)  Moisten  nitric  acid  stains  on  woollens,  when 
fresh,  with  concentrated  solution  of  permanganate  of 
potash  and  rinse  with  water.  Brush  old  stains  with 
nitrate  of  silver  to  blacken  them. 

Paint  Stains. — (a)  Remove  paint  stains,  when 
fresh,  with  turpentine.  Treat  old  stains  with  a  mix- 
ture of  turpentine  and  ammonia,  or  chloroform  alone, 
letting  the  liquid  soak  well  into  the  spot,  under  which 
is  placed  blotting  paper.  Sponge  with  chloroform  if 
a  ring  is  left. 

(b)  Lard  paint  on  white  fabrics;  let  it  stay  for 
a  day  or  two ;  then  wash  with  white  soap. 

(c)  Treat  paint  on   silk   with   benzine   or   ether; 
then  wash  carefully  in  soap  and  warm  water. 

(d)  Soak  varnish  stains  on  cloth  with  alcohol  and 
rub  with  a  clean  cloth.    If  the  color  is  affected,  sponge 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

with  chloroform,  unless  the  color  is  blue,  in  which 
case  use  vinegar. 

(e)  Use,  for  paint  or  varnish,  a  mixture  of  five 
parts  of  alcohol,  three  of  ammonia,  and  one-fourth 
part  of  benzine;  or  equal  parts  of  ammonia  and  tur- 
pentine; saturate  goods  and  wash  with  soapsuds. 

(f)  Cover  paint  on  cotton  or  woollen  goods  with 
olive  oil  or  butter;  then  use  chloroform. 

(g)  Boiling  water  will  remove  fresh  paint  stains 
if  used  before  the  linen  is  laundered. 

Permanganate  of  Potash  Stains. — Use  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt  and  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  apply  with  a 
piece  of  flannel ;  rub  well  until  stain  disappears. 

Perspiration  Stains. — (a)  Sponge  perspiration 
stains  on  white  woollen  or  silk  with  warm  water  and 
ammonia,  then  with  clean  water;  press  before  it  be- 
comes quite  dry. 

(b)  Use  one  part  Javelle  water  to  four  parts  of 
hot  water;  rinse  well. 

(c)  Treat  with  distilled  water  and  Castile  soap ; 
brush  the  spot  and  rinse  to  remove  soap ;  finish  by 
moistening  the  spot  with  saccharine  acid  solution  and 
wash  to  remove  the  acid.     Treat  silks  in  the  same 
way,  using  a  chlorine  instead  of  a  saccharine  acid. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

(d)  Use  a  mixture  of  one  part  of  ammonia  and 
three  parts  each  of  alcohol  and  ether. 

(e)  Clean  facings  of  garments  by  brushing  with 
benzine  and  then  washing  with  lukewarm  water  and 
ammonia. 

(f)  Soak  stain  in  cold  water,  wash  with  borax,  and 
expose  the  garment  to  sunshine. 

Perspiration  under  the  arms  is  different  from  that 
of  any  other  part  of  the  body  and  requires  an  acid, 
such  as  a  weak  solution  of  muriatic  acid. 

Rust  Stains. — Rust  spots  on  clothes  are  often  due 
to  impure  bluing,  much  of  which  contains  Prussian 
blues,  compounds  of  two  iron  salts  which  are  precipi- 
tated by  alkalies.  Before  bluing  clothes,  therefore, 
be  sure  that  all  the  soap  is  well  rinsed  out,  and  use 
plenty  of  water  in  the  bluing  tub. 

Test  all  fabrics  to  find  the  action  of  the  reagent  on 
the  'color. 

(a)  To  remove  rust  stains,  treat  like  ink  stains; 
or  they  may  be  removed  with  a  bleaching  fluid,  or 
Javelle  water,  or  with  acetic  acid  in  clean  water. 

(b)  Rub  spots  with  salts  of  lemon  and  wash;  re- 
peat if  necessary;  or  use  lemon  juice  and  salt  as  a 
substitute;  then  put  out  i^  the  sun.     Pineapple  juice 
is  said  to  be  as  good  as  lemon  juice. 

54 


CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

(c)  On  white  goods  use  half  an  ounce  of  citric 
acid  dissolved  in  two-thirds  of  a  cup  of  water;  satur- 
ate spot  and  put  out  in  the  sun. 

(d)  Use  oxalic  acid  as  directed  (p.  32) ;  rinse  in 
ammonia  water  and  then  in  clear  water. 

(e)  Hydrochloric   acid   may   be   used,   if   care   be 
taken.     Dissolve  teaspoonful  of  borax  in  a  quart  of 
water.     Spread  the  rust  spot  over  a  bowl  containing 
the  borax  water  and  apply  the  acid  to  the  spot  drop 
by  drop  until  the  stain  brightens,  then  immerse  at 
once  in  the  water.    Repeat  if  necessary. 

(f)  On  fast  colors  use  muriatic  acid  in  the  same 
way,   except  that   clear   hot   water   is   used   without 
borax;  rinse  finally  in  ammonia  water. 

(g)  Soak  linens  all  night  in  sour  milk ;  then  wash 
in  clear  water  and  lay  in  the  sun,  wetting  frequently 
with  lemon  juice. 

(h)  Rub  rust  stains  on  cloth  with  sheep  sorrel 
and  then  take  out  the  grass  stain  with  molasses  or 
alcohol. 

(i)  Use  mixture  of  benzine  and  borax  on  white 
cloth. 

(j)  Use  hot  solutions  of  tartaric  acid  or  of  oxalic 
or  citric  and  tartaric  acids. 

(k)  When  rust  stain  is  complicated  with  oils  or 

55 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

fats,  use  a  mixture  of  one  part  of  soap,  one  part  of 
glycerin,  and  three  parts  water. 

Scorch  Stains. — (a)  Soak  scorch  stains  in  luke- 
warm water;  then  wet  with  lemon  juice  and  salt,  and 
put  in  the  sun. 

(b)  Take  juice  of  two  onions  and  mix  with  two 
ounces  of  fuller's  earth,  half  an  ounce  of  white  soap 
finely  cut,  and  half  a  pint  of  vinegar ;  boil ;  when  cool 
spread  over  the  scorch  and  allow  it  to  dry  on;  then 
wash. 

(c)  When  the  scorch  is  a  simple  one,  dampen  and 
lay  in  the  sun. 

(d)  Make  a  starch  paste  and  heat  as  in  (b). 

Soot  Stains. — Rub  with  dry  salt  or  dry  cornmeal 
before  washing.  Or,  saturate  the  spot  with  ether 
and  put  a  cup  over  it  to  prevent  evaporation  until 
the  stain  disappears. 

Tar  Stains. — (a)  Rub  turpentine  well  into  dark 
materials;  then  rub  with  benzine,  or  wash  in  warm 
water. 

(b)  Cover  tar  stains  on  wash  goods  with  lard; 
and  after  several  hours,  wash. 

(c)  Use 'olive  oil  on  dress  goods;  then  wash  with 
white  soap  and  tepid  water. 

56 


CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

Urine  Stains. — Treat  with  alcohol  or  dilute  citric 
acid ;  restore  color  with  chloroform. 

Wine  Stains. — (Use  directions  for  fruit  stains.) 
(a)  As  soon  as  possible  wash  claret-stained  linens  in 
hot  soapsuds,  and  unless  the  wine  is  artificially  col- 
ored the  stains  will  disappear. 

(b)  When  a  port  wine  stain  is  made,  immediately 
throw  sherry  wine  over  it;  then  rub  with  dry,  soft 
cloths. 

(c)  Remove  vinegar  or  sour  wine  stains  with  am- 
monia water,  soda  and  water,  or  some  similar  alkaline 
reagent. 

(d)  Salts  of  ammonia  mixed  with  lime  will  take 
out  wine  stains  from  silks.     Spirits  of  turpentine  is 
equally  good. 

The  table  on  the  following  page,  given  by  both 
Hurst  and  Brannt,  will  be  found  useful  for  quick 
reference. 


57 


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58 


CHAPTER  VIII 
RENOVATING  COTTON  AND  LINEN  FABRICS 

QPOTS  on  Linen  Dresses. — Remove  tea  stains 
^  from  linen  dresses  by  covering  with  gin;  rub 
with  piece  of  same  cloth;  press  on  wrong  side  with 
moderately  hot  iron  until  dry. 

To  remove  black  spots,  or  soot,  place  the  garment 
on  several  thicknesses  of  white  cloth;  then  rub  with 
a  white  cloth  wet  with  hot  water. 

To  clean  linen  or  batiste  blouse  collars,  use  benzine 
as  for  silk  or  satin ;  no  pressing  needed. 

Restoring  Colors  of  Cotton  Fabrics. — (a)  Ammo- 
nia (or  sal  volatile)  will  restore  colors  faded  by  acids. 

(b)  Sponge    faded    fabrics    colored    with    aniline 
dyeg  with  chloroform. 

(c)  Whiten   a   faded   cotton   dress   by  boiling   in 
cream  of  tartar  water. 

(d)  Restore  faded  fabrics  by  first  cleaning  off  the 
dust  and  then  covering  with  a  layer  of  Castile  soap, 
last  of  all  rinsing  in  clear  water  and  then  in  alum 
water. 

(e)  Freshen  colors  faded  by  soap  by  a  water  bath 

59 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

in  a  wooden  vessel  containing  enough  sulphuric  acid 
to  give  the  water  a  faint  acid  flavor.  See  that  water 
and  acid  are  well  mixed. 

Bleaching. — (a)  Bleach  faded  muslins  or  linens 
with  chloride  of  lime — one  tablespoonful  to  one  quart 
of  water. 

(b)  Soak  faded  linen  gowns  or  colored  waists  for 
twelve  hours  in  a  solution  of  one  pound  of  soda  and 
one    gallon    of    hot    water,    then    boil    half    an    hour 
in  the  same  liquid.     Make  a  mixture  of  chloride  of 
lime  and  eight  times  its  bulk  of  water,  and  let  it  stand 
in  a  stone  jar  for  three  days,  stirring  it  often  in  the 
meantime.     When  settled,  draw  off  the  clear  liquid 
and  put  into  a  porcelain  kettle.    Wring  out  the  fabric 
upon  taking  it  from  the  soda  solution  and  let  it  steep 
in   the    chloride   solution    for   thirty-six   hours;   then 
wash,  dry,  and  press. 

(c)  Use  turpentine  on  collars  or  other  white  arti- 
cles that  have  turned  yellow.     Dissolve  one  part  tur- 
pentine in  three  parts  strong  ammonia;  put  a  table- 
spoonful  of  this  in  the  last  rinse  water;  immerse  the 
article  and  put  in  the  open  air  to  dry. 

(d)  Whiten   clothes   by   using  kerosene — a  table- 
spoonful  to  each  gallon  of  water.     If  the  garment  is 
much  soiled  use  equal  parts  of  kerosene,  clear  lime 

60 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

water,  and  turpentine,  shaken  until  creamy.  Use  one 
cupful  to  a  boilerful  of  clothes  and  keep  on  fire  for 
half  an  hour.  The  emulsion  is  invaluable  for  whiten- 
ing workmen's  heavy  jumpers,  shirts,  etc. 

Ginghams,  To  Freshen. — Remove  spots  on  ging- 
hams by  wetting  with  milk  and  covering  with  salt  ;v 
leave  for  an  hour  or  so;  then  rinse  in  several  changes 
of  water. 

Organdie,  To  Dry-clean. — Lay  each  breadth  in  turn 
smoothly  upon  a  table  covered  with  a  clean  white 
cloth  and  rub  both  sides  with  a  mixture  of^  starch 
and  borax,  or  with  talcum  powder,  using  a  tooth  or 
nail  brush ;  rub  into  every  thread  and  leave  the  pow- 
der for  twenty-four  hours ;  then  shake  out  well  in  the 
open  air.  Cover  with  a  damp  cloth  and  press.  Treat 
light  wool  stuffs  in  the  same  way,  using  block  mag- 
nesia instead  of  the  starch. 

Organdie,  To  Wash. — Soak  in  water  for  a  few  hours ; 
then  soap  all  over  with  white  soap;  then  put  into  a 
clean  pillow-slip  and  boil  for  twenty  minutes;  then 
hang  each  garment  by  the  belt  on  a  low  line  and  draw 
gently  through  the  hands  from  top  to  bottom  (do  not 
squeeze  or  wring).  Use  very  weak  starch  water  and 

61 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

hang  out  to  dry,  shaking  frequently  to  prevent  the 
folds  from  sticking  together. 

Blue  Duck,  To  Clean. — Dip  in  cold  water  contain- 
ing ox  gall  in  proportion  of  tablespoonful  to  gallon 
of  water.  Let  the  garment  get  almost  dry ;  then  wash 
quickly  in  tepid  water  and  borax  soap;  rinse,  dry  in 
the  shade,  and  iron  while  still  damp. 

Blouses,  To  Freshen. — Put  the  perspiration-stained 
part  in  strong  soda  water  for  a  few  minutes;  wash 
and  rinse  well  in  clean  hot  water  before  soaping  the 
material.  Iron  with  moderately  hot  iron. 

White  Vests,  To  Clean. — Use  block  magnesia,  rub- 
bing it  in  well  and  freely.  Put  the  vest  in  a  drawer 
for  several  days;  then  beat  and  brush. 

Crepe,  To  Renovate. — Remove  from  the  dress  and 
sponge  with  beer  or  dilute  ammonia.  Remove  beer 
odor  by  placing  the  cloth  while  damp  before  a  brisk 
fire. 

Plush  Pile,  To  Raise. — Sponge  with  chloroform. 

Sateen,  To  Impart  Gloss  To. — To  make  sateen  glos- 
sy after  washing  put  a  little  borax  in  the  last  rinse 
water;  iron. 

62 


CHAPTER  IX 
CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  WOOLLENS 

SOME  advise  that  woollen  fabrics  stained  with  inks 
can  be  best  cleaned  by  professionals,  which  is 
perhaps  true ;  but  this  book  is  designed  to  help  those 
who  are  not  able  to  avail  themselves  of  a  profes- 
sional's services.  Read  the  introductory  remarks  and 
the  chapter  on  cleaning  compounds,  or  solvents. 
What  follows  is  for  specific  cases. 

Grease. — First  cover  the  spot  with  wheat,  buck- 
wheat, or  rye  flour,  or  corn  starch,  and  let  it  absorb 
the  grease;  brush  off  and  apply  fresh  flour  until  the 
grease  is  absorbed.  Absorbent  cotton  will  do  this 
if  applied  at  once.  Do  not  put  hot  water  or  any 
kind  of  water  on  woollens  that  have  liquid  grease 
spilled  on  them. 

For  removing  mineral  oil  or  wax  spots,  which  are 
very  hard  to  eradicate,  especially  when  they  have  pen- 
etrated deeply  into  the  fabric,  aniline  is  recommend- 
ed. Use  the  following  mixture:  Aniline,  one  part; 
soap,  one  part;  water,  nineteen  parts.  Soap,  and 
sponge  with  clean  water. 

63 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Whenever  a  spot  appears  on  woollen  goods,  from 
the  most  delicate  shades  to  black,  place  the  article 
on  a  table,  and  with  a  rubber  sponge  rub  the  wrong 
way  of  the  nap,  cleaning  the  sponge  on  a  cloth  after 
each  stroke.  (These  sponges  may  be  bought  at  a 
department  store  for  ten  cents  or  thereabouts.) 

Flannels. — To  remove  stains  from  flannel,  use  equal 
parts  of  glycerin  and  yolk  of  egg.  Spread  this  mjx- 
ture  on  the  stain,  leave  for  half  an  hour;  then  wash 
the  article  as  usual,  using  a  batter  made  of  boiled 
soap.  Use  rainwater,  if  possible. 

To  whiten 'flannel  that  has  become  yellow  with  age 
and  to  restore  it  to  its  original  whiteness,  use  (a)  a 
solution  of  one  and  one-half  pounds  of  white  Mar- 
seilles soap  in  fifty  pounds  of  soft  water,  to  which 
is  added  two-thirds  of  an  ounce  of  aqua  ammonia, 
and  the  whole  thoroughly  mixed.  The  flannel  is  to  be 
immersed  in  this  solution  and  well  stirred  around,  and 
afterwards  washed  off  in  clear  water.  The  same  re- 
sult may  be  obtained  still  more  quickly  (b)  by  im- 
mersing the  flannel  for  an  hour  in  a  dilute  solution 
of  acid  sulphate  of  soda,  and  then  stirring  in  dilute 
hydrochloric  acid  in  the  proportion  of  one  part  of 
acid  to  fifty  of  water.  The  vessel  is  then  to  be  cov- 
ered over  and  allowed  to  remain  for  a  quarter  of  an 

64 


CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

hour,  when  the  articles  are  to  be  removed  and  thor- 
oughly washed. 

Dry-cleaning. — (a)  To  dry-clean  light  cloth  gar- 
ments, use  fuller's  earth,  pipe  clay,  or  magnesia;  rub 
it  all  over  the  garment;  then  carefully  fold  the  gar- 
ment, and  lay  away  for  a  few  days.  Then  take  it  out 
and  brush  well.  Any  spots  which  may  remain  will 
probably  disappear  if  rubbed  with  a  bit  of  flannel 
moistened  with  alcohol  or  benzine. 

(b)  Use  whiting  and  oatmeal  in  place  of  pipe  clay, 
rubbing  the  mixture  into  the  garment  evenly  with  a 
clean  flannel.     Press  on  the  wrong  side  with  a  warm 
iron. 

(c)  Clean    summer    shawls,    white    sweaters,     or 
crocheted  articles  in  the  same  way  with  a  mixture  of 
magnesia  and  flour. 

Woollen  Blouse. — To  clean  a  white  flannel  blouse 
make  soap  jelly  and  dissolve  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
it  in  half  a  gallon  of  warm  water.  Add  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  cloudy  ammonia  and  put  the  blouse  in  this, 
letting  it  soak  for  about  ten  minutes.  Wash  the 
blouse  in  the  usual  way,  taking  care  to  rub  the  parts 
that  are  most  soiled,  using  no  soap.  Then  wring  out; 
rinse  in  clean  tepid  water,  to  which  ammonia  has 

65 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

been  added  in  the  same  proportion  as  the  lather. 
Put  through  wringer,  fold  and  wring  out  again  and 
repeat;  then  hang  out. 

(d)  To  freshen  shabby  dark  dresses,  sponge  with 
water  in  which  young  ivy  leaves  have  been  steeped. 

(e)  To    restore  faded    and  discolored    materials, 
pack  between  layers  of  tissue  paper  and  put  away 
in  a  dark  closet  or  chest. 

Bedford  Cord. — To  clean  Bedford  cord  garments, 
cover  with  flour  and  dry  salt  in  equal  parts  or  with 
two  parts  of  pulverized  starch  and  one  part  of  borax. 
Scrub  with  this  as  with  suds,  rubbing  between  the 
hands.  Then  cover  with  buckwheat  flour  or  clean 
meal  and  leave  for  two  days,  covered  to  keep  out 
the  dust.  Then  shake  out  and  brush.  Other  kinds 
of  light  wool  fabrics  may  be  cleaned  in  the  same 
way. 

Renovating. — (a)  To  renovate  a  black  dress  or 
coat  which  has  worn  glossy,  sponge  with  equal  parts 
of  ink  and  strong  tea. 

(b)  To  freshen  black  suits  or  dresses,  sponge  on 
the  wrong  side  all  over  with  a  mixture  of  one  part 
of  alcohol  to  three  parts  of  water ;  press  on  same  side 
while  still  damp. 

66 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

(c)  Rub  black  cloth  with  a  solution  made  of  one- 
half  pound  bruised  galls,  one  pound  logwood,  three- 
quarters  pound  green  vitriol,  and  three  quarts  water, 
boiled  for  three  hours;  sponge  and  press  as  in  (b). 

Wrinkles. — To  remove  wrinkles  from  a  coat  or 
skirt,  hang  in  the  bathroom  over  the  tub ;  close  the 
windows  and  door  and  turn  on  the  hot  water;  let  it 
remain  there  for  two  or  three  hours,  then  hang  out 
in  the  fresh  air.  The  same  treatment  will  remove 
the  marks  of  braid  taken  from  a  garment. 

Sponging  Liquid. — To  make  a  good  liquid  for  clean- 
ing and  sponging  woollens  and  for  washing  delicately 
colored  fabrics,  soak  grated  potatoes  in  water  in  the 
proportion  of  two  medium-sized  potatoes  to  each 
quart  of  water. 

Erasive  Fluid. — An  excellent  erasive  fluid  for  wool- 
lens :  Dissolve  half  a  bar  of  rosin  soap,  one  ounce 
of  saltpetre,  one  ounce  of  borax  to  each  gallon  of 
water.  When  cool  add  five  ounces  of  ammonia  and 
two  of  chloroform. 

Shine. — To  remove  shine  from  a  worn  black  skirt, 
have  it  redipped  by  a  dyer  or  dye  it  at  home, 

67 


CHAPTER  X 
RENOVATING  MEN'S  CLOTHING 

OATS.— (a)  To  freshen  a  black  coat,  brush  and 
clean,  with  gasoline;  then  sponge  with  a  quart 
of  coffee  containing  a  teaspoonful  of  ammonia;  or 
with  a  weak  dye  made  by  boiling  logwood  chips. 

(b)  Sponge  black  materials  all  over  with  two  quarts 
of  hot  water  and  a  pint  of  ale.  When  nearly  dry, 
iron  on  the  wrong  side. 

Trousers. — Clean  with  pipe  clay  as  previously  di- 
rected. To  press  use  an  ironing  board ;  stretch  seams 
evenly  to  prevent  bagging  at  the  knees.  Use  one 
and  a  half  yards  of  cheap  white  duck  for  a  press  cloth ; 
dampen  this  cloth  and  press  with  hot  iron  until  dry. 

Removing  Shine. — (a)  Get  emery  cloth  from  the 
druggist.  Rub  shiny  spots  gently  with  this,  and  then 
go  over  them  with  a  warm  silk  handkerchief. 

(b)  Have  the  tailor  "damp-rag"  the  whole  suit. 

(c)  Rub  smooth-faced  cloths  with  a  piece  of  warm 
soft  silk. 

(d)  Rub  with  a  piece  of  flannel  dipped  in   tur- 
pentine. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

(e)  Sponge  with  a  solution  of  common  washing 
blue  and  water;  press  while  still  damp  under  a  thin 
cloth. 

Collars. — (a)  To  clean  coat  collars  use  a  mixture 
of  one  pint  of  benzine,  one-half  dram  of  chloroform, 
and  one  dram  of  alcohol.  Apply  with  a  soft  rag. 

(b)  Rub  collar  with  cloth  dipped  in  ammonia. 

(c)  Clean   velvet  coat  collar   with   ammonia  and 
hot  water;  let  it  dry,  then  sponge  with  alcohol. 

(d)  Use  ammonia  and  salt  enough  to  make  a  soft 
mixture;  employ  as  a  cleaner. 

Nap. — To  raise  the  nap  on  cloth,  soak  in  cold  wa- 
ter for  half  an  hour,  then  put  on  a  board  and  rub 
the  threadbare  parts  with  emery  cloth. 


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CHAPTER  XI 
CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  CARPETS 

THE   general   rules   for  cleaning   woollen   fabrics 
answer  for  ordinary  spots  and  stains  on  carpets. 
The  size  and  other  characteristics  of  carpets,  however, 
call  for  some  special  suggestions  as  follows: 

Carpet  Cleaning  Compounds. — (a)  Shave  half  a 
pound  of  soap  and  boil  in  a  quart  of  water  until  dis- 
solved ;  then  add  a  gallon  of  hot  water  and  one  ounce 
of  salts  of  tartar ;  mix  thoroughly.  Application :  Use 
a  stiff  brush  and  scrub  the  carpet  with  the  mixture, 
which  should  lather  freely  and  clean  the  carpet 
without  making  it  very  damp ;  clean  a  breadth,  wipe 
it  hard  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  cold  water.  (If 
there  is  much  green  in  the  carpet,  put  a  cup  of  vin- 
egar into  the  cold  water.  This  quantity  will  clean  a 
large  carpet.) 

(b)  Dissolve  four  ounces  of  good  white  soap  in 
four  ounces  of  boiling  water;  when  cool  add  five 
ounces  of  ammonia,  two  and  one-half  ounces  of  alco- 
hol, two  and  one-half  ounces  of  glycerin,  and  two 
ounces  of  ether  or  chloroform ;  bottle  and  cork  tight- 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

ly.  Application:  To  clean  a  carpet  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  to  a  pail  of  tepid  water  and  wipe  the  carpet  with 
it;  follow  with  clean  water.  Two  tablespoonfuls  to 
a  pint  of  water  will  remove  obstinate  stains. 

(c)  Three   gallons   of  water,   two   bars   of  white 
soap,  five  cents'  worth  of  borax,  five  cents'  worth  of 
saltpetre,  one-half  pint  of  ammonia.    Heat  the  water ; 
shave  the   soap   fine;  add  borax  and  saltpetre;  boil 
until  everything  has  dissolved;  when  it  has  ceased 
boiling  add  the  ammonia,  and  use  the  liquid  as  warm 
as  one  can  bear  the  hand  in  it.    Application :   With  a 
soft  scrubbing  brush  clean  a  small  space  that  can  be 
covered  equally  and  scrub  just  as  one  would  a  bare- 
floor;  use  about  one-half  of  a  bucketful  of  water  at 
a  time,  so  that  the  water  is  always  clean  and  hot.  Take 
the  wooden  edge  of  the  brush  or  the  back  of  a  knife 
to  scrape  up  what  water  is  left  on  the  surface. 

(d)  Boil  together  until  dissolved  eight  ounces  of 
borax,  eight  ounces  of  washing  soda,  and  three  pounds 
of  white  soap  in  four  gallons  of  water ;  when  ready  to 
use,  add  two  gallons  of  water,  four  ounces  of  alcohol, 
and  two  ounces  of  ammonia  to  one-half  of  the  mix- 
ture as  first  prepared.    Application :     After  it  is  thus 
diluted,  wipe  the  carpet  over  with  this,  using  a  scrub 
brush  on  stains  and  very  dirty  spots ;  afterward  wipe 
over  with  a  clean  cloth  wrung  out  of  clean  water. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

(e)  Make  a  suds  of  good  white  soap  and  hot  wa- 
ter, and  add  fuller's  earth  to  this  until  the  consistency 
of  thin  cream  is  secured.     Application :    Have  plenty 
of  clean  drying  cloth,  a  small  scrubbing  brush,  a  large 
sponge,  and  a  pail  of  fresh  water.     Put  some  of  the 
cleaning  mixture  in  a  bowl  and  dip  a  brush  in  it; 
brush   a   small   piece   of  the  carpet  with  this;   then 
wash  with  the  sponge  and  cold  water ;  dry  as  much  as 
possible  with  the  sponge,  and  finally  rub  with  dry 
cloths.     Continue  this  till  you  are  sure  that  all  the 
carpet  is  clean ;  then  let  it  dry. 

(f)  Take  a  twelve-gallon  cask  and  put  in  about 
three  gallons  of  lukewarm  water,  then  pour  in  one- 
half  pint  aqua  ammonia.     Take  a  kettle  with  about 
two  quarts  of  water  and  put  in  six  ounces  of  pulver- 
ized soaptree  bark  and  boil  about  twenty  minutes, 
then  strain  in  the  barrel.     Shave  five  large  bars  of 
pure  soap  in  a  kettle  with  one  gallon  of  water  and 
boil  until  dissolved.    Then  add  one  pound  pulverized 
borax  and  boil  about  ten  minutes,  stirring  continually, 
pour  the  contents   into  the  barrel,  and  fill  up  with 
lukewarm  water  to  make  twelve  gallons.     Let  stand 
until  cold.    Use  as  in  (a)  or  (e). 

(g)  Use  ball  of  carpet  soap  or  ordinary  ox  gall 
soap.    Application :  Take  two  old  towels,  one  dry  and 
one  wet,  and  a  pail  of  warm  water.     Wring  out  a 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

towel  in  the  warm  water ;  dampen  the  carpet  with  it, 
but  do  not  make  it  too  wet;  put  the  soap  over  the 
damp  surface  and  scrub  it  with  a  stiff  scrubbing 
brush  until  a  thick  lather  covers  the  carpet ;  wash  off 
this  lather,  changing  water  frequently,  and  dry  the 
carpet  with  the  dry  towel.  Each  section  of  the  car- 
pet must  be  cleaned  in  this  way  and  dried  as  thor- 
oughly as  the  worker  can  do  it  with  old  towels;  let 
the  carpet  dry  on  the  floor.  Remove  all  grease  marks 
at  first  before  cleaning  a  carpet  in  this  way. 

(h)  Steep  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  smoking  to- 
bacco in  a  gallon  of  water  for  twelve  hours,  strain, 
and  add  to  the  water  three  tablespoonfuls  of  am- 
monia. Application :  Wring  out  a  clean  cloth  wet  in 
this  liquid  and  go  over  the  carpet  with  it.  The 
tobacco  restores  and  brightens  the  colors. 

Renovating  and  Freshening  Carpets. — (a)  A  sim- 
ple process  is  to  sprinkle  salt  over  the  carpet  and 
follow  by  careful  sweeping.  (Spots  and  stains  should 
be  first  removed.) 

(b)  After  careful  sweeping,  wipe  the  carpet  over 
with  vinegar  and  water  in  the  proportion  of  a  tea- 
cupful  to  a  pail  of  water.     Do  not  use  carpet  until 
it  is  dry. 

(c)  Wipe  carpet  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  warm 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

water  and  ammonia  and  kerosene,  using  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  ammonia  and  one  tablespoonful  of  kero- 
sene to  one  gallon  of  water.  Change  water  frequently. 

(d)  Wipe   carpet  with   a   cloth   wrung  out   of  a 
solution  of  alum  water.     (Brightens  the  colors.) 

(e)  Sweep  with  a  broom  dipped  in  hot  water  con- 
taining a  little  turpentine. 

(f)  Wipe  carpet  with  a  solution  of  one  part  ox 
gall  and  two  parts  water.    (Brightens  the  colors.) 

(g)  Wipe  carefully  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  salt 
water.     (Removes  dust  and  brightens  colors.) 

(h)  Wipe  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  a  solution  of 
half  a  pail  of  tepid  water,  one-half  cup  of  camphor, 
and  three  to  four  tablespoonfuls  of  ammonia.  Use 
only  on  dark  carpets  which  need  brightening. 

(i)  Scatter  grated  Irish  potato  over  the  carpet; 
then  sweep  carefully.  Will  revive  colors  without  in- 
jury to  delicate  shades. 

(j)  Scatter  dampened  bran  or  cornmeal  freely 
over  over  the  carpet ;  then  sweep  carefully. 

Musty  Carpet. — Spread  upon  turf  or  clean,  damp 
earth,  and  leave  out  all  day.  Next  day  lay  it 'right 
side  up  upon  the  grass  or  floor;  cover  thickly  with 
fine,  dry  salt  and  leave  in  the  hottest  sun  for  six  or 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

eight  hours;  sweep,  once  against  the  nap  and  once 
with  it. 

Spots  and  Stains  of  Whitewash. — Remove  by  put- 
ting a  few  drops  of  carbonate  of  ammonia  in  warm 
water,  and  applying  carefully. 

Sticky   Spots. — Remove   with   salt  and   alcohol. 

Oil. — Remove  by  absorption  process,  using  fuller's 
earth,  blotting  paper,  salt,  etc. 

Soot. — Remove  by  covering  with  salt ;  let  it  remain 
some  minutes;  then  sweep. 

Ink. — If  wet,  pick  up  as  much  as  possible  with  blot- 
ting paper;  then  remove  with  milk,  or  common  sand 
soap.  Or,  first  pour  clean  cold  water  on  the  spot,  if 
it  is  a  fresh  one,  taking  it  up  again  with  a  spoon, 
which  is  pressed  down  into  the  pile  of  the  carpet. 
Lay  a  cloth  around  the  'spot  so  it  will  not  spread ; 
then  apply  a  weak  solution  of  oxalic  acid,  sponging 
it  up  quickly.  If  the  color  is  altered  apply  ammonia 
water. 

Dyeing  Carpet. — (a)  Touch  up  all  the  faded  flow- 
ers with  diamond  dye  of  the  desired  color,  using  a 
small  paint  brush. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

(b)  After  the  carpet  is  cleaned  and  laid,  wipe  off 
with  vinegar-water  and  let  dry.  Then  prepare  any 
good  dye,  using  the  predominating  color  of  the  car- 
pet, and  apply  with  a  wide  paint  brush.  All  colors 
and  shades  will  not  absorb  the  dye  to  the  same  ex- 
tent, and  the  design  will  remain  and  all  worn  places 
will  be  colored. 

MATTINGS 

Matting  should  be  wiped  with  a  cloth  dampened 
in  salt  water,  which  strengthens  the  fibre  and  pre- 
vents its  turning  yellow.  If  white  or  cream-colored 
matting  has  become  faded,  wash  with  strong  soda 
water,  which  will  turn  it  to  a  deeper  shade  of  creamy 
yellow  but  will  make  it  all  of  one  color.  If  the  fig- 
ures of  the  pattern  have  become  dingy,  brighten  by 
rubbing.  Dye  with  an  old  tooth  brush,  following  the 
lines  of  the  figure.  Never  use  soap  on  matting. 

Grease  Spots. — Cover  grease  spots  on  matting  with 
French  chalk  and  benzine ;  after  the  benzine  has  evap- 
orated, brush  off  the  chalk. 

Rust. — Use  muriatic  acid,  a  hot  iron,  dry  cloths, 
an  old  nail  brush,  a  sponge,  a  bowlful  of  boiling 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

water,  and  two  pailfuls  of  clear  cold  water.  Applica- 
tion :  Cover  the  spot  with  paper  and  place  the  hot 
iron  on  this ;  when  the  matting  is  hot,  dip  a  glass  rod 
or  stick  in  the  acid  and  touch  the  stain  which  will 
instantly  turn  to  a  bright  yellow;  wash  quickly  with 
the  boiling  water,  using  the  nail  brush ;  then  with  the 
clear  water,  using  the  sponge;  wipe  dry.  The  work 
must  be  done  quickly  and  all  the  acid  removed  from 
the  matting  by  repeated  sponging  with  clean  water. 

LINOLEUM 

Linoleum  or  oilcloth  should  never  be  washed  with 
hot  water.  Make  a  suds  of  soft  lukewarm  water 
by  adding  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered  borax  and 
one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  soap,  shaved  fine  and  dis- 
solved in  hot  water,  to  every  bucketful.  Application : 
Wash  linoleum  or  oilcloth,  changing  the  water  fre- 
quently. After  having  been  all  over  the  surface,  dry- 
ing as  the  work  proceeds,  go  over  it  a  second  time 
with  a  mixture  of  half  skimmed  milk  and  half  water. 
Soap  and  soda  or  ammonia  will  destroy  linoleum  or  oil- 
cloth by  removing  the  oil. 

Treatments. — (a)  New  oilcloth  that  is  losing  its 
lustre  may  be  made  to  look  fresh  and  to  last  longer 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

by  treating  it  to  a  thin  coat  of  glue.  Application : 
The  oilcloth  should  be  washed  thoroughly  with  a 
weak  Soap-powder  suds ;  then  apply  the  glue  water  at 
night  with  a  flannel  cloth,  and  it  will  be  dry  and  hard 
by  morning. 

(b)  Apply  good  furniture  polish  twice  a  year. 

(c)  Rub  paraffin  oil  well  into  linoleum  when  new- 
ly laid  to  preserve  and  lengthen  the  wear. 

(d)  Polish  with  beeswax  and  turpentine.     Appli- 
cation :     Make  the  polish  by  dissolving  an  ounce  of 
beeswax  in  a  pint  of  turpentine.     Apply  with   one 
piece  of  flannel  and  polish  with  another.     To  get  a 
good  effect  quickly  be  careful  always   to   use  clean 
cloths. 

Cleaning. — (a)     Remove   all    dust;   then   rub   with 
a  flannel  sprinkled  with  paraffin. 

(b)  Wipe  with  skimmed  milk. 

(c)  Break  two  eggs  into  a  basin  and  beat  suffi- 
ciently to  mix  them  partially;  then  add  one  quart  of 
lukewarm   water.     Application:     Dip   a   soft   flannej 
cloth  in  this  mixture  and  go  over  the  linoleum ;  wring 
out  the  cloth  and  wipe  a  second  time,  using  care  not 
to  step  where  this  has  been  done;  then  leave   it  to 
dry  in  the  air,  and  do  not  use  until  the  floor  is  thor- 
oughly dry. 

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RUGS 

Treat  rugs  like  carpets,  as  a  general  proposition; 
but  be  careful  in  beating  them  not  to  break  the  warp ; 
and  do  not  shake  then;  by  the  end.  Ordinarily  light 
rugs  may  be  satisfactorily  cleaned  by  sprinkling  with 
cornstarch,  fuller's  earth,  etc.,  mixed  with  one-sixth 
its  bulk  of  prepared  chalk.  Let  the  starch  remain 
for  several  hours ;  brush  it  out,  and  hang  the  rug  in 
the  air  for  several  hours  before  putting  down. 

ORIENTAL  RUGS 

Oriental  rugs  that  are  valuable  must  be  treated 
"as  gently  as  a  thoroughbred  race-horse."  "Country 
Life  in  America"  says :  "The  broom  should  be  used 
daily  on  them  and  they  should  be  swept  with  the 
nap.  Every  third  day,  after  the  sweeping,  sawdust 
that  has  been  slightly  moistened  should  be  sprinkled 
over  the  rug,  which  should  then  be  gone  over  with 
a  carpet  sweeper.  Be  careful  to  have  the  sweeping 
precede  the  application  of  sawdust,  as  otherwise  the 
moisture  will  turn  some  of  the  dust  into  mud  that, 
caking  itself  in  the  threads,  will  ravel  the  fibres. 
Once  a  week  rugs  should  be  taken  out  on  the  lawn, 
spread  surface  down,  and  then  gently  tapped — gently, 
mind — with  a  flat  rattan  beater." 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Cleaning. — First  remove  all  the  dust  (by  vacuum 
process  when  possible)  ;  then,  says  "Country  Life  in 
America,"  "the  rug  is  spread  on  its  face,  liquid  olive 
oil  soap  is  poured  over  the  back,  and  it  is  gently 
rubbed  with  a  brush  until  a  fine  lather  forms.  Then 
the  same  thing  is  done  to  the  face  of  the  rug.  After 
that,  warm  water  is  played  over  the  rug  until  it  re- 
vives. After  the  hot  shower,  of  course,  a  cold  shower 
follows  and  for  about  an  hour  on  a  concrete  floor 
that  slants  slightly  cold  water  runs  over  the  surface 
of  the  rug  from  sprinklers.  Then,  in  order  to  take 
the  water  out,  the  rug  is  rolled  with  the  nap,  a  light 
wooden  roller  being  the  tool  employed.  After  this 
the  rug  is  spread  out  on  the  roof,  face  up,  for  three 
clear  days  and  nights.  When  the  sunlight  has  re- 
moved the  last  vestige  of  moisture  the  rug  is  rolled 
up  with  the  nap  and  is  ready  for  use  or  storage." 
When  grease  spots  appear,  send  the  rug  to  a  cleaner, 
because  it  is  difficult  to  remove  spots  at  home  with- 
out leaving  the  "ring." 

To  Size  Rugs  or  Carpets. — Take  one  gallon  of  hot 
water  and  one  quart  of  powdered  or  dry  glue;  keep 
on  the  stove  until  the  glue  is  all  dissolved.  Appli- 
cation: Let  the  rugs  or  carpets  be  previously 
stretched  and  tacked  wrong  side  up  on  the  floor. 

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With  a  cheap  whitewash  brush  go  all  over  the  rug 
or  carpet,  taking  care  to  wet  every  inch,  especially 
the  edges.  (Put  paper  under  the  edges  to  keep  the 
glue  from  getting  on  the  floor.)  The  solution  will 
not  dampen  nor  gather  dust  and  the  sizing  may  be 
repeated  ad  lib.,  and  rugs  will  last  must  longer  if  it 
is  done  often.  Strips  in  halls  may  be  done  three  of 
four  times  a  year.  Use  more  glue  if  it  is  wished  to 
have  them  very  stiff.  This  preparation  should  be 
used  hot,  or  quite  warm,  and  the  rug  be  let  alone 
until  dry.  It  will  not  injure  fine  rugs  or  carpets,  nor 
will  it  injure  waxed  or  polished  floors.  Do  not  fold 
rugs  or  carpets ;  roll  them. 

FUR  RUGS 

See  chapter  XIV  on  "Cleaning  Furs"  for  directions 
for  cleaning. 

FIBRE  RUGS 

Clean  colored  fibre  rugs  with  a  solution  of  water, 
borax,  and  white  soap ;  rinse.  Add  five  cents'  worth  of 
muriatic  acid  to  the  rinse  water  to  restore  blue  color. 


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CHAPTER  XII 
CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  CURTAINS 

WHITE  Cotton. — When  blackened  by  coal  smoke, 
soak  in  cold  water  from  twelve  to  twenty- 
four  hours,  changing  the  water  several  times,  or  using 
it  only  as  long  as  it  will  float  grime  on  the  surface. 
Then  put  through  two  hot  soap  baths,  squeezing  them 
instead  of  rubbing;  rinse,  and  put  in  a  warm  bath 
for  half  an  hour,  adding  Javelle  water  to  make  the 
bath  water  slippery.  Cleaners  then  give  them  a  sul- 
phuric bath  and  finish  (except  when  colored)  by  rins- 
ing in  blue  water.  Starch  (adding  a  little  talcum 
powder  stirred  into  the  cold  starch  and  boiling  slight- 
ly only),  squeeze  out,  and  put  on  stretchers.  Do  not 
soak  the  dirty  curtains  in  hot  water  to  begin  with,  as 
that  will  turn  them  gray,  and  they  cannot  afterwards 
be  bleached. 

Lace  Curtains. — To  clean  lace  curtains  at  home, 
make  a  suds  of  white  Castile  soap  and  a  little  borax. 
First  soak  as  above.  If  the  curtains  are  very  dirty, 
scrub  them  gently  in  the  suds  with  a  soft  scrubbing 
brush ;  do  not  rub  between  the  hands,  as  this  is  likely 

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to  make  holes.  When  quite  clean  rinse  in  clear  wa- 
ter to  which  a  little  borax  has  been  added;  squeeze 
between  the  hands  and  dry  on  a  sheet. 

Ecru  Net. — Lay  the  curtains  taut  upon  a  sheet, 
pinning  down  the  edges,  and  rub  into  them  with  a 
complexion  brush  all  the  flour,  mixed  with  one-tenth 
the  quantity  of  borax,  that  the  mesh  will  hold.  Treat 
every  thread  carefully;  blow  off  the  loose  flour  and 
rub  in  a  fresh  supply.  Leave  this  on  two  days,  cov- 
ering to  keep  out  the  dust.  Unpin  the  curtains  and 
hang  in  the  wind  and  brush  out  the  powder.  Col- 
ored applique  work  may  then  be  gone  over  with  a 
cloth  slightly  dampened  with  household  ammonia. 

Bleaching. — When  curtains  have  a  dirty  gray  color, 
brighten  by  rinsing  in  warm  water  containing  dia- 
mine  yellow  and  auramine  II ;  or  in  a  cold  bath  con- 
taining a  few  drops  of  nitrate  of  iron. 

To  Tint  Lace. — To  tint  lace  curtains  to  a  cream 
color,  add  an  ounce  of  yellow  ochre  to  two  ounces 
of  starch  and  mix  in  the  usual  way  with  boiling 
water.  Soak  each  pair  together  to  insure  their  be- 
ing of  the  same  shade. 

Colored  Curtains. — Colored  curtains  are  hard  to 
handle  at  home.  The  colors  should  be  well  under- 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

stood.  If  colors  are  fast,  rinse  first  in  cold  water, 
then  in  one  or  two  lukewarm  soap  waters;  rinse, 
using  in  the  last  water  some  acetic  acid  to  brighten 
the  colors.  Be  careful  to  keep  the  goods  in  motion 
to  prevent  blending  of  other  colors  with  the  white. 
Goods  with  fugitive  colors  should  be  sent  to  the 
cleaner. 

SHADES 

Linen  Blinds. — (a)  Clean  linen  blinds  by  laying 
flat  and  rubbing  with  powdered  bath  brick. 

(b)  When  merely  dusty  on  the  surface  lay  flat 
and  rub  in  hot  cornmeal,  with  a  circular  motion  of 
the  hand;  then  rub  gently  with  a  soft  dry  brush  to 
remove  both  meal  and  dust. 

Washing  Linen  Blinds. — Use  bran  for  brown  hoi- 
lands  but  no  soda  or  soap,  except  that  curd  soap 
may  be  used  when  blinds  are  very  dirty.  Boil  two 
handfuls  of  bran  in  a  quart  of  water  and  strain  through 
muslin.  Boil  a  second  time  to  make  a  supply  of  bran 
water  for  rinsing.  Cool  the  bran  water  by  adding  a 
quart  of  cold  water.  Wash  the  blinds ;  when  dirt  is  re- 
moved, rinse  first  in  bran  water  and  then  in  clear 
water;  put  through  a  wringer,  and  iron,  while  still 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

damp,  on  the  wrong  side.  Bran  water  washing  is  best 
for  cretonne,  colored  muslin,  and  silk  or  cotton  em- 
broidery. 

Stiffen. — To  stiffen  blinds,  or  shades,  stretch  them 
tightly  on  the  floor  and  sponge  with  bran  water 
(two  quarts  bran  to  six  quarts  water),  boiled  and 
strained;  apply  to  the  shades  on  both  sides  with  a 
clean  sponge  and  iron  while  damp. 

VENETIAN  BLINDS 

Take  the  laths  out  of  the  tape-ladders  and  wash  in 
warm  water  with  a  little  soap  and  ammonia;  sponge 
with  clean  water  and  dry  with  a  soft  cloth.  Clean  the 
tapes  with  pipe  clay,  etc. 

TAPESTRY,  ETC. 

Tapestry. — To  clean :  Take  four  ounces  of  soap  to 
a  quart  of  water  and  boil  until  it  becomes  a  jelly.  Add 
half  of  this  to  each  of  two  tubs  of  hot  water  and  a 
handful  of  bran  to  prevent  the  colors  running.  When 
the  tapestry  has  been  washed  alternately  in  the  two 
tubs,  rinse  out  in  water  and  vinegar  to  dry.  Stiffen 
with  a  thin  boiled  starch  and  iron  quickly  with  a  very 
hot  iron. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Faded  Hangings. — Restore  by  beating  out  the  dust ; 
then  apply  a  strong  lather  of  Castile  soap  with  a,  brush. 
Wash  off  soap  with  clear  water  and  afterwards  with 
alum  water. 

Cretonne  Chair  Covers. — When  they  cannot  be  re- 
moved, rub  well  with  a  cloth  wrung  out  of  cold  water 
and  ammonia  (two  teaspoonfuls  to  a  pint).  Keep  the 
rubbing  surface  of  the  cloth  clean  and  have  plenty  of 
clean  water.  Do  not  use  soap.  The  water  is  better 
when  it  has  been  boiled  with  some  bran  (in  a  bag) 
in  it. 


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CHAPTER  XIII 
CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  FEATHERS 

OSTRICH  Feathers,  Washing.— Make  a  weak 
suds  of  soap  and  hand-warm  water  with  a  little 
ammonia  (for  pale  colors,  very  weak  and  cold  soap 
water).  Dip  the  feather  into  the  suds  and  then  draw 
it  through  the  hands  a  few  times  until  it  appears  clean. 
Under  no  circumstances  allow  the  feather  to  remain 
in  the  soapy  water — just  dip  it  into  it  and  then  draw 
through  the  hand  to  squeeze  out  the  soap  and  water 
before  dipping  it  again.  If  very  dirty,  use  two  suds. 
When  this  cleaning  process  is  over,  rinse  through 
several  bowls  of  clean,  cold  water,  with  a  little  blu- 
ing, the  rinsing  being  done  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  washing.  After  thorough  rinsing  draw  the  feather 
through  the  hand  until  it  "is  nearly  dry,  then  place  it 
on  the  lap  and  slap  it  with  the  hand  to  make  it  fluffy. 
The  fluffing  of  the  feather  may  require  a  little  prac- 
tice, and  it  is  well  to  practise  on  a  poor  feather  before 
trying  to  handle  a  more  expensive  one.  When  the 
feather  is  almost  dry,  handle  it  where  there  is  a  draft 
and  shake  at  intervals.  Before  it  is  quite  dry,  shake 
it  gently  before  a  gas  stove  fire  where  the  heat  is  gen- 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

tie  and  not  hot  enough  to  make  it  brittle;  or  it  may 
be  partially  dried  by  steam  over  a  pan  of  quickly 
boiling  water  and  dried  as  directed.  When  finished 
the  feather  should  be  wrapped  in  tissue  paper  and  put 
in  a  cool  place. 

Dry-cleaning  by  Gasoline  Method. — Dip  the  feather 
in  perfectly  clean  benzine,  sousing  it  up  and  down — 
gently  so  as  not  to  break  it — until  clean ;  dry  in  the 
wind.  Potato  starch  is  sometimes  used  with  the  ben- 
zine, and  shaken  out  when  the  benzine  has  evapo- 
rated. 

Magnesia  Method. — Embed  a  white  feather  in  flour, 
powdered  pipe  clay,  or  magnesia  and  leave  it  for  twen- 
ty-four hours;  then  shake  out  the  substance.  Repeat 

as  needed,  rubbing  gently  the  more  soiled  spots. 

• 

Curling. — 'Curling  is  really  an  art  in  itself,  that  calls 
for  practice  to  insure  the  best  results,  (a)  Use  an 
ivory  paper  knife.  Each  frond  should  be  picked  up 
separately  and  with  a  quick  but  gentle-  turn  of  the 
wrist  given  the  necessary  curl,  continuing  until  all 
the  plume  has  been  curled. 

(b)  Use  a  curling  iron,  not  too  warm,  and  take 
care  to  have  the  sheath  side  of  the  curler  on  the  up- 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

per  side,  or  the  tips  will  be  reversed.  Take  only  a 
little  at  a  time,  working  toward  the  stem  and  gently 
pulling  apart  with  a  hairpin.  A  feather  curled  by 
this  process  will  stay  in  curl  until  worn  on  a  damp 
day.  . 

(c)  Start  a  quick  fire  of  fine  kindling,  and  when 
the  wood  is  in  a  good  blaze,  throw  say  two  good  table- 
spoonfuls  of  salt  over  the  fire,  and  as  soon  as  the  blaze 
dies  down,  hold  the  feather  over,  the  coals,  turning 
constantly  to  prevent  singeing. 

•  Redressing. — To  redress  a  feather,  pass  several,  or 
even  many,  times  through  a  liquid  potato  or  sago  starch 
and  then  press  evenly  between  sheets  of  blotting  or 
filter  paper  or  linen  cloths.  The  hairs  of  the  feather 
may  be  loosened  up  by  passing  through  the  hands  or 
between  the  thumb  and  finger  and  rubbed  in  the  starch. 
The  superfluous  starch  may  be  removed  by  using  a  soft 
brush.  Dry  in  the  air  and  curl. 

Coloring. — (a)  Brown,  black,  and  most  other  dark 
colored  feathers  may  be  brightened  by  dipping  in  a 
warm  decoction  of  logwood,  followed  by  rinsing. 

(b)  To  neutralize  the  yellow  tone  caused  by  the 
cleaning  of  white  plumes,  immerse  for  ten  to  fifteen 
minutes  in  a  weak,  cold  solution  of  oxalate  of  potash  or 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

ammonia,  then  rinse  in  a  weak  solution  of  Prussian 
or  Paris  blue. 

Feather  Boas. — To  clean  by  wet  process,  use  a  large 
basin  of  the  suds  of  white  soap  (warm)  ;  immerse 
the  boa  and  after  soaking  for  a  few  minutes,  work 
it  gently  with  the  fingers;  rinse  in  several  lukewarm 
waters  and  shake  out;  hang  in  the  air  to  dry. 

By  dry  process,  heat  equal  quantities  of  flour  and 
bran ;  rub  the  boa  thoroughly  in  the  mixture,  or  put  all 
in  a  clean  bag  and  rub  the  whole.  Shake  out  and  if 
necessary  brush  with  a  clean  soft  brush. 

Curling. — Finish  a  feather  boa  as  a  plume  is  fin- 
ished, by  steaming  over  quickly  boiling  water;  then 
dry  over  a  fire  or  dry  heat. 

Eiderdown. — Eiderdown  flannel  or  swan's-down 
may  be  laundered  with  white  soap  and  warm  water; 
work  quickly  with  frequent  changes  of  water  (with 
a  little  baking  soda  in  the  second  water)  and  rub- 
bing with  hands  only.  Dry  in  the  open  air.  To  re- 
store fluffiness  to  an  eiderdown  quilt,  hang  in  the  sun- 
shine for  several  hours. 

Wings  and  Quills. — Put  in  a  box  with  cornmeal 
and  shake  them  gently ;  brush  off  the  meal  with  a  soft 
brush. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Bleaching. — (a)  To  bleach  feathers,  immerse  in 
naphtha,  rinse  in  a  second  bath,  and  dry  in  the  open 
air.  Then  place  in  a  closed  box  and  expose  to  strong 
sulphur  fumes.  Have  the  box  as  tight  as  possible. 

(b)  Steep  the  feather  over  night  in  peroxide  of 
hydrogen  and  a  little  ammonia.  On  the  following  day 
heat  to  about  150°  F.  and  steep  in  this  warm  bath; 
rinse. 

Renovating  Feathers. — The  disagreeable  odor  some- 
times given  off  by  bed  or  pillow  feathers  may  be  re- 
moved by  renovation.  When  the  professional  feather 
renovator  is  not  accessible,  one  of  the  following  proc- 
esses may  be  relied  upon : 

(a)  Choose  a  bright  day  when  a  good  breeze  is 
blowing.  Have  ready  a  bag  of  cheesecloth  or  thin 
flour  sacking,  closed  except  where  the  feathers  are  put 
into  it.  Rub  the  entire  inside  surface  of  this  bag 
with  a  good  quality  of  bar  soap.  Shake  the  feathers 
into  the  soaped  bag.  This  is  best  done  by  ripping  a 
hole  in  the  pillow  the  size  of  the  hole  in  the  bag  and 
sewing  the  two  edges  together.  After  shaking  the 
feathers  into  the  bag,  rip  the  two  apart  and  sew  up 
the  bag.  The  bag  should  not  be  over  two-thirds  full, 
or  the  feathers  will  not  have  room  to  expand.  Fill 
a  wash  boiler  with  cold  water;  immerse  the  bag  of 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

feathers  and  bring  slowly  to  a,  boil.  Lift  and  turn 
the  bag  frequently  with  the  clothes  stick.  Boil  for 
two  or  three  minutes;  remove,  and  rinse  thoroughly 
in  plenty  of  cold  water.  Drain  and  squeeze  out  all 
the  water  possible ;  shake  and  hang  in  the  wind  in  the 
shade  to  dry,  which  will  require  about  two  days.  Do 
not  try  to  shake  off  the  down  clinging  to  the  inside 
of  the  ticking;  immerse  right  side  out  in  water  and 
the  down  will  roll  up  in  balls  and  can  be  removed 
easily. 

(b)  Bring  water  to  a  boil  in  a  pan  or  boiler,  half 
full ;  place  the  feather  pillow  on  top  and  keep  it  there 
until  all  is  thoroughly  steamed ;  then  hang  out  to  dry, 
shaking  and  beating  the  feathers  from  time  to  time. 

(c)  Ammonia  is  sometimes  put  in  the  water  in 
which  feathers  are  boiled  as  in  (a). 


CHAPTER  XIV 
CLEANING  FURS 

CLEANING  furs  is  by  no  means  so  difficult  as  it 
might  seem.  Hot  bran,  sand,  and  cedar,  ma- 
hogany or  any  hardwood  sawdust  will  cleanse  any 
dark  fur,  provided  there  are  no  spots  or  foreign  mat- 
ter on  it;  while  plaster  of  Paris,  fuller's  earth,  corn- 
starch,  flour,  cornmeal,  and  powdered  magnesia  and 
salt  are  admirable  for  cleansing  ermine  and  other  white 
furs.  In  all  cases  first  beat  out  the  dust. 

(a)  Rub  the  material  selected  well  into  the  fur, 
applying  it  with  the  hands;  then  take  a  light  rattan 
whip  or  stick  and  gently  beat  out  the  material  from 
the  skin  side. 

(b)  For  sealskin  and  mink  use  hot  sand  and  saw- 
dust in  a  place  of  a  powder. 

(c)  Furs  that  become  greasy  may  be  rubbed  with 
benzine,  turpentine,  or  spirits  of  ether,  before  clean- 
ing with  warm  bran.     Apply  the  liquid  with  cotton 
batting. 

Should  there  be  any  lack  of  brilliancy  in  the  fur, 
comb  it  out  with  a  fine  steel  comb  made  for  the  pur- 
pose. If  more  gloss  is  desired,  brush  sealskin  and 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

mink  with  a  brush  slightly  wet,  and  hang  in  a  cool, 
dry  room  for  a  couple  of  days  to  dry.  If  the  fur  should 
appear  stiff,  beat  slightly  with  a  rattan. 

(d)  Clean  with  benzine ;  dry  by  rubbing  in  potato 
starch  until  the  hair  is  dry ;  then  heat  gently  on  the  skin 
side  to  liven  up  the  hair,  which  should  be  combed. 

(e)  Wet  cleaning  is  used  for  furs  that  are  badly 
soiled;  but  the  process  is  not  to  be  recommended  for 
home  use. 

Freshening  Furs. — Freshen  furs  that  have  been 
rubbed  or  crushed  from  being  frequently  placed  in 
their  boxes  by  brushing  with' a  clothes  brush  that  has 
been  dipped  in  cold  water  and  then  shaken  as  dry  as 
possible.  Brush  the  wrong  Way,  then  shake  thorough- 
ly and  dry  in  the  open  air,  beating  occasionally  with 
a  stick.  Some  kinds  of  fur  need  to  be  combed  dry, 
but  it  must  be  carefully  done,  or  the  hair  will  be 
combed  out  in  the  process. 

Fur  Rugs. — The  following  process  is  suggested  for 
washing  a  sheepskin  or  white  fur  rug:  Beat  out  the 
dust ;  tack,  skin  side  down,  to  a  barrel ;  sprinkle  wash- 
ing powder  over  the  rug;  then  rub  the  fur  gently  but 
thoroughly  with  a  brush  dipped  in  clear  water;  rinse 
by  pouring  water  over  the  surface  of  the  rug,  the  last 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

rinsing  containing  a  very  little  bluing.  When  soap  is 
all  removed,  leave  the  rug  on  the  barrel  to  dry ;  while 
still  damp,  comb  the  fur  with  a  curry-comb  or  steel 
fur  brush.  The  skin  side  must  not  be  allowed  to  get 
wet,  or  the  rug  will  be  spoiled.  When  the  skin  has 
become  hard,  mix  three  tablespoonfuls  of  castor  oil, 
one  of  glycerin,  and  one  of  turpentine;  rub  well  into 
the  skin  and  let  it  remain  there  for  a  week;  then  rub 
with  a  smooth  stone  or  wood. 


95 


CHAPTER  XV 
CLEANING  GLOVES 

CLEANING  gloves  is  an  important  task  in  many 
households,  and  with  rare  exceptions  is  a  work 
that  can  be  done  as  well  at  home  as  at  the  cleaner's. 
The  following  directions  will  be  found  sufficient  for 
all  practical  purposes. 

White  Kids. — (a)  Brush  the  gloves,  after  soaking 
in  benzine,  with  a  hard  brush,  dipping  it  alternately 
in  alcohol  and  zine  white,  which  makes  a  paste  which 
penetrates  the  leather  and  removes  dirt  and  perspi- 
ration. Rub  until  soft  all  spots  made  hard  by  perspi- 
ration, then  rinse  in  clean  benzine.  The  professional 
cleaners  then  finish  the  operation  by  giving  the  leather 
a  bath  in  a  fat  solution,  made  by  dissolving  two  ounces 
of  lanoline  and  four  ounces  of  vaseline  in  one  and  one- 
fourth  quarts  of  benzine,  diluting  this  mixture  with 
ten  times  its  volume  of  benzine.  Put  in  a  tightly 
closed  vessel  and  soak  the  gloves  for  half  an  hour; 
then  squeeze  out  the  liquid  and  brush  with  talcum 
powder.  If  there  are  still  spots,  brush  with  zinc  white 
on  the  glove  tree.  Then  put  on  the  powder  with  a 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

linen  rag  before  the  glove  is  dry  and  polish  with  a- 
linen  cloth. 

(b)  To   clean   gloves   with   benzine,   use  a   small 
basin  and  only  a  small  quantity  of  liquid.  Have  wooden 
fingers  or  use  the  handle  of  a  wooden  spoon.     Then 
brush  each  finger  separately  with  benzine  and  a  white 
flannel  cloth,  using  also  a  little  white  soap  if  the  gloves 
are  very  much  soiled.     After  the  fingers  are  cleaned, 
place  the  glove  in  the  benzine  and  brush  with  soft 
brush  and  soap;  rinse  in  clean  benzine  and  dry  on  a 
clean  cloth.    One  secret  of  good  glove  cleaning  is  thor- 
ough rinsing  in  benzine  after  the  cleaning  is  finished. 
Pull  the  gloves  into  shape  and  rub  with  French  chalk 
after  they  are  dry. 

(c)  ,Fill  a  wide-mouthed  vessel  with  benzine  and 
put  the  gloves  into  it  and  close.    Leave  for  forty-eight 
hours,  shaking  once  or  twice  in  the  interval.    No  rub- 
bing is  necessary.    Take  out  the  gloves  and  dry  in  a 
thick,  clean  cloth  and  wipe  with  clean  flannel;  hang 
in  the  shade  or  over  a  register  or  steam  radiator  to 
dry.     (The  muddy  liquid  can  be  allowed  to  settle,  and 
the  clean  liquid  drawn  off  to  use  again.) 

(d)  When  soiled  by  perspiration,  clean  gloves  with 
a   mixture  of   five   parts  of   benzine   and   two   parts 
of  ether  and  chloroform.    When  cleaning  on  the  hand 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

with  benzine  or  the  like  put  on  one  glove  at  a  time  and 
work  from  the  wrist  downward. 

(e)  When  only  slightly  soiled,  clean  gloves  by  rub- 
bing them  on  the  hands,  like  washing,  with  cream  of 
tartar,  fuller's  earth,  pipe  clay,  French  chalk,  corn- 
meal,   fine  cracker   crumbs,   or   dried   bread   crumbs, 
changing  the  material  often.     Use  benzine  to  remove 
spots  that  do  not  disappear  in  the  process ;  or  rub 
them  off  with  a  piece  of  oiled  silk  wound  tightly  around 
the  finger.    To  keep  clean,  rub  off  with  bread  crumbs 
after  each  using. 

(f)  Wipe  light  colors  on  the  hand  with  a  flannel 
dipped  in  skim  milk  and  rubbed  on  white  soap.  Go 
over  several  times,  and  lay  between  towels  to  dry. 

(g)  Put  a  little  new  milk  in  one  saucer  and  a  piece 
of  brown  soap  in  another;  have  ready  a  clean  cloth 
or  towel  folded  three  or  four  times.     On  the  cloth 
spread  out  the  glove  smoothly  and  neatly.     Take  a 
piece  of  flannel,  dip  it  in  the  milk,  then  rub  off  a  good 
quantity  of  soap  with  the  wetted  flannel,  and  com- 
mence to  rub  the  glove  downward  toward  the  fingers, 
holding  it  firmly  with  the  left  hand.      Continue  this 
process  until  the  glove,  if  white,  looks  a  dingy  yel- 
low, though1  clean;  if  colored,  till  it  looks  dark  and 
spoiled.     Lay  it  to  dry.     Old  gloves  will  soon  look 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

nearly  new;  they  will  be  soft,  glossy,  smooth,  well 
shaped,  and  elastic. 

Dark  Colored  Kids.— (a)  Wash  in  half  a  pint  of 
skim  milk  containing  about  ten  drops  of  ammonia; 
rinse  in  clean  benzine. 

(b)  Soak  for  one-half  hour  in  one  part  of  sweet  oil 
to  twelve  parts  of  benzine,  and  rub  dry.  (Will  make 
the  leather  dry  and  brittle.) 

Stains  on  Kid  Gloves. — Water  stains  are  removed 
from  white  and  light  colored  kids  by  soaking  in  ben- 
zine soap  solution  and  vigorous  brushing.  If  the  ben- 
zine dissolves  the  color  of  colored  kids,  dyeing  is  the 
only  remedy.  Rust  stains  are  removed  by  dampening 
the  spot  with  water  and  touching  it  with  a  cloth  dipped 
in^weak  hydrochloric  acid;  when  the  spot  disappears 
rinse  and  dry  quickly  in  a  clean  white  cloth.  Remove 
ink  stains  in  the  same  way% 

Washable  Kids. — Wash  on  the  hands  in  suds  of 
pure  white  or  Castile  soap  and  cold  water.  Rinse  in 
pure  water  and  dry  between  towels. 

Renovating  Dark  Kids. — Freshen  by  washing  in 
thick  flaxseed  water.  Blacken  tips  by  painting  with 
equal  parts  of  ink  and  olive  oil. 

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Chamois  Skin. — Clean  chamois  gloves  by  wet  or  dry 
powder  processes ;  do  not  use  benzine. 

(a)  Apply    fuller's    earth    and    powdered    alum, 
French  chalk,  magnesia,  cornmeal,  etc.,  and  rub   in 
until  the  dirt  disappears. 

(b)  Put  in  a  bath  of  eight  parts  water  and  two 
parts  ammonia  for  forty-eight  hours ;  rinse  in  cold  soft 
water  and  dry  in  the  air. 

(c)  Washing:     Make  a  lather  of  warm  water  and 
white  soap;  put  on  the  gloves  and  wash  as  gently  as 
possible  by  rubbing  the  hands  together,  cleaning  the 
finger  tips  in  the  palm  of  the  opposite  hand.     Rinse 
thoroughly,  then  wash  through  tepid  water  containing 
a  little  soap.     Dry  with  soft,  warm  towels,  patting, 
not  rubbing,  the  hands ;  slip  off  carefully  and  dry  in 
the  air  as  slowly  as  possible;  when  dry,  pat  between 
the  hands  to  soften  them.     Before  putting  on  again, 
put  plenty  of  talcum  powder  into  them  and,  if  white, 
cover  them  outside  liberally  with  the  same  powder, 
which  tends   to   soften   them.     Remember  that  wet 
chamois  is  delicate  and  easily  torn. 

(d)  Some  cleaners  use  a  glove  stretcher  instead 
of  the  hands  when  washing  these  gloves.    Squeeze  the 
gloves  carefully  through  two  ample  baths  of  Castile 
soapsuds,  to  each   quart  of  which  a  teaspoonful   of 
olive  oil  has  been  added.     Rinse  in  two  lukewarm 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

water  baths;  squeeze  out  gently  and  dry  between 
towels.  To  shape  them,  pull  out  the  tips  so  that  the 
fingers  shall  be  widest  at  the  tips;  and  to  prevent 
baggy  tips  use  the  glove  stretcher,  inserting  it  gently 
in  each  finger  about  half  way  and  spreading  it  gently ; 
then  push  the  closed  stretcher  to  the  tip,  working  it  a 
little  to  make  the  tip  taper.  Shape  the  palm  with  the 
same  instrument. 

White  Wash  Gloves. — When  washing  white  wash 
gloves  with  black  points,  moisten  slightly  with  salt 
and  rub  well.  This  will  prevent  the  color  from  run- 
ning. 

Silk  Mitts. — (a)  Wash  plain  colored  silk  mitts  in 
benzine;  or  leave  in  the  liquid  for  an  hour;  squeeze 
out  and  dry  in  the  air. 

(b)  Use  magnesia  well  rubbed  in  and  place  be- 
tween layers  of  paper  for  a  few  days. 

To  Tint  White  Gloves. — White  gloves  may  be  tinted 
by  dipping  in  strong  coffee ;  or  given  a  cream  or  light 
yellow  tint  by  immersing  in  a  decoction  of  onion  skins 
boiled  in  water.  Dry  on  the  hands. 

Buckskin. — Soak  in  lukewarm  water  for  half  an  hour 
and  wash  in  warm  (not  hot)  soapy  water ;  rinse  thor- 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

oughly,  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  glycerin  to  each 
quart  of  water  for  the  last  rinsing;  dry  in  a  linen 
cloth. 

Gauntlets. — Clean  with  benzine  or  soap  if  very 
dirty;  when  dry  rub  with  talcum.  If  tinted,  make  a 
thin  paste  of  pure  white  lead  and  gum  arabic  dissolved 
in  water  (one  part  of  each)  and  put  on  with  a  brush. 
When  dry  polish  with  a  clean  white  cloth. 

Suggestions. — Tight  gloves  will  go  on  more  easily 
if  warmed  before  putting  on.  Black  gloves  are  gen- 
erally less  elastic  than  light  colors.  Dressed  kid 
usually  retains  its  freshness  longer  than  the  suede. 
Wear  a  new  glove  half  an  hour  before  bending  the 
fingers. 


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CHAPTER  XVI 
CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  HATS 

/CHIFFON. — (a)  Freshen  by  rubbing  in  powdered 
^-^  magnesia  as  firmly  as  possible  without  in- 
juring the  material;  brush  out  with  a  soft  brush;  re- 
peat as  necessary. 

(b)  Take  hat  to  pieces;  clean  ribbons  with  ben- 
zine; put  chiffon  into  a  wide-mouthed  vessel  contain- 
ing lukewarm  suds;  shake  well;  rinse  in  clear  water 
(repeat  this  process  if  necessary)  and  stiffen  with 
gum  arabic.  Roll  in  a  clean  cloth  and  iron  when  slight- 
ly dry. 

Felt. — Light  Colors. — (a)  Use  a  paste  of  pow- 
dered magnesia  and  water ;  paint  the  hat  well  and  rub 
off  with  a  stiff  brush  when  thoroughly  dry.  If  very 
dirty,  use  turpentine  instead  of  water. 

(b)  Rub  in  Frejich  chalk,  fuller's  earth,  meal,  etc.  ; 
set  away  in  a  box  over  night,  and  brush  out  the  ma- 
terial. Rub  soiled  places  with  a  woollen  rag  dipped 
in  a  mixture  of  alcohol  and  salt;  dry  with  a  clean 
linen  cloth. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

Renovating  a  Felt  Hat. — Sponge  with  a  little  liquid 
ammonia  in  a  small  basin  of  water.  Do  not  allow  the 
hat  to  get  really  wet.  Hang  in  warm  place  and  brush 
occasionally  as  it  dries. 

Velvet. — When  spotted  by  rain  or  snow,  steam  the 
whole  surface  to  make  the  shade  even.  The  velvet 
will  look  darker  at  first,  but  will  become  lighter  in  the 
open  air.  Do  not  brush  before  steaming. 

Leghorn. — (a)  Soak  one  cup  of  white  cornmeal 
in  benzine ;  rub  on  well  with  a  clean  soft  cloth ;  brush 
off  when  dry.  • 

(b)  Mix  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered  sulphur  into 
the  juice  of  one  lemon,  or  equal  parts  of  sulphur, 
lemon  juice,  and  water ;  brush  into  the  hat  with  a  stiff 
brush ;  when  clean  rinse  with  running  water  until  the 
sulphur  is  gone;  dry  in  the  air  in  a  shady  place.  Re- 
new the  gloss  of  the  hat  by  brushing  it  over  with 
white  of  egg.  A  perfectly  clean  flat  surface  should 
be  used,  to  prevent  the  brim  from  curling;  and  when 
the  operation  is  finished  cover  the  brim  with  paper 
and  press  under  weights  until  dry. 

Panama. — Rub  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  peroxide,  re- 
peating until  clean.  (See  also  Leghorn.) 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Straw. — (a)  Cover  with  damp  meal,  fuller's  earth, 
etc. 

(b)  Treat  with  peroxide.     (See  Panama.) 

(c)  Dissolve  salts  of  lemon  in  boiling  water ;  clean 
with  this  liquid  and  a  brush.  Rinse  in  cold  water  and 
dry  in  the  air. 

(d)  Scrub  with  strong  borax  water;  rinse,  etc. 

(e)  Scrub  with  a  five  per  cent  solution  of  citric 
acid ;  rinse,  etc. 

(f)  Scrub  with  a  mixture  of  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
oxalic  acid  and  a  pint  of  warm  water. 

(g)  Sponge  black  hats  with  alcohol,  wiping  with 
black  crepe.     If  rusty,  blacken  with  shoe  polish. 

As  the  scrubbing  proceeds,  wipe  off  the  dirty  water 
with  a  cloth  so  that  it  cannot  soak  into  the  straw. 
(Weight  down  the  brim  to  keep  it  from  curling.  Fin- 
ish with  white  of  an  egg. 

Renovating  Straw  Hats: — (a)  Blacken  black  straws 
with  shoe  blacking  or  blacking  made  for  hats,  to  be 
bought  at  the  general  stores. 

(b)  Freshen  navy  blues  and  other  colors  by  put- 
ting on  aniline  dyes  with  a  stiff  brush.     Remove  the 
trimmings,  wet  the  straw  and  wipe  it  clean  of  dust, 
and  before  it  dries  scrub  in  the  dye. 

(c)  Dissolve  a  small  piece  of  gum  arabic  in  three 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

tablespoonfuls  of  water;  brush  the  hat  with  this  solu- 
tion; hang  in  a  cool  place  to  dry. 

(d)  Dissolve  one  ounce  of  the  desired  shade  of 
sealing  wax  in  four  ounces  of  alcohol,  first  reducing 
the  wax  to  a  powder.  First  clean  the  hat;  then  ap- 
ply the  color  with  a  flat  brush  in  the  sun.  This 
process  stiffens  the  straw.  The  mixture  is  very  in- 
flammable. 

Straw  Hat  Bleach. — Pulverize  stick  sulphur  and 
make  a  paste  with  water;  plaster  thickly  on  the  hat 
and  put  in  the  air  to  dry;  when  dry  brush  off  the 
sulphur. 

Suggestions. — For  dusting  a  felt  hat  there  is  noth- 
ing better  than  a  piece  of  chiffon  velvet.  It  is  also 
good  to  keep  the  bottom  of  a  silk  skirt  free  from 
dirt. 


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CHAPTER  XVII 
CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  LACES 

TO  wash  or  clean  lace  demands  much  care,  pa- 
tience, and  time.  Fine  laces  should  be  washed 
as  seldom  as  possible,  and  much  care  is  required  to 
prevent  breaking  the  threads.  If  the  lace  is  very  deli- 
cate, baste  it  to  a  piece  of  common  material  before 
proceeding.  While  at  work,  manipulate  the  lace  with 
the  hands,  avoiding  all  twisting,  wringing,  and  rub- 
bing. 

/  Washing. — Make  a  suds  of  warm  water  and  enough 
melted  soap  to  make  it  "soapy,"  to  which,  for  com- 
mon laces,  a  few  drops  of  ammonia  or  turpentine  may 
be  added.  Let  the  lace  soak  in  this  suds  for  ten  hours 
or  more,  then  manipulate  in  the  hands.  If  the  laces 
are  all  white,  add  a  spoonful  of  borax  to  each  two 
quarts  of  water  to  save  boiling.  Wash  in  a  second  lot 
of  the  same  sort  of  suds  and  then  rinse  in  warm  water 
until  the  water  is  clear.  (If  lace  is  to  be  tinted,  do  it 
at  this  juncture,  then  starch.)  Finish  real  lace  by 
rinsing  in  skim  milk  and  a  little  gum  water,  but  not 
in  blue  water.  If  much  discolored,  lay  in  the  sun  to 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

bleach.  Dry  between  towels  or  on  a  pad  made  of 
flannel  tacked  tightly  to  a  board,  pinning  the  lace  to 
the  flannel;  or  the  wet  lace  may  be  drawn  out  perfect- 
ly smooth,  covered  with  cheesecloth,  and  ironed  with 
a  moderately  hot  iron  until  dry.  A  final  rinsing  in 
skim  milk  gives  a  soft,  creamy  color. 

Battenberg. — (a)  Baste  between  strong  pieces  of 
muslin  and  wash  in  strong  soap-suds  and  a  little 
ammonia.  Squeeze  and  press,  but  do  not  rub ;  rinse 
twice  in  slightly  blue  water.  When  dry,  place  un- 
der a  damp  cloth  and  iron,  then  withdraw  the  bast- 
ings. 

(b)  Battenberg  and  heavy  laces,  like  Irish  crochet, 
if  very  dirty,  may  be  gently  rubbed  with  a  soft  tooth 
brush.  If  pressing  is  necessary,  lay  the  lace  wrong 
side  up  in  a  thick  pad  of  muslin  and  iron  with  a  piece 
of  muslin  between  the  lace  and  the  iron. 

Thread  Lace. — Sew  new  white  muslin  around  a  bot- 
tle or  round  piece  of  hard  wood ;  then  roll  the  lace  on 
the  bottle  smoothly  and  securely,  tacking  the  ends. 
Then  soak  in  olive  oil.  Fill  the  bottle  with  cold  water 
to  keep  it  from  bursting  and  set  upright  in  a  strong 
suds  of  cold  water  and  Castile  soap.  Fasten  the  bot- 
tle so  that  it  will  remain  upright  in  a  kettle  and  boil 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

for  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  lace  is  clean.  Rinse 
with  hot  water  and  put  in  the  sun  to  dry.  When  quite 
dry  remove  the  lace  and  lay  in  long  folds  between 
sheets  of  white  paper  and  leave  for  a  day  or  so. 

Washing  Real  Lace. — Fold  and  fasten  together  with 
a  few  stitches  and  then  sew  in  an  old  linen  bag  and  put 
in  a  bottle  of  pure  olive  oil  to  soak  for  twenty-four 
hours.  Then  boil  fifteen  minutes  in  soft  water  soap- 
suds; rinse  until  water  is  clear  and  immerse  in  thin 
and  slightly  blue  starch  water;  press  between  the 
hands  and  iron  with  a  hot  iron.  Too  frequent  wash- 
ing rots  real  laces,  which  effect  the  oil  bath  counter- 
acts. They  may  be  redressed  with  a  very  dilute  solu- 
tion of  gum  tragacanth  or  gelatine. 

Dry-cleaning  ,Laces. — Let  laces  soak  in  benzine 
for  an  hour;  then  wash  in  benzine  by  manipulating 
them  in  the  hands.  Rinse  in  clean  benzine  and  pull 
into  shape.  Dry  by  pinning  to  board;  stiffen  with 
gum  as  above. 

Powder  Cleaning  Laces. — Cover  with  magnesia ;  put 
between  clean  papers,  and  leave  for  several  days ; 
shake  out. 

Bleaching  Laces. — (a)  For  lace  yellowed  by  age 
or  very  dirty :  soak  in  the  sun  in  a  strong  solution  of 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

borax  and  water,  keeping  the  vessel  full  as  evaporation 
takes  place ;  if  water  becomes  dirty,  replace  with  clean 
solution;  turn  the  lace  frequently  to  insure  an  even 
color  to  all  of  it.  The  bleaching  may  take  several  days, 
but  must  be  stopped  when  once  the  lace  is  clean. 
When  ready,  take  out  of  solution,  fold,  press  in  folded 
towels  pinned  together,  and  leave  in  the  sun  to  dry. 
If  the  lace  while  bleaching  should  stick  to  the  towel, 
loosen  by  adding  solution— don't  try  to  force  it  loose. 

(b)  To  bleach  coffee-colored,  white,  or  cream-col- 
ored laces :  fill  a  preserve  jar  with  warm  suds  of  white 
soap  and  a  small  spoonful  of  ammonia ;  put  lace  in 
the  jar  and  set  out  in  the  sun,  changing  the  water 
daily.    After  several  days  rinse  thoroughly  in  boiling 
water.     Press  carefully;  if  frail,  baste  to  a  cloth  and 
press. 

(c)  Rub  with  lemon  juice  and  salt  and  put  in  the 
sun. 

Restoring  Lace. — To  freshen  fine  old  lace  or  needle- 
work which  has  been  crumpled  in  process  of  making, 
dissolve  a  little  gelatine  in  boiling  water  and  while 
it  is  hot  dip  the  work  into  it ;  then  spread  between  two 
pieces  of  blotting  paper;  place  the  blotting  paper  be- 
tween two  pieces  of  board,  fastened  with  a  clamp  or 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

put  under  a  weight.    After  twenty-four  hours  remove 
the  clamp  and  the  lace  will  be  straight  and  smooth. 

Tinting  Laces. — To  give  thread  lace  an  old,  soft 
look,  pass  through  water  slightly  blued  to  which  is 
added  one  drop  of  black  ink  for  every  half-pint  of 
water. 

To  get  ecru  tint,  use  tea,  coffee,  or  saffron;  make 
the  tinting  fluid  rather  strong  and  try  a  corner  of 
the  lace;  if  too  strong  reduce  with  water.  Cream 
starch  is  also  used.  Tea  is  preferred ;  tea  and  coffee 
give  a  duller  tint  than  the  cream  starch,  which  is  yel- 
low. 

Tinting  Various  Materials. — To  tint  laces,  chiffons, 
silk  or  crocheted  buttons,  feathers,  slippers,  gloves, 
etc.,  to  a  gown  shade,  use  oil  paints  in  tubes  and  ben- 
zine. The  benzine  is  placed  in  a  porcelain  bowl  and 
the  paint  is  dissolved  in  it.  Mix  the  paint  to  the  re- 
quired shade  in  a  saucer,  comparing  it  with  the  goods 
till  the  right  color  is  obtained.  When  the  exact  tint 
is  reached  mix  with  the  benzine  and  dip  the  lace  or 
whatever  is  to  be  dyed  quickly  before  the  paint  falls 
to  the  bottom.  Do  not  let  the  goods  touch  the  bot- 
tom, as  there  might  be  a  spot  of  paint  there.  A  hair- 
pin comes  in  handy  to  hold  the  edge  of  the  goods. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Shake  out  quickly  and  pin  up  to  dry.  It  is  well  to 
make  a  few  experiments  before  risking  costly  ma- 
terial, but  the  process  is  really  not  at  all  formidable. 

Washing  Black  Lace. — Dip  a  piece  of  crepe  in 
water;  squeeze  the  crepe  and  the  lace  together  until 
the  latter  is  thoroughly  damp  in  every  part;  to  dry, 
stretch  on  a  board  and  pin  out  all  the  points. 

Freshening  Black  Lace. — (a)  To  freshen  any  black 
lace  discolored  by  age  or  exposure  to  the  sun,  spread 
out  on  paper  and  brush  carefully  to  get  out  the  dust. 
If  spotted,  sponge  gently  with  cold  tea  and  then  soak 
for  at  least  half  an  hour  in  tea  prepared  as  follows : 
Put  into  a  small  lined  saucepan  one  teaspoonful  of 
gum  arabic,  one  dessertspoonful  of  dry  tea,  and  one 
pint  of  boiling  water;  simmer  slowly,  stirring  occa- 
sionally until  the  gum  is  dissolved ;  then  strain  into 
a  basin.  This  tea  will  give  a  slight  stiffness  to  the 
lace. 

(b)  Sponge  with  black  silk  dipped  in  a  solution  of 
one  teaspoonful  of  borax  in  half  a  pint  of  warm  water. 
Iron  lace,  while  still  damp,  first  covering  it  with  a 
piece  of  black  silk  or  cloth. 

(c)  Soak  rusty  black  lace  for  some  hours  in  a  so- 
lution of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a  pint  of 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

water ;  rinse  in  cold  coffee ;  iron  between  flannels  while 
still  damp. 

(d)  Wash  black  lace  in  water  to  which  a  little 
ammonia  has  been  added ;  rinse  in  cold  coffee  and  fin- 
ish as  in  (c). 

Lace  Yoke. — To  clean  a  lace  yoke  without  remov- 
ing from  the  garment,  roll  a  bath  towel  into  a  thick 
pad  and  put  it  under  the  lace ;  then  dip  a  brush  or 
cloth  in  a  good  lather  and  clean  the  lace,  which  is 
well  squeezed  meantime  in  the  fingers.  Repeat  as 
necessary,  using  clean  suds  and  a  fresh  dry  towel  to 
absorb  the  moisture. 

Freshening  Gold  Lace. — Laces  embroidered  with 
silk  and  colors,  tinsel  or  gold  and  silver  should  be 
spread  out  smoothly  on  a  clean  piece"  of  calico  and 
cleaned  carefully  with  a  soft  brush  dipped  in  spirits 
of  wine.  If  silk  lace  is  much  discolored,  it  should  be 
soaked  in  hot  milk  for  three 'hours  before  washing. 
No  starch  should  be  used  and  the  lace  must  be  kept 
very  carefully  covered  while  ironing.  Stains  on  gold 
lace  can  be  removed  by  boiling  the  lace  in  hydrochloric 
acid,  slightly  diluted  with  water.  The  acid  will  dis- 
solve and  remove  the  verdigris  and  leave  the  gold 
uninjured. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOV/ATING     AT     HOME 

Washing  Silk  and  Silver  Lace. — Soak  in  curdled 
milk  for  twenty-four  hours.  Stir  soap  shavings  into 
two  quarts  of  soft  water,  adding  a  proportionate  quan- 
tity of  honey  and  fresh  ox  gall,  beating  the  whole  for 
some  time,  adding  water  if  too  thick  so  as  to  make  a 
thin  paste.  Let  this  stand  for  twelve  hours  and  ap- 
ply to  the  wet  laces.  Professional  cleaners  then  wrap 
a  moist  cloth  around  a  mangle  roll,  and  put  on  the 
lace,  covering  it  with  another  moist  cloth,  and  man- 
gle, moistening  occasionally  with  water  and  applying 
the  paste  with  a  brush.  They  then  dissolve  gum 
arabic  in  water,  and  then  add  an  equal  quantity  of 
sugar.  When  the  water  becomes  clear,  immerse  the 
lace;  mangle  between  cloths,  and  hang  up  to  dry. — 
(Adapted  from  Brannt.) 

Washing  Gold  Lace. — (a)  Soak  over  night  in  di- 
lute vinegar  and  proceed  as  above. 

(b)  Drop  in  a  pint  of  boiling  water  containing 
a  quantity  of  white  soap  and  ammonia.  Do  not  at- 
tempt to  rub  lace,  but  rinse  it  carefully  and  pin  to  a 
towel  to  dry.  Warm  spirits  of  wine  will  remove  the 
tarnished  appearance  should  it  remain,  though  usually 
ammonia  will  remove  the  dull 'lustre,  but  it  may  in- 
jure the  color  of  a  silk  thread,  should  such  be  inter- 
woven in  the  lace. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Dry-cleaning  Gold  and  Silver  Lace. — (a)  Embroid- 
eries, fringes,  etc.,  of  gold  and  silver  lace :  Rub  the  ar- 
ticles with  pulverized  tartaric  acid,  using  cotton. 

(b)  Clean  gold  lace  on  garments  by  applying  pow- 
dered  ammonia   briskly  with  a   flannel ;  finish   by   a 
good  brushing,  or  polishing,  with  a  silk  handkerchief. 

(c)  Remove  the  lace ;  sew  it  in  a  clean  linen  cloth ; 
then  boil  in  a  quart  of  salt  water  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  soap  and  rinse  in  cold  water.     If  tarnished, 
apply  a  little  warm  spirits  of  wine  to  the  tarnished 
spots. 

Starch  for  Laces. — (a)  Mix  one  teaspoonful  of 
starch  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cold  water  and  pour 
on  this  one  pint  of  boiling  water.  Place  on  the  fire  and 
add  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  one- 
fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  gum  arabic  which  has  been 
soaked  in  one  tablespoonful  of  cold  water.  Boil  for 
five  minutes,' stirring  all -the  while.  Strain  through 
cheesecloth.  For  laces  in  which  only  a  suggestion 
of  starch  is  desired  double  the  quantity  of  water.  For 
heavy  laces  that  are  required  to  be  rather  stiff  use  only 
half  the  quantity  of  water. 

(b)  Gum  arabic  starch  is  made  by  putting  one- 
fourth  of  an  ounce  of  the  best  white  gum  arabic  in  a 
cup  or  wide-mouthed  bottle  with  one  gill  of  cold  water. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Let  it  soak  for  two  or  three  hours,  then  place  in  a 
basin  of  cold  water  and  put  on  the  fire  to  dissolve. 
Stir  frequently;  strain  through  cheesecloth.  This 
makes  a  very  stiff  starch.  For  articles  that  need  to  be 
only  slightly  stiffened  a  quart  of  water  or  even  more 
may  be  added  to  the  dissolved  gum  arabic. 

Finishing. — When  sponging  lace,  rub  from  the  sel- 
vage down  so  as  not  to  pull  it  out  of  shape. 


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CHAPTER  XVIII 

CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  LEATHERS  AND 
LEATHER  GOODS 

/CREASE  Stains.— (a)  Remove  from  leather  by 
VJ  covering  the  spots  with  a  paste  of  pipe  clay  and 
water,  letting  the  paste  remain  on  the  stains  for  twelve 
hours  or  more ;  then  brush  off  and  rub  well. 

(b)  Apply  white  of  egg  beaten  stiff. 

(c)  Apply   benzine   or  perfectly  pure  turpentine. 
Wash  the  spots  over  afterward  with  well-beaten  white 
of  an  egg  or  a  good  leather  reviver. 

Washing  Leather. — Dust  the  leather  and  wash  in 
warm  water  after  removing  the  spots ;  wipe  dry  and 
finish  with  a  black  cloth  dipped  in  beaten  white  of 
egg  mixed  with  equal  its  bulk  of  water. 

Chamois  Skins. — (a)  Wash  in  strong  suds  and 
rinse  in  lukewarm  water  containing  a  little  ammonia ; 
shake  thoroughly  and  hang  up  to  dry.  While  drying, 
change  its  position  so  that  all  four  corners  may  dry 
at  the  same  time. 

(b)  Clean  a  chamois  skin  chest  protector  that  is 
lined  with  felt,  by  the  powder  process  (French  chalk, 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

etc.),  treating  both  sides.     After  the  process,  it  may 
be  fumigated  in  sulphur. 

Embossed  Leather. — Clean  with  turpentine  applied 
with  a  soft  cloth.  Go  over  the  leather,  to  remove  the 
stiffness,  with  a  little  oil,  finishing  with  clean  cloths 
to  remove  the  oil. 

Bags. — (a)  To  clean  a  brown  leather  bag,  rub  with 
a  sponge  dipped  in  a  mixture  of  two  pints  of  best 
cream  and  one  pint  of  linseed  oil,  mixed  when  both 
are  lukewarm. 

(b)  Remove  all  dust ;  use  a  clean  flannel  rag,  slight- 
ly damp,  to  rub  on  pure  Castile  soap;  rub  until  dry 
and  then  polish. 

(c)  Apply  sweet  oil,  afterward  rubbing  the  leather 
free  from  oil  with  clean  cloths. 

(d)  Use  benzine  or  methylated  spirits,  rubbed  on 
with  soft  flannel ;  then  polish. 

(e)  Sponge  black  bags  with  a  strong,  warm  solu- 
tion of  soda ;  when  soaked,  apply  a  coat  of  black  ink 
and  let  it  dry  in ;  then  give  it  another  coat  of  ink,  and 
when  this  is  perfectly  dry,  rub  off  superfluous  ink  with 
a  damp  rag  and  finish  by  brushing  with  the  white  of 
an  egg. 

(f)  Rub  brown  seal  bags  with  banana  skin  and 
skimmed  milk;  polish. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Bags  may  be  retoned  with  a  good  quality  of  black 
or  russet  leather  polish.  White  or  light  tone  bags 
may  be  quite  successfully  cleaned  with  gasoline,  used, 
of  course,  with  necessary  precautions.  If  it  is  applied 
with  a  soft  cloth  and  evenly  rubbed  on,  the  leather 
need  not  look  streaked.  Belts  may  be  treated  in  the 
same  manner. 

Belts. — Clean  white  leather  belts  with  powdered 
borax  rubbed  in  with  a  piece  of  white  flannel. 

Morocco  Leather. — (a)  Remove  grease  stains  with 
fuller's  earth. 

(b)  Remove  ink  stains  with  sweet  spirits  of  nitre. 

(c)  Revive  lustre  by  brushing  with  white  of  an 
egg. 

Patent  Leather.*— (a)  Clean  by  rubbing  the  sur- 
face with  a  slice  of  orange ;  polish^  when  dry  with  a  soft 
dry  cloth. 

(b)  Revive  by  rubbing  a  linen  rag  soaked  in  olive 
oil  or  milk;  polish  when  dry. 

(c)  Revive  with  equal  parts  of  cream  and  linseed 
oil;  polish  when  dry. 

(d)  Revive  with  French  harness  oil  put  on  with  a 
soft  woolly  rag;  polish. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Tan  Leather. — Difficult  to  clean  so  as  to  avoid  mak- 
ing it  dark  and  streaked.  Tan  gloves  may  be  kept  in 
condition  by  rubbing  the  surface  with  a  damp  rag. 

Upholstery  Leather. — To  clean  and  '.revive:  (a) 
Wipe  until  the  dirt  is  removed  with  a  woollen  cloth 
dipped  in  very  hot  milk;  then  wipe  dry  with  a  soft 
flannel.  When  clean  go  over  the  surface  with  a  piece 
of  flannel  on  which  is  spread  a  thin  layer  of  prepared 
Wax  about  as  large  as  a  pea.  After  waxing,  go  over 
the  leather  with  a  clean  soft  flannel,  rubbing  brisk- 
ly but  not  too  hard.  To  make  the  wax,  cut  two  ounces 
of  beeswax  into  small  bits  and  put  them  in  a  bowl, 
placing  the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  on  the  back 
of  the  range.  When  the  wax  is  soft,  take  it  from  the 
fire  and  beat  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  cupful  of  turpen- 
tine and  half  a  tablespoonful  of  paraffin  oil.  It  should 
then  be  used ;  but  if  it  becomes  cold  before  it  is  to  be 
used,  put  it  in  a  pan  of  hot  water  and  let  it  stand  for  a 
few  minutes. 

(b)  Wash  with  warm  water  containing  a  little 
vinegar.  To  restore  the  polish,  mix  well  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  with  a  teaspoonful  of  turpentine  to  each 
egg,  and  rub  the  mixture  into  the  leather  with  a  piece 
of  clean  flannel;  dry  with  a  clean  linen  cloth. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

(c)  Pour  half  a  cupful  of  boiling  water  over  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flaxseed  and  bring  to  the  boiling 
point ;  strain ;  and  when  cool  apply  to  the  leather  with 
a  cloth. 

Black  Leathers,  Restorative  and  Preservative  for. — 

Blackings  produce  a  bright  polish,  but  they  make  the 
leather  .brittle.  This  recipe  has  given  good  results  for 
the  preservation  of  black  leather:  Dissolve  fourteen 
grams  of  Marseilles  soap  in  forty-three  grams  of 
water ;  add  about  one  hundred  grams  of  alcohol.  Keep 
in  moderately  warm  place  and  shake  frequently ;  final- 
ly filter  through  a  tuft  of  cotton.  Proceed  in  the  same 
manner  to  make  a  solution  with  one  hundred  and 
twenty-five  grams  alcohol,  twenty  grams  of  Venetian 
turpentine,  seven  grams  of  mastic  and  fourteen  grams 
of  sandarac.  Then  make  another  mixture  with  one 
hundred  and  thirteen  grams  of  alcohol,  twenty-one 
grams  of  aniline  black,  and  fifty-two  grams  of  shellac. 
The  three  different  mixtures  must  now  be  united,  add- 
ing at  the  same  time  thirty  grams  of  glycerin.  Keep 
in  wide-necked  bottles.  An  iron  wire  should  be  fas- 
tened to  the  cork  that  closes  the  bottle  and  at  its  end 
a  little  sponge,  by  means  of  which  the  blacking  solu- 
tion can  be  put  thinly  upon  the  leather. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Chamois. — Chamois  bootees  clean  nicest  in  rather 
strong  ammonia  water.  They  should  be  washed  in  a 
suds  with  ammonia  in  it  and  rinsed  in  ammonia  water 
and  wiped  dry  with  a  towel.  Do  not  dry  near  artificial 
heat. 

Kid  Shoes,  To  Clean. — (a)  Dip  a  perfectly  white 
piece  of  flannel  in  a  little  ammonia  and  rub  over  a 
cake  of  white  soap ;  then  rub  the  kid  gently  until  the 
soil  is  removed,  changing  the  flannel  as  it  becomes 
soiled. 

(b)  Clean  with  benzine,  like  gloves,  by  rubbing 
them  gently  from  the  toe  upward,  with  an  even  stroke, 
with  a  cloth  dipped  in  the  benzine.  Do  not  have  the 
cloth  too  wet.  Shoes  should  be  cleaned  after  each 
wearing  so  that  the  rubbing  may  be  as  gentle  as  pos- 
sible. 

A  little  vaseline  may  be  rubbed  over  kid  shoes  at 
night,  and  rubbed  off  with  a  soft  cloth  in  the  morning. 
Thus  a  good  polish  may  be  obtained,  and  the  kid  will 
be  preserved  by  the  vaseline.  When  the  shoes  are 
shabby,  vaseline  will  still  be  a  good  dressing  for 
them,  if  a  little  lamp  black  be  mixed  with  it. 

White  Leather  or  Canvas. — (a)  Use  pipe  clay,  well 
rubbed  in ;  or  the  cleaners'  material  sold  for  this  pur- 
pose. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

(b)  Make  a  paste  of  Paris  whiting  and  warm  water 
about  the  consistency  of  cream;  apply  with   a  nail 
brush. 

(c)  Canvas  shoes  may  be  cleaned  with  soap  and 
water,  if  one  works  quickly,  so  that  the  moisture  does 
not  penetrate  the  canvas.     Make  a  thick  lather  with 
pure  white  soap  and  warm  water. 

Kid  Renovator. — Boil  an  old  kid  shoe  or  pair  of  old 
kid  gloves,  making  a  jelly,  whiqh  is  to  be  used  as  a 
dressing. 

Patent  Leather  Shoes. — (a)  Remove  the  dust  and 
wash  uppers  with  sweet  milk;  wipe  off  with  a  soft, 
dry  cloth. 

(b)  Dry  patent '  leather  shoes  by  filling  with  dry 
warm  bran;  wipe  the  outside  with  a  dry  cloth  and 
rub  in  vaseline  or  sweet  oil,  and  let  stand  until  dry. 

When  patent  leather  shoes  are  first  worn,  as  soon 
as  warmed  by  the  natural  heat  of  the  foot,  rub  in  with 
the  palm  of  the  hand,  a  few  drops  of  neat's-foot  oil, 
rubbing  thoroughly  until  completely  taken  up  by  the 
leather.  This  will  prevent  cracking  and  make  the 
leather  wear  twice  as  long. 

Tan  Shoes. — (a)  When  mud-stained,  clean  with 
a  cut  raw  potato ;  when  dry,  apply  boot  cream  or  bees- 
wax and  turpentine ;  polish. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING    AT     HOME 

(b)  Wipe  with  a  banana  skin ;  polish  with  a  cloth. 

(c)  Rub  evenly  with  a  woollen  rag  on  which  are 
a  few  drops  of  turpentine;  polish. 

(d)  Wash   with   a   woollen    rag   and   white    soap 
lather;  wipe  off  with  rag  and  clean  water;  wipe  dry, 
and  put  in  the  air. 

(e)  Remove  stains  with  methylated  spirits,  then 
rub  with  lemon  juice  and  milk;  polish. 

(f)  Use  one  ounce  of  muriatic  acid,  half  an  ounce 
of  alum,   half  an  ounce  of  spirits   of  lavender,   half 
an  ounce  of  gum  arabic,  half  an  ounce  of  skim  milk; 
polish. 

Suede  Shoes. — Rub  chloroform  quickly  over  the 
shoes  and  keep  rubbing  until  they  are  dry,  putting  it 
on  until  the  suede  is  clean.  Then  brush  with  a  clothes 
brush. 

Stain  for  White  Kids. — When  white  shoes  begin  to 
look  gray  and  shabby  they-  can  be  transformed  into 
tan  shoes  by  the  use  of  tincture  of  saffron.  Mix  ten 
drops  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  olive  oil ;  clean 
the  shoes  well  as  soiled  places  will  make  a  bad  spot ; 
then  rub  in  the  mixture  with  a  flannel  cloth.  Two 
coats  will  be  sufficient. 


124 


CHAPTER  XIX 
CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  RIBBONS 

WHITE  Silk  Ribbons. — These  should  be  washed 
in  water,  as  benzine  turns  them  yellow,  (a) 
Soak  in  warm  suds  of  Castile  soap;  then  scrub  them 
on  a  smooth  surface  with  a  soft  nail  brush;  rinse  in 
clear  water  and  press  out  water  between  towels ;  iron 
between  towels  with  a  moderate  iron.  A  few  drops 
of  vinegar  in  the  rinse  water  will  keep  them  stiff. 

Colored  Silk  Ribbons  and  Sashes. — (a)  Soak  in 
benzine  in  a  fruit  jar;  leave  several  hours  or  over 
night ;  dry  in  open ,  air  and  smooth  with  a  warm 
iron. 

(b)  When    only    slightly    soiled,    rub    with    hot 
flour. 

(c)  Apply    alcohol    and    benzine    with    a    clean 
sponge. 

China  Silk. — Sponge  lightly  with  clean  cold  water; 
iron  on  wrong  side  with  tissue  paper  between  the 
silk  and  the  iron. 

Stains. — Remove  with  French  chalk  process. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Creased  Silk  Ribbons. — (a)  Lay  them  evenly  on 
a  table ;  dampen  slightly  with  clear  water ;  then  wind 
them  tightly  and  smoothly  around  a  wine  bottle. 

(b)  Take  a  bottle  filled  with  boiling  hot  water. 
First  put  a  paper  around  the  bottle ;  then  roll  the  silk 
as  in  (a).  Set  aside  for  twenty-four  hours. 

White  Satin. — Pin  to  a  board  covered  with  a  clean 
cloth  and  scrub  with  white  flannel  from  end  to  end, 
using  cold  water  with  a  little  ammonia;  dry  on  the 
board  in  the  sun,  bleaching  finally  if  necessary  with 
peroxide  of  hydrogen ;  then  lay  in  the  sun.  When  al- 
most dry,  cover  with  thin  muslin  and  iron. 

Velvet. — Hold  over  a  pan  of  boiling  water  and 
brush  the  nap  with  a  stiff  brush.  This  will  remove 
wrinkles. 

Renovating  Old  Ribbons. — Milliners  smooth  them 
gently  and  then  sponge  them  with  weak  ammonia 
water,  then  shake  them  briskly  in  the  air  before  lay- 
ing them  between  towels  for  a  few  minutes.  Press 
quickly  with  hot  irons  between  fresh  layers  of  tissue 
paper.  After  ironing  sponge  out  any  tiny  streaks 
with  alcohol. 

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Care  of  Silks. — Ribbons  and  delicately  figured  silks 
are  preserved  better  in  brown  paper  wrappings,  as 
the  chloride  of  lime  in  white  paper  would  bleach  the 
colors  very  soon.  The  best  way  is  to  slip  ribbons  in 
brown  paper  bags  pasted  shut  at  the  end. 


127 


CHAPTER  XX 
CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  SATINS 

CLEANING. — Satins  are  cleaned  (a)  with  an  ap- 
plication of  the  following  solvent:  Mix  forty 
parts  borax  and  ten  parts  soap  in  seventy  parts  alco- 
hol and  thirty  parts  ether ;  then  add  yolks  of  two  eggs 
and  ten  parts  carbonate  of  magnesia ;  shake  and  apply 
to  stains ;  wash  in  lukewarm  water ;  rinse  in  cold  water, 
and  dry  in  a  moderate  heat. 

(b)  Benzine  will  not  take  grease  spots  out  of  satin. 
Sponge  with  household  ammonia  and  rub  dry. 

(c)  If  the  above  (b)  does  not  clean,  rub  in  French 
chalk  on  the  wrong  side,  leave  over  night,  and  next 
day  put  blotting  paper  over  the  chalk  and  set  a  warm 
iron  on  the  paper. 

(d)  If  very  much   soiled,   pour  into   about  three 
quarts  of  soapsuds  nearly  two  tablespoonfuls  of  kero- 
sene and  soak  the  satin  in  this  for  about  one  or  two 
hours.    Work  the  fabric  up  and  down  in  warm  water 
and  soap  and  rinse  thoroughly.     When  the  satin  is 
almost  dry  press  carefully. 

Colored  Satins. — To  clean  satins  of  delicate  colors 
(or  white)  :   (a)  apply  a  weak  solution  of  borax, 
(b)     Rub  with  dry  bread  crumbs. 
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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Renovating  Black  Satin. — Take  equal  proportions 
of  spirits  of  wine  and  warm  water  and  sponge  on  the 
right  side,  working  with  the  grain,  not  across,  and 
while  still  damp  iron  on  the  wrong  side. 

(b)  Scour  with  the  following:  Take  four  ounces 
honey,  four  ounces  soft  soap,  mix  with  an  egg  and  a 
wineglassful  of  gin,  and  apply  with  a  stiff  brush. 
When  the  fabric  appears  to  be  clean,  rinse  in  cold 
water,  press  between  clean  towels  or  hang  up  to  drain. 
Iron  while  still  damp  and  let  it  be  thoroughly  dry 
before  folding.  Satin  must  be  sponged  with  the  grain 
always,  not  across  it. 

Satin  Shoes. — To  clean,  use  (a)  spirits  of  wine  and 
new  flannel ;  rub  the  shoes  lengthwise  (with  the  grain), 
keeping  a  clean  flannel  surface  to  rub  with. 

(b)     If  but  slightly  soiled,  rub  with  stale  bread  or 

kneaded  rubber. 

« 

Tinting  Satin  Shoes. — Stock  colors  of  satin  shoes 
may  be  purchased;  to  match  dresses  of  other  colors 
resort  to : 

(a)  Pastel  pencils  or  colored  chalks,  or  rouge  for 
pink  shoes. 

(b)  To  restore  colors  and  give  them  darker  shades, 
use  liquid  dyes. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

(c)  Suede  pumps  and  slippers  may  be  given  a  good 
black  color  by  rubbing  with  charcoal. 

In  cleaning  all  satin  and  kid  shoes  and  slippers,  use 
shoe-trees. 


130 


CHAPTER  XXI 
CLEANING   AND   RENOVATING  SILKS 

/CLEANING  Fluid.— The  English  Society  of  Arts 
^^  some  years  ago  offered  a  prize  for  the  best  process 
of  cleaning  silk,  woollen,  and  cotton  fabrics — one 
that  woul,d  not  change  their  color  or  injure  them  in 
any  way.  The  winning  recipe  was  as  follows :  Grate 
two  good  sized  potatoes  into  a  pint  of  clear,  clean, 
soft  water.  Strain  through  a  coarse  sieve  into  a  gal- 
lon of  water  and  let  the  liquid  settle.  Pour  the 
starchy  fluid  from  the  sediment,  and  it  is  ready  for 
use.  Rub  the  articles  gently  in  the  liquid,  rinse  thor- 
oughly in  clear  water,  dry,  and  press. 

Following  are  directions  for  removing  various 
stains : 

Coffee  and  Tea. — Take  five  parts  glycerin,  five  parts 
water,  and  one  part  ammonia  (on  colored  silk  omit 
ammonia)  ;  apply  with  a  brush  and  leave  for  six  or 
eight  hours ;  then  brush  with  a  clean  cloth.  If  any 
substance  remains,  remove  with  a  knife  and  brush 
the  spot  with  clear  water  and  press  between  towels 
to  dry.  If  spot  still  remains,  rub  with  stale  bread. 
Work  gently. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Grease. — (a)  Split  a  visiting  card  and  rub  spot 
with  the  soft  side  of  the  card. 

(b)  Rub  with  hot  bran,  or  rub  French  chalk  on 
the  wrong  side. 

(c)  Try  blotting  paper  and  a  hot  iron. 

Hair  Stains. — Take  equal  parts  of  alcohol  and  ether 
and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  ammonia  (except  on  colored 
silks)  to  each  pint  of  mixture;  shake  well  and  apply 
with  a  clean  sponge. 

Mud  and  Dust. — (a)  Rub  with  flannel,  or  flannel 
saturated  with  spirits  of  alcohol. 

(b)  If  a  skirt,  go  over  it  with  a  cloth  well  wrung 
out  in  vinegar  and  warm  water. 

(c)  Sponge  with  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  tepid 
water  and  pure  alcohol,  a  piece  of  the  same  silk  as  the 
petticoat  being  used  for  the  purpose,  or,  if  this  is  im- 
possible, a  piece  of  soft  white  silk  may  be  employed 
as  a  substitute.    The  skirt  should  afterward  be  dried 
in  the  open  air  and  ironed  with  a  moderately  hot  iron, 
the  silk  of  the  petticoat  being  protected  by  a  piece  of 
muslin. 

Perspiration. — (Very  difficult  to  remove,  being  a 
combination  of  both  acid  and  alkali.)  Try  a  mixture 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

of  alcohol,  ether,  and  ammonia.  (See  "Coffee  and 
Tea,"  in  this  Chapter.)  In  applying  lay  several  thick- 
nesses of  white  blotting  paper  under  the  soiled  place 
to  prevent  the  ring  forming,  which  may  remain  when 
the  fabric  is  dry. 

Paint. — Saturate  in  equal  parts  of  turpentine  and 
ammonia;  then  wash  in  soapsuds  and  dry  between 
blotting  papers  under  a  weight. 

Rain  Spots. — Iron  on  wrong  side  with  a  moderately 
hot  iron,  laying  muslin  over  the  silk  to  prevent  a 
shiny  appearance. 

If  silk  merely  needs  sponging,  no  iron  should  touch 
the  surface.  If  rolled  while  damp,  on  a  broomstick, 
it  will  dry  in  a  day  or  so. 

Following  are  directions  for  special  silk  applica- 
tions : 

Cleaning  Black  Silk. — (a)  First  pare  and  slice  very 
thin  one  medium-sized  white  potato ;  pour  over  it  a 
gill  of  boiling  water,  cover  and  let  stand  all  night. 
Next  day  strain;  add  enough  pure  alcohol  to  make 
it  about  the  consistency  of  a  thin  water  starch;  then 
quickly  sponge  the  right  side  of  the  silk  with  the 
liquid,  carefully  rubbing  each  spot,  but  wetting  the 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

whole  goods.    Then  turn  and  iron  with  cool  irons  on 
the  wrong  side,  always  lengthwise  of  the  goods. 

(b)  Sponge   with   household  ammonia   and   press 
while  damp  on  the  wrong  side  of  the  goods. 

(c)  To  a  quart  of  water  add  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  powdered  alum,  immerse  the  silk,  and  iron  with  a 
hot  iron.     This  is  excellent  for  old  petticoats,  as  it 
gives  a  lustre  and  the  desired  stiffness. 

Stiffening  Black  Silk. — Boil  an  old  pair  of  black  kid 
gloves  in  a  quart  of  water  for  half  an  hour;  when 
cool,  squeeze  the  kid  hard  in  the  water;  strain,  and 
add  this  to  the  rinse  water.  This  will  stiffen  without 
leaving  any  trace  of  starch  or  gtim. 

Cleaning  China  Silks. — (a)  Wash  in  benzine  and 
finish  by  putting  through  suds  of  pure  white  soap  and 
warm  water ;  rinse  thoroughly. 

(b)  Wash  in  cold  water,  as  hot  water  soon  turns 
them  yellow.  Make  lather  of  white  soap;  rinse  in 
warm  water  with  a  little  ammonia  added ;  add  a  little 
bluing  to  the  last  rinse  water. 

Washing  Chiffon. — Use  plenty  of  warm  water  in 
which  a  little  borax  is  dissolved,  and  Castile  soap. 
Rub  gently  with  the  hands  and  squeeze  the  dirt  out, 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

afterwards  rinsing  in  clear  water.  Shake  the  garment 
gently  and  dry  it  in  the  following  manner :  Stretch  a 
clean  sheet  over  a  bed,  pinning  it  down  tightly.  With 
plenty  of  steel  pins,  pin  the  chiffon  to  this,  stretching 
it  into  shape  and  seeing  that  it  is  quite  smooth  every- 
where. The  process  is  easy  with  veils  and  scarfs, 
and  not  impossible  with  waists.  Before  washing  ac- 
cordion plaitings  run  a  basting  thread  firmly  through 
the  lower  edge  of  all  the  plaits,  gathering  them  in  a 
bunch.  After  washing  hang  the  plaitings  in  a  draft 
with  a  weight  attached  to  the  edge  to  keep  the  plaits 
straight. 

Dry-cleaning  Chiffon. — Use  two  parts  finely  pow- 
dered starch  to  one  of  fine  borax.  Spread  on  a  clean 
muslin  and  rub  the  mixture  well  in.  Shake  out  and 
sprinkle  liberally  with  clean  flour  and  borax;  cover 
and  lay  over  night.  Next  day  brush  and  shake  out 
the  powder. 

Wrinkles  in  Chiffon. — Freshen  by  passing  a  hot  iron 
over  the  wrong  side.  This  will  give  the  tucks  the 
raised  appearance  they  had  when  new. 

Stains  in  Crepe  de  Chine. — (a)  For  colored  crepe 
de  chine,  first  try  warm  water  without  soap.  If  stain 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

remains  try  ether,  using  a  bit  of  silk  as  a  sponge  and 
brushing  off  the  stained  spot  with  the  liquid. 

(b)  Sponge  soot  stains  with  clear  alcohol  and  rub 
dry  with  soft  flannel. 

(c)  Wash  coffee  stains,  if  fresh  and  moist,  in  clear, 
warm  water;  if  old  and  dry,  use  alcohol,  then  suds  of 
white  soap  and  warm  water;  rub  dry. 

Messaline. — To  freshen  black  messaline  boil  three 
or  four  pairs  of  old  black  kid  gloves  for  half  an  hour. 
Let  them  get  cold  in  the  water  and  squeeze  each 
glove  dry  to  get  all  the  color  and  stiffening.  Dip 
the  goods  in  this  liquid  several  times.  It  will  freshen 
the  black  and  restore  body  to  the  material.  Dry 
quickly,  ironing  through  a  thin  cloth  while  damp. 

Pongee. — Natural  pongee  may  be  washed  in  warm 
soap  water  and  ironed  when  dry.  If  it  is  ironed  on 
the  wrong  side  it  will  keep  its  new  look.  If  the  pon- 
gee is  embroidered  in  colors,  it  may  be  washed  with 
excellent  result  in  gasoline. 

Cleaning  Taffeta. — The  professional  method  is  to 
sponge  first  with  benzine  and  a  second  time  with  ben- 
zine and  Castile  soap;  easily  sponge  with  benzine 
and  hang  up  until  dry.  Any  spots  that  remain  are 
grease,  and  may  be  removed  with  French  chalk. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Renovating  Taffeta. — If  wrinkled  and  lacking  crisp- 
ness,  lay.  over  an  ironing  board  and  go  over  it  with 

alcohol  and  hang  in  the  air  to  dry. 

i 

Silk  Handkerchiefs. — Wash  in  a  lather  of  boiled 
soap  and  warm  water;  rinse  thoroughly,  adding  a  lit- 
tle methylated  spirits  to  the  last  rinse  water  to 
brighten  the  silk;  iron  while  still  damp. 

Bleaching  Silk. — Pour  one  pint  of  boiling  water 
over  one  tablespoonful  of  borax;  add  three  pints  of 
cold  water.  Dip  the  silk  into  this  and  hang  wet  on  a 
line  or  lay  on  the  grass ;  when  dry  repeat  the  process 
until  the  color  improves. 

Restoring  Color  of  Silk. — (a)  To  restore  the  color 
of  silk  articles  that  have  become  yellow  from  wash- 
ing, dip  in  tepid  soft  water  containing  a  tablespoon- 
ful of  ammonia  to  each  quart  of  water,  and  add  a  few 
drops  of  bluing.  Wring  them  out  and  if  still  yellow 
add  more  bluing.  Hang  in  the  shade  to  dry;  press 
with  a  hot  iron  white  still  damp. 

(b)  To  make  silk  that  has  been  washed  look  like 
new,  put  a  teaspoonful  of  methylated  spirits  in  the 
rinse  water  and  iron  while  damp. 

(c)  To  restore  color  taken  out  by  acid,  use  am- 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

monia  (sal  volatile,  or  hartshorn)  ;  drop  on  the  faded 
spot. 

(d)  To  correct  yellow  tinge,  sponge  with  perox- 
ide of  hydrogen  and 'lay  in  the  sun. 

Removing  Shine. — (a)  To  remove  shine  from  black 
silk,  stretch  the  silk  smoothly  over  an  ironing  board. 
Then  wrap  a  damp  cloth  over  a  hot  iron  and  pass  this 
slowly  over  the  silk,  not,  however,  touching  the  goods 
but  holding  the  iron  so  close  to  the  silk  that  the  steam 
will  reach  it. 

{b)  Use  one  ox  gall  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water,  which 
will  become  black  as  ink.  Sponge  the  silk  with  the 
solution,  using  black  cloth. 

Stiffening. — Flimsy  silk  that  has  become  wrinkled 
may  be  restored  to  nearly  its  original  freshness  by 
sponging  with  gum  arabic  water.  Sponge  on  the 
right  side  and  iron  on  the  same  side  while  still  damp 
but  almost  dry. 

A  piece  of  velveteen  is  excellent  for  brushing  silk, 
removing  the  dust  without  injuring  the  silk. 


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CHAPTER  XXII 

CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  VELVET  AND 
VELVETEEN 


HE  secret  of  longevity  in  velvet  lies  in  the  brush- 
A  ing.  Use  a  hat  brush  that  is  not  too  soft  but 
whose  bristles  are  elastic  enough  to  be  resilient;  hold 
firmly  in  the  hand  in  the  direction  of  the  arm.  Press 
the  bristles  gently  into  the  velvet,  then  twist  the  arm, 
hand,  and  brush  all  together  as  on  an  axis,  without 
moving  them  forward  or  backward.  The  dust  will 
be  drawn  up  and  flirted  out  without  injury  to  the 
velvet  and  the  brush  must  be  lifted  up  and  placed 
in  a  similar  manner  over  every  part  required  to  be 
brushed. 

Cleaning.  —  The  treatment  of  velvet  consists  of  clean- 
ing and  finishing.  Remove  the  dust  by  beating  the 
article;  then  rub  with  benzine.  After  drying  rub 
with  alcohol  on  a  soft  rag,  working  especially  the 
spots  caused  by  rain.  Then  steam  the  article  to  raise 
the  nap.  The  steaming  of  velvet  is  best  done  by  an 
expert,  but  as  a  substitute  the  article  may  be  hung 
by  the  top  on  the  line  stretched  in  a  bath  room  ;  close 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

the  door  and  window  and  turn  on  the  hot  water 
until  the  room  is  full  of  steam.  Let  the  velvet  hang 
until  the  steam  has  cooled ;  then  open  the  win- 
dow. The  article  should  be  quite  dry  before  being 
handled.  Small  pieces  may  be  steamed  over  a  ket- 
tle spout. 

White  Velvet. — Freshen  by  applying  chloroform, 
after  freeing  the  velvet  of  dust. 

Stains. — Remove  stains  from  velvet  by  brushing 
with  ether  and  water,  ether  and  alcohol,  and  pure  al- 
cohol, working  against  the  grain  while  wet,  and  when 
dry  iron  it. 

Grease. — Remove  with  benzine,  or  by  the  chalk,  dry 
starch,  or  powdered  method;  or  by  brushing  with 
turpentine  rubbed  on  briskly  with  a  bit  of  flannel. 
Two  or  three  applications  may  be  necessary. 

Paint. — Loosen  with  butter  or  lard  and  remove  the 
latter  with  benzine. 

Freshening  Velvet. — Sponge  on  the  wrong  side 
with  warm  water  and  pass  this  wrong  side  taut  over 
the  flat  surface  of  a  hot  iron.  The  steam  rising 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

through  the  nap  of  the  velvet  will  raise  it  and  remove 
the  creases.  Be  careful  not  to  touch  the  right  side 
until  the  velvet  is  perfectly  dry.  The  process  is  best 
done  by  two,  one  to  hold  the  velvet  and  one  the  iron. 
Velvet  trimmings,  collars,  etc.,  may  be  cleaned  and 
steamed  by  the  above  processes. 

Washing  Velveteen. — dean  velveteen  by  washing, 
which  the  fabric  will  stand  many  times  if  done  prop- 
erly. Put  the  goods  through  two  lathers  of  warm 
soapy  water,  using  a  moderately  stiff  brush  along  the 
grain  of  the  pile  as  it  lies  stretched  on  the  wash 
board,  until  all  the  dirt  is  removed;  rinse  in  clean 
cold  water  but  do  not  squeeze  or  wring  the  goods; 
hang  in  a  shady  place  to  dry.  Salt  is  sometimes 
added  to  the  last  rinse  water.  After  drying  it  may 
be  drawn  over  a  hot  iron  like  velvet,  but  this  is  not 
necessary. 


141 


CHAPTER  XXIII 
TREATMENTS  FOR  VARIOUS  FABRICS 

CORDUROY.— (a)  Clean  like  Bedford  cord.     (See 
Chapter  IX.) 

(b)  Use  turpentine  (be  sure  it  is  pure)  ;  use  plen- 
ty of  cloth,  sponging  and  wiping  with  one  or  more 
cloths;  afterwards  hanging  out  in  the  air,  and  then 
if  possible  in  heated  air. 

Corsets. — To  clean  corsets  at  home,  first  take  out 
all  steels  (whalebones  may  be  left  in)  ;  lay  corset  flat 
on  a  table  and  scrub  with  a  nail  brush  or  small  scrub- 
bing brush,  using  white  soap  until  clean ;  then  put 
under  a  tap  of  running  cold  water  and  rinse  out  all 
soap,  squeeze  out,  and  hang  in  the  sun  to  dry  quickly. 
Or,  after  the  soap  scrubbing,  brush  with  ammonia  or 
soda-lye,  rinse  and  pass  through  a  bath  soured  with 
hydrochloric  acid,  and  rinse.  Starch  if  desired,  and 
smooth  with  an  iron.  Hot  water  will  not  spoil  whale- 
bone or  celluloid ;  if  it  draws  the  stays  crooked,  iron 
with  a  warm  (not  hot)  iron.  Rebind  if  necessary 
with  new  tape. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Embroidery. — Linen  with  silk  embroidery:  (a) 
Wash  with  borax  soap ;  rinse  in  borax  water,  and 
wring  well.  Have  ready  writing  paper  on  which  has 
been  traced  the  pattern  by  laying  it  over  the  embroid- 
ery; then  cut  out  the  spaces  between  the  patterns. 
Baste  lightly  over  the  piece  and  lay  in  the  hot  sun, 
dampening  the  linen  now  and  then. 

(b)  A  delicate  piece  of  embroidery,  not  sufficient- 
ly soiled  to  be  washed  and  yet  not  without  soil,  should 
be  covered  with  French  chalk,  rolled,  and  left  for  sev- 
eral days.     When  the  chalk  is  whipped  out  the  em- 
broidery will  be  fresh  and  clean. 

(c)  The  heavy   embroideries   of  raised   gold   and 
silver  work  should  never  be  brushed  in  the  ordinary 
way.     If  rubbed  gently  with  a  piece  of  crimson  vel- 
vet a  good  result  will  be  obtained. 

(d)  Many  embroideries  may  be  freshened  by  paint- 
ing with  dyes. 

Lace  Fans. — (a)  Spread  the  fan  on  a  towel  and 
cover  thickly  with  block  magnesia;  put  a  fold  of 
the  towel  over  it  and  whip  lightly  with  the  hands ;  then 
reverse  to  clean  opposite  side.  If  badly  soiled,  clean 
with  benzine  and  dry  talcum  powder. 

(b)  Place  in  a  vessel  and  cover  with  benzine ;  press 
until  the  dirt  comes  out,  then  immerse  again  in  clean 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

benzine  to  which  a  drop  of  bluing  has  been  added; 
spread  out  and  fasten  the  points  to  stretch  the  fan, 
and  cover  with  scented  talcum  powder,  and  leave  it 
for  twenty-four  hours.  Do  not  try  to  rub  the  dirt 
out.  If  edges  are  worn  bind  with  chiffon  ribbon,  lace 
beading,  frill  of  lace,  etc.,  to  match. 

Flowers. — Faded  artificial  roses  may  be  made  fresh 
looking  by  coloring  with  a  French  rouge  that  is  like 
a  rather  dry  paste.  Dip  an  old  handkerchief  or  small 
brush  in  rouge,  apply  to  each  petal,  and  rub  toward 
the  edge  to  so  blend  the  color  that  the  deepest  tints 
are  in  the  heart  of  rose.  If  one  understands  water 
color  paints,  or  can  work  with  dyes  with  an  artist's 
brush,  most  silk  or  cotton  flowers  may  have  their 
bloom  restored.  If  the  flowers  are  considered  valu- 
able, do  not  attempt  it  if  a  novice,  as  it  requires 
skilful  coloring. 

To  Clean  Neckties. — Take  eighteen  grains  powdered 
white  Castile  soap,  five  fluid  drachms  strong  aqua  am- 
monia, twenty-four  grains  granulated  saltpetre.  Dis- 
solve the  soap  in  a  pint  of  warm  soft  water ;  then  add 
the  saltpetre,  and  when  this  is  dissolved  add  the  am- 
monia. After  ten  hours  it  is  ready  for  use.  Take  a 
cloth  or  small  sponge  and  after  wringing  it  out  of  this 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

mixture,  gently  rub  the  tie  until  the  dirt  disappears. 
This  process  can  also  be  used  for  white  or  dark  ties, 
and  fine  silk  and  wool  goods. 

Mackintoshes. — (a)  Clean  with  soap  and  soft  water. 
Lay  out  smoothly  on  a  table  and  scrub  the  spot  until 
the  mud  is  removed.  Rinse  with  clean  water  and  hang 
in  the  air  to  dry.  Do  not  use  hot  water  at  any  time. 
Stains  that  do  not  yield  to  soap  and  water  may  be  re- 
moved by  brushing  them  with  ammonia. 

(b)  Mackintosh  coats  which  have  become  hard 
and  rigid  may  be  easily  cleaned  with  lime  and  water. 
A  handful  of  the  best  gray  lime  should  be  dissolved  in 
half  a  bucketful  of  water,  and  the  mixture  applied  to 
the  stiffened  parts  by  means  of  a  piece  of  sponge. 
This  should  be  repeated  at  the  end  of  three  or  four 
hours. 

Grease  Stains. — Remove  grease  and  paint  with  tur- 
pentine. 

To  Mend. — Make  a  cement  by  dissolving  shreds  of 
pure  rubber  in  naphtha  to  make  a  stiff  paste.  Apply 
it  to  each  edge  to  be  joined;  lay  the  mackintosh  on 
a  table,  bring  the  torn  edges  together,  and  place  a 
weight  on  them  until  the  cement  has  hardened. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Mattresses. — Remove  stains  with  a  paste  of  starch 
and  household  ammonia.  Wash  the  dust  out  of  the 
spots,  and  coat  them  thickly  with  this  paste.  Leave 
it  on  for  two  days.  Brush  out.  If  there  be  any  sign 
of  the  stain,  sponge  with  peroxide  of  hydrogen  and 
lay  in  the  sun.  An  excellent  detersive  is  made  by  sub- 
stituting peroxide  of  hydrogen  for  ammonia  in  the 
starch  paste. 

To  Clean  Rain  Coats. — Sponge  with  a  mixture  of 
alcohol  and  ether,  to  which  is  added  a  tablespoonful  of 
ammonia  to  a  pint  of  the  liquid. 

Silk  Parasols. — (a)  To  remove  rain  spots :  sponge 
all  over  with  a  mixture  of  alcohol  and  ether  in  equal 
parts,  keeping  the  parasol  open ;  then  sponge  with  am- 
monia and  wipe  dry  with  a  soft  linen  cloth. 

(b)  If  only  slightly  soiled,  clean  with  benzine  and 
when  dry  brush  with  alcohol  and  distilled  water. 

(c)  Wash  (raised)  in  cold  soapsuds,  scrubbing  the 
crease  streaks  with  a  soft  brush ;  rinse  in  warm  water 
and  pour  over  it  a  dilute  solution  of  sulphuric  acid  and 
rinse  in  clear  water  to  remove  all  acid.     Polish  with 
chamois  skin,  a  piece  of  paper  being  put  between  the 
goods  and  the  frame.    Dry  in  the  air,  while  still  raised. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Colored  Silk  Parasols. — These  may  be  cleaned  in 
the  same  way,  except  that  black  checks  should  not  be 
treated  with  acids  but  with  common  salt. 

Embroidered  Parasols. — Clean  in  the  same  way  if 
the  colors  do  not  run,  but  it  is  safer  to  take  these  to  a 
professional. 

Dark  Parasols. — These  are  best  cleaned  with  ben- 
zine and  brushed  with  quillaia  bark  decoction  when,  the 
benzine  has  evaporated.  Dry  by  whirling  and  hanging 
in  the  air.  A  good  sponging  with  a  gelatine  solution 
and  alcohol  will  improve  their  appearance.  Being 
dried  while  open,  no  ironing  is  necessary,  except 
fringes.  Ornaments  of  different  fabric  from  the  goods 
must  be  removed. 

Cotton  Parasols. — White  cotton  parasols  may  be 
cleaned  like  silk  ones,  but  treated  with  warm  Javelle 
water  instead  of  the  acid. 

Plush. — Freshen  by  sponging  with  chloroform. 

Washing  Plush. — Plush  velvet  may  be  changed  to 
the  crinkled  kind  that  looks  like  a  caracul  fur  by  soak- 
ing in  water.  If  soiled  wash  with  soap  and  water. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Rinse  thoroughly  and  then  twist  it  lengthwise  of  the 
goods  into  a  tight  rope;  wring  as  hard  and  dry  as 
possible;  then  shake  out  and  hang  in  the  air  to  dry. 
If  stiff  soften  by  rubbing. 

White  Chiffon  Veils.— (a)  When  soiled,  make  a 
strong  lather  of  white  soap  and  simmer  the  veil  in  it 
for  quarter  of  an  hour;  rinse  in  cold  water  with  a  lit- 
tte  liquid  bluing.  Then  pass  the  veil  through  a  thin 
gum.  arabic  water,  or  water  in  which  rice  has  been 
boiled,  and  clear  by  shaking.  When  dry,  lay  between 
pieces  of  thin  muslin  and  iron  on  the  wrong  side. 

(b)  By  some  Pearline  is  preferred  to  soap,  being 
less  likely  to  turn  the  veil  yellow.     Put  the  veil  into  the 
tepid  suds  and  rub  gently.     After  flapping  in  and  out 
until  thoroughly  cleaned,  rinse  in  clear,  tepid  water, 
after  which  process  remove,  catch  by  the  ends  and  flap 
several  times.     While  still  moist  stretch  out  upon  a 
bed,  pinning  down,  here  and  there,  at  each  end  and 
securing  in  like  manner  all  around  the  length  of  the 
veil.    This  takes  the  place  of  pressing,  and  at  the  same 
time  does  not  affect  or  alter  the  natural  wrinkle  of  the 
filmy  material. 

(c)  Cleaning  by  steaming:     Get  a  piece  of  an  old 
broom-handle    or   a   roller,   wind    the   veils    carefully 
round  it,  being  very  careful  that  the  edges  are  even. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Lay  across  a  boiler  or  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and 
steam  for  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Leave  on  the  wood 
till  dry. 

Crepe  is  even  more  satisfactory  when  treated  in  this 
manner,  the  steam  giving  it  the  stiffness  of  new  ma- 
terial, and  also  taking  out  all  the  dirt  and  dust. 

In  removing  veils  from  hats  after  wearing,  fold  in 
breadths  and  hang  on  a  ribbon  tacked  across  an  inner 
wardrobe  door.  This  precaution  prevents  creasing  and 
prolongs  the  use  and  freshness  of  a  veil. 

Colored  Veils. — Place  colored  veils  (not  chiffon) 
in  a  small  glass  of  alcohol,  rinse  them  through  this  to 
make  them  clean,  lay  them  upon  a  folded  sheet,  and 
pin  in  shape.  When  dry,  press  with  a  warm  iron,  un- 
less they  are  covered  with  chenille  dots.  At  least  iron 
the  border  edge. 

Dyeing  Chiffon  Veils. — Wash  and  dry;  then  dye. 

Black  Chiffon  Veils. — Wash  by  passing  through  hot 
water  containing  a  small  quantity  of  ox  gall  and  per- 
fume. Squeeze  out,  do  no  rub ;  rinse  in  cold  water 
with  bluing  in  the  last  water.  Stiffen  by  dipping  in  a 
thin  glue  water.  Squeeze  and  shake  out  to  dry;  iron 
like  a  white  veil. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

To  Clean  Coat  Collars. — Apply  turpentine  to  the 
soiled  places ;  let  the  fluid  dry ;  apply  several  times 
and  scrape  off  the  dirt ;  repeat  until  clean,  then  sponge 
with  alcohol  or  chloroform  and  wipe  dry. 


150 


CHAPTER  XXIV 
CLEANING   JEWELRY 

A  PRACTICAL  jeweller  says  that  jewelry  and 
diamonds  should  be  first  washed  in  benzine  and 
then  in  a  suds  of  Castile  soap  to  which  ammonia  has 
been  added.  Rinse  in  clean  water,  dip  in  alcohol,  and 
dry  in  jeweller's  sawdust  (or  bran).  This  holds  good 
for  all  precious  jewelry  except  pearls.  Transparent 
gems  should  never  be  wiped,  but  twice  a  week  is  none 
too  often  to  give  them  the  cleaning  above  described. 
The  beauty  of  a  gem  is  its  sparkle,  and  this  is  not 
seen  at  its  best  when  the  setting  is  not  clean  and 
bright. 

Pearls. — (a)  May  be  washed  as  above  except  that 
benzine  and  soap  must  be  omitted  and  the  operation 
must  be  performed  very  quickly  so  as  to  allow  as  lit- 
tle time  as  possible  to  intervene  between  the  first  wet- 
ting of  the  article  and  the  placing  of  it  on  sawdust. 
Pearls  are  often  cemented  in  places,  and  fluids  have  a 
tendency  to  soften  the  cement.  Pearls  absorb  grease 
more  than  any  other  jewels,  and  it  is  this  which  so 
often  causes  them  to  become  dull  and  discolored. 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

When  not  in  use  pearls  should  be  kept  in  a  box  con- 
taining powdered  rice  flour.  This  will  absorb  the 
grease  and  be  much  better  for  them  than  if  they  were 
kept  in  their  proper  cases. 

(b)  Clean  pearls  with  cotton  wool  also,  and  "lily 
white"  powder,  polishing  with  a  very  soft  brush. 

(c)  A  mother-of-pearl  buckle  should  be  cleaned  by 
covering  the  buckle  with  a  paste  made  of  whiting  and 
water,  and  when  quite  dry  brushing  it  off  and  polishing 
with  a  dry  cloth. 

Gold. — (a)  If  the  gold  has  lost  its  lustre  through 
use  or  is  tarnished,  make  a  solution  of  one  quart  of 
water  and  one  ounce  of  cyanide  of  potassium  and  dip 
the  jewelry  in  it.  Then  rinse  in  cold  water  and  proceed 
as  below  from  this  point.  (It  must  be  remembered 
that  the  potassium  is  a  deadly  poison,  and  therefore 
too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  when  it  is  being  used.) 

(b)  If  gold  is  dull  and  requires  polishing,  rub  with 
a  piece  of  chamois  or  leather  upon  which  has  been 
placed  a  small  quantity  of  jeweller's  rouge.  Wash  off 
the  rouge  with  Castile  soap  and  water ;  then  rinse  in 
clear  water,  dip  in  alcohol,  and  dry  in  jeweller's  saw- 
dust. 

Brooches,  etc. — Brooches,  rings,  and  such  things  as 
are  in  constant  use,  should  be  brushed  at  intervals 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

with  a  toothbrush  that  has  been  dipped  in  eau  de 
cologne.  If  the  setting  is  open,  it  must  be  done  from 
the  back,  and  carefully,  so  as  not  to  loosen  the  stones. 
Then  lay  the  things  in  a  box  of  jeweller's  sawdust 
which  has  been  slightly  heated  beforehand,  and  leave 
for  an  hour. 

Chains. — Wash  gold  chains  in  warm  soapsuds,  dry- 
ing them  on  a  soft  towel  by  pulling  back  and  forward. 
They  may  also  be  dried  in  sawdust  and  the  particles 
blown  or  dusted  out  afterward.  Be  sure  to  get  them 
dry,  as  they  will  be  apt  to  become  worn  between  the 
links  if  any  dampness  remains. 

Dull  Gold. — Clean  dull  gold  jewelry  without  re- 
moving jewels,  etc.,  and  without  injuring  either  the 
dull  gilding  or  the  gem,  by  rubbing  it  gently  with  a 
soft  brush  moistened  in  bicarbonate  of  soda  and  water, 
to  which  have  been  added  a  few  drops  of  ammonia. 
Then  rinse  thoroughly  and  dry  in  pure,  warm  saw- 
dust. 

Silver  Filigree. — (a)  When  filigree  silver  has  be- 
come dull  and  black  it  may  be  cleaned  by  thoroughly 
washing  in  a  bath  of  potash  water.  Rub  with  a  soft 
toothbrush  wherever  a  flat  surface  is  presented,  then 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

set  the  silver  in  the  following  solution :  One  part  of 
common  table  salt,  one  of  alum,  two  of  saltpetre,  and 
four  of  water.  Soak  for  five  minutes,  then  rinse  out 
in  cold  water,  wipe  dry  and  polish  with  chamois 
leather. 

(b)  Old  pieces  of  silver  filigree  may  be  perfectly 
cleaned  with  cream  of  tartar.  Make  into  a  pa^te  with 
a  little  water  and  spread  thickly  on  the  silver,  rubbing 
into  the  crevices.  Wrap  each  piece  in  flannel  rags 
and  let  lie  for  five  or  six  days.  Then  wash  off  the 
paste  in  warm  water,  and  the  ornaments  will  be  found 
quite  clean  and  bright. 

Diamonds. — Diamonds  set  without  pearl  or  tur- 
quoises may  be  cleaned  by  a  brushing  with  methyl- 
ated spirits.  It  will  greatly  enhance  their  brilliancy. 

Nickel  Silver. — To  clean  nickel  silver  ornaments, 
dip  a  piece  of  flannel  in  ammonia  and  rub  the  article. 

Jet. — To  keep  jet  in  condition,  (a)  saturate  cotton 
with  oil  and  rub  on  carefully ;  after  this,  polish  with  a 
piece  of  soft  chamois  skin. 

(b)  Brush  dust  from  the  jet  with  a  small  soft 
brush,  not  stiff  enough  to  scratch,  yet  firm  enough  to 
get  into  the  crevices.  After  the  dust  is  gone  immerse 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

the  ornament  in  alcohol  and  rub  dry  with  a  silk  cloth, 
later  polishing  with  chamois. 

(c)  A  large  piece  of  jet  can  be  brightened  by  rub- 
bing it  with  a  very  finely  powdered  rotten  stone  mixed 
with  a  little  olive  oil.  Sift  the  rotten  stone  through  a 
fine  muslin  before  mixing  with  the  oil.  Rub  until 
blur  or  marks  are  removed,  then  polish  with*  a 
chamois. 

Rhinestones. — (a)  The  cleaning  of  rhinestones  is  a 
difficult  task  for  an  amateur;  but  once  they  begin  to 
turn  black,  nothing  can  restore  their  brilliancy,  and 
they  need  attention  from  time  to  time.  If  the  silver  in 
which  they  are  set  begins  to  tarnish,  remove  this  tar- 
nish by  a  vigorous  scrubbing  in  lukewarm  water  with 
suds  from  Castile  or  any  other  pure  toilet  soap  and  a 
stiff  brush.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  water  is  not 
too  hot  or  it  may  soften  trie  cement  around  the  stones. 
Have  the  water  clear  and  without  grit.  Immerse  the 
pieces  for  not  over  two  minutes  and  then  begin  scrub- 
bing with  the  stiff  brush  ;  plunge  each  piece  into  a  bowl 
of  clear  water  to  rinse  off  the  soap,  and  then  place  in 
a  box  filled  with  jeweller's  sawdust  and  leave  for  half 
an  hour  until  all  the  water  is  absorbed.  When  dry 
whisk  off  any  fine  pieces  of  the  wood  with  a  soft  brush 
and  rub  gently  with  a  soft  cotton  or  silk  cloth.  This 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

cleansing  should  brighten  the  silver  and  unless  the 
stones  are  turned  the  pieces  should  be  as  bright  as  if 
new.  If  the  silver  is  still  'discolored  after  the  bath, 
plunge  the  piece  into  a  bowl  of  cyanide  of  potassium, 
using  rubber  gloves  so  that  the  poison  acid  will  not 
touch  the  flesh.  The  ornament  must  be  merely  dipped 
in  this  fluid  and  immediately  withdrawn,  for  the  liquid 
is  so  powerful  that  the  jewelry  would  be  destroyed  if 
left  in  it  for  more  than  a  few  seconds.  The  moment 
the  piece  is  taken  from  this  brightening  fluid  it  must 
be  plunged  into  a  bowl  of  lukewarm  water  so  that  the 
cyanide  will  be  washed  off.  Such  treatment,  even  the 
water  bath,  is  only  possible  where  the  rhinestones  are 
set  in  silver,  platinum,  or  gold,  for  when  the  stones  are 
not  entirely  surrounded  by  some  metal  the  only  way 
they  can  be  cleaned  is  by  careful  brushing  with  a  soft, 
dry  earners  hair  brush. 

(b)  To  clean  rhinestone  buckles,  moisten  a  small 
portion  of  prepared  chalk  with  cold  water ;  dip  into 
this  a  dry,  clean  toothbrush  and  rub  the  stones  until  all 
dirt  is  removed.  Then  brush  with  a  dry  brush. 

Tortoise-shell. — (a)  Tortoise-shell  pins,  combs,  and 
other  articles  which  have  become  dirty  and  dingy- 
looking  from  wear  should  be  wiped  with  a  soft  cloth, 
then  rubbed  well  with  a  paste  made  of  rotten  stone 

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CLEANING     AND     RENOVATING     AT     HOME 

and  sweet  oil,  then  with  jeweller's  rouge,  and  finally 
with  a  piece  of  clean  chamois  leather.  This  treatment 
will  not,  however,  be  required  if  the  articles  are  rubbed 
fairly  often  with  a  chamois  leather. 

(b)  Brighten  tortoise-shell  combs  and  pins  by  rub- 
bing them  with  alcohol,  and  after  drying  with  a  soft 
rag  use  bismuth  powder  to  render  them  bright. 

(c)  Polish  tortoise-shell  with  rouge  powder  or  pul- 
verized borax ;  put  on  dry  and  rub  with  tissue  paper. 

Passementerie. — Jet  passementerie  may  be  cleaned 
by  rubbing  it  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  equal  parts  of 
alcohol  and  water.  Dry  it  immediately  with  a  clean 
cloth. 

Steel  Ornaments. — (a)  Steel  ornaments  may  be 
cleaned  from  rust  and  discoloration  by  rubbing  them 
with  a  brush  dipped  in  paraffin  oil  and  then  in  emery 
powder.  Polish  with  dry, chamois. 

(b)  Put  the  article  into  a  box  three-quarters  full 
of  fine  emery  dust.    Close  the  box  and  shake  violently 
up  and  down  and  to  and  fro  for  several  minutes.  Now 
and  then  turn  the  box  upside  down  and  shake  again 
to  leave  no  part  of  the  article  untouched. 

(c)  Rub  steel  jewelry  with  unslacked  lime.    It  may 
be  kept  bright  by  storing  it  in  an  air-tight  box  with 
this  substance  in  powder. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

(d)  Cut-steel  buttons  may  be  polished  with  pow- 
dered pumice  stone,  slightly  moistened  and  applied 
with  a  soft  brush  or  cloth. 

A  lump  of  camphor  placed  in  the  clothespress  will 
keep  steel  ornaments  bright. 

Ivory. — To  clean  ivory  ornaments  brush  them  with 
an  old  toothbrush  and  soap.  Rinse  in  lukewarm  water 
and  dry  thoroughly.  Then  brush  the  ornaments  again 
till  the  lustre  appears.  It  will  be  increased  if  a  little 
alcohol  be  poured  on  the  brush.  If  the  ivory  is  very 
yellow  set  it  in  the  sun  to  bleach. 

Toilet  Articles. — Toilet  articles,  vinaigrettes  and 
other  small  trinkets  may  be  easily  brightened  without 
the  use  of  powder  by  placing  them  in  an  aluminum  re- 
ceptacle and  pouring  boiling  water  over  them.  Polish- 
ing should  be  done  by  means  of  a  piece  of  clean  cha- 
mois leather,  but  in  adopting  this  treatment  it  must  be 
remembered  that  the  silver  should  never  be  allowed  to 
become  tarnished. 


158 


CHAPTER  XXV 
THE  LAUNDRY 

THE  purpose  of  washing  clothes  is  to  remove  the 
dirt  from  fabrics  in  personal  use  and  to  so  pre- 
pare them  for  use  that  they  will  catch  and  retain  as  lit- 
tle dirt  as  possible.  The  first  essential  of  the  laundry 
is  soft  water  or  water  that  can  be  made  so.  The 
utensils  are:  stand  for  tubs,  or  stationary  tubs,  tubs, 
washing  machine  (electric  if  practicable),  washboard, 
wringer,  stove  for  boiling  water  and  heating  irons, 
boiler,  clothes  lines  and  poles,  stock  of  pins,  ironing 
table  and  boards,  including  sleeve  and  shirt  boards, 
flatirons,  a  household  mangle,  and  clothes  horse  for  the 
ironed  garments  or  pieces.  Gas  irons  are  not  very 
practical  for  the  household ;  electric  irons  are,  but  need 
care  and  cause  many  fires  in  careless  hands.  Polishing 
irons  are  needed  if  the  home  work  includes  any  fine 
work.  All  of  these  things  may  be  as  simple  as 
economy  may  dictate  or  as  elaborate  as  taste  with 
purse  may  call  for.  Supplies  include  borax,  soda,  soap, 
starch,  bluing,  ammonia,  kerosene. 

The  Water. — Soft  (rain)  water  is  preferable,  because 
it  combines  easily  with  soap  to  make  a  lather.  If  black- 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

ened  by  soot  put  in  a  boiler  one  pail  hard  water  and 
four  of  rainwater;  when  lukewarm,  add  1  heaping 
teaspoon  powdered  lye,  which  will  cause  soot  to  come 
to  the  surface  and  can  be  removed.  If  water  is  tem- 
porarily hard,  it  can  be  made  soft  by  drawing  some 
time  before  using  and  letting  it  stand  in  the  air,  or 
by  boiling,  which  will  precipitate  the  mineral  (the 
crust  found  in  kettles).  If  permanently  hard,  it  can 
be  softened  by  the  use  of  washing  soda.  Use  only 
enough  in  the  form  of  a  solution  to  make  a  lasting 
suds.  It  will  injure  colored  fabrics  and  woollens.  A 
little  ammonia  will  help  to  soften  water,  but  must  not 
be  used  for  colored  goods.  For  small  and  delicate 
articles  use  boiled  water.  Contra:  To  harden  soft 
water,  add  one  tablespoonful  salt  per  gallon. 

Soap. — Brown  soaps  usually  contain  rosin  and  soda 
and  are  good  for  washing  white  clothes,  but  they 
should  not  be  use'd  for  colored  cloths  or  flannels  as 
soda  bleaches  the  one  and  rosin  injures  the  other.  For 
coarse  clothes  soft  soap  will  go  farther.  Soap  jelly  is 
very  convenient.  Save  scraps  of  soap  or  cut  bar  soap 
into  bits  and  heat  until  a  clear,  smooth  jelly  results. 
Hint :  If  bar  soap  is  cured  and  seasoned  for  some  time 
it  will  not  melt  so  rapidly.  (2)  To  economize  soap,  a 
little  pipe  clay  may  be  used  for  kitchen  cloths  and 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

i 

much-soiled  articles  ;  dissolved  in  water  it  has  a  cleans- 
ing effect. 

Bluing. — Bluing  is  used  to  remove  the  yellowish 
tint  of  white  goods  acquired  in  washing,  and  for  tint- 
ing dark  goods.  Ultramarine  blue  is  the  best  and  the 
powder  gives  better  results  than  the  liquid. 

Starch. — Use  the  products  of  reliable  makers.  It 
should  be  pure  white  in  color  and  after  being  put  into 
cold  water  and  dried  after  the  water  is  drawn  off,  the 
dried  cake  should  break  crispy. 

Washing  Fluids. — Many  laundresses  who  have  ex- 
tra difficult  clothes  to  handle,  use  washing  compounds 
of  various  sorts  for  loosening  dirt.  Following  are  for- 
mulae: 

(1)  One  box  potash;  one  ounce  salts  tartar;  one 
ounce  pulverized  ammonia;  one  ounce  pulverized  bo- 
rax ;  two  quarts  water.  Dissolve ;  add  four  quarts  water. 
Use  one  cupful  to  boiler  of  clothes.     Keep  in  glass 
jars ;  must  not  freeze ;  keep  from  children. 

(2)  One  ounce  quicklime,  four  and  one-half  gal- 
lons water;  stir  thoroughly  and  allow  to  settle;  pour 
off  clear  solution  which  is  enough  for  four  barrels  of 
hard  water. 

(3)  One  gallon  common  soft  soap,  four  ounces  sal- 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

soda,  one-half  gallon  soft  (rain)  water,  one  and  one- 
half  gills  spirits  of  turpentine.  Place  over  fire  and 
allow  to  boil  a  few  minutes ;  is  then  ready  for  use. 

(4)  To  boiler  water  add  one  teacupful  kerosene, 
one  tablespoonful  spirits  of  turpentine,  soap;  boil  the 
fabrics. 

(5)  To  each  pail  of  water  add  one  tablespoonful 
aqua  ammonia,  half  usual  amount  of  soap ;  soak  goods 
over  night ;  use  in  the  boiling  water. 

Paraffin  Formulae. — Cut  a  bar  of  soap  into  pieces 
with  piece  of  paraffin  wax  about  two  inches  square ; 
add  two  quarts  water;  put  on  fire  until  melted;  put 
half  the  amount  into  the  first  boiler,  the  other  half 
into  the  second  boiler. 

(2)  To  boiler  water  add  one  teacupful  kerosene 
and  one  teacupful  gasoline ;  usual  amount  of  soap ; 
boil  fabrics  one  half  hour. 

(3)  One  tablespoonful  paraffin  to  one  gallon  water ; 
use  in  boiler  water. 

(4)  Melt  bar  of  soap  by  heat,  add  four  teaspoonfuls 
kerosene;  when  hot  pour  into  half  tub  of  water;  soak 
white  clothes  over  night;  boil. 

(5)  Equal  parts  of  kerosene,  clear  lime  water  and 
turpentine ;  shake  until  creamy ;  add  cupful  to  boilerful 
of  clothes;  boil    (recommended  for  very  yellow  and 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

• 

grimy  articles,  overalls,  working  shirts,  children's  trou- 
sers). Use  with  very  hot,  strong  suds;  have  second 
suds  and  rinse  water  as  hot  as  the  first  water. 

Borax. — Borax  is  useful  in  the  laundry.  Being  a 
mineral,  it  does  not  injure  most  fabrics,  and  is  one  of 
best  germicides,  cleansers  and  bleachers  known  and 
is  grateful  to  the  hands. 

CARE  OF  UTENSILS 

Wringer. — Loosen  spring  and  clean  wringer  rolls 
with  kerosene  oil  on  a  cloth.  Wipe  clean  of  oil  as  oil 
injures  the  rubber.  Put  away  with  a  piece  of  muslin 
between  the  rolls  (2)  Clean  with  water  in  which  is 
ammonia,  one  teaspoonful  to  one  cupful  water. 

Tubs. — Dry  tubs  after  using  if  fibre  or  metal ;  kero- 
sene oil  will  remove  stains  from  metal  tubs.  Covered 
tubs  should  be  opened  once  or  twice  a  week  to  air. 

Boiler. — Dry  carefully  after  using  to  prevent  rust. 
Rust  may  be  prevented  by  coating  the  inside  while  still 
warm  with  good  soap,  or  by  wiping  with  a  rag  moist- 
ened with  kerosene. 

Line. — Clothes  lines  are  improved  by  boiling  fif- 
teen minutes  before  using  the  first  time.  To  clean, 
boil  in  soapsuds  with  soda;  rinse  and  dry  in  the  air. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

• 

Have  lines  drawn  taut  when  in  use.  Wipe  carefully 
before  using.  Take  in  at  end  of  wash  and  put  in  bag  to 
keep  clean. 

Washboards. — Glass  are  the  best.  If  wood  or  zinc- 
faced  are  used,  scald  carefully  with  soda  water  and 
chloride  of  lime  and  dry  at  end  of  washing,  otherwise 
they  become  unsanitary  and  dangerous  in  case  of  con- 
tagious disease.  Ordinarily,  clothes  need  but  little 

rubbing. 
* 

Ironing  Boards. — Have  an  ironing  board  for  shirts, 
about  twelve  inches  long  by  eight  wide,  covered 
with  flannel  for  polishing  fronts ;  sleeve  board  for  shirt 
waist  sleeves;  on  sale  at  stores.  An  ironing  board  is 
better  than  a  table,  being  adjustable  as  to  height; 
have  covering  drawn  tight  to  prevent  wrinkling. 


164 


CHAPTER  XXVI 
THE  PROCESS 

BEGIN  by  carefully  sorting  "the  wash" :  all  personal 
linens  and  fine  starched  goods ;  (2)  all  body  linen 
and  pillow  slips ;  (3)  all  table  linens ;  (4)  sheets,  towels, 
etc.;  (5)  flannels;  (6)  woollens;  (7)  colored  garments. 
Each  lot  should  be  washed  separately  if  best  results 
are  desired.  Look  all  over  to  find  articles  needing  re- 
pairs, which  should  be  made  at  once,  and  to  remove 
stains.  As  to  the  latter,  when  in  doubt  try  to  remove 
with  cold  water.  If  white  goods  are  soaked,  let  it  be 
in  lukewarm  water  without  soap,  except  that  body 
linen  may  be  soaked  with  a  little  soap  if  very  dirty. 
Hint :  Hot  water  sets  stains,  and  washing  powders  by 
overnight  soaking  may  damage  the  goods. 

Make  a  strong  suds  of  warm  water  and  soap  cut 
into  bits.  Wash  first  the  table  linens ;  then  the  fine 
white  goods,  adding  only  a  little  more  soap.  The 
wrist-bands  and  collar  bands  and  bottoms  of  skirts 
and  the  most-soiled  spots  should  be  first  well  soaped. 
The  boiling  is  designed  to  sterilize  the  fabrics  and  to 
loosen  the  dirt ;  hence  it  is  not  necessary  to  cook  the 
goods  but  only  to  give  them  a  good  scalding,  stirring 

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in  the  boiler  frequently.  Too  much  boiling  makes  the 
goods  tender  and  is  apt  to  yellow  them.  Half  an 
hour's  boiling'  after  the  bubbles  begin  is  enough. 
After  the  clothes  have  been  scalded  they  are  drained 
and  put  into  clean,  cold  water.  Thorough  rinsing  is 
most  important;  it  can  hardly  be  overdone. 

Coarse  clothes  and  towels  should  be  in  the  boiler 
twenty  minutes.  Small  articles,  such  as  handkerchiefs, 
collars,  cuffs,  etc.,  can  be  boiled  in  a  sack  to  save  much 
handling. 

Colored  fabrics  should  be  rubbed  to  loosen  and  re- 
move the  dirt,  using  clean  water  not  too  hot  with 
plenty  of  soap ;  rinse  until  all  soap  is  removed. 

Rinsing  must  be  thorough.  Rinse  before  boiling, 
and  again  after  boiling.  It  can't  be  overdone.  By 
rinsing,  the  clothes  are  made  free  of  soap  and  soapy 
odors,  and  soap  and  blue  often  combine  to  cause  spot- 
ting like  iron-rust.  Handle  all  the  articles  loosely  so 
that  the  water  will  go  through  them  freely.  Badly 
rinsed  clothes  do  not  iron  well  and  sooner  or  later  they 
become  discolored. 

Such  articles  as  towels,  napkins,  pillow  slips,  should 
not  be  run  through  the  wringer  widthwise  but  lifted 
from  the  rinse  water  lengthwise  and  put  through  the 
wringer  in  the  same  way  evenly,  pillow  slips  from  the 
closed  end;  it  will  save  trouble  later  in  the  ironing. 

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All  articles  should  be  wrapped  and  pulled  smooth  and 
even  and  hung  up  wrong  side  out.  The  thickest  parts, 
the  waist  or  neck  bands  should  be  at  the  line ;  a  sheet 
or  tablecloth  with  the  hems  at  the  bottom,  and  be 
pulled  slightly  on  the  line  to  prevent  stretching ;  tow- 
els, napkins,  pillow  slips  in  the  same  way;  night 
dresses  by  the  shoulders ;  skirts  from  the  hems ;  stock- 
ings from  the  toes.  Hang  starched  clothes  in  the  sun- 
niest places. 

In  freezing  weather  if  a  handful  of  salt  is  put  in  the 
last  rinse  water,  the  clothes  will  not  freeze  or  stiffen 
until  after  they  are  hung  on  the  line ;  and  it  is  possible 
even  to  change  the  position  of  a  lineful  of  clothes  if 
necessary,  before  they  freeze.  If  hung  in  the  sun  they 
will  have  commenced  to  dry  before  the  freezing  be- 
gins, and  they  are  easier  to  remove  from  the  line. 

In  cool  weather  the  goods  may  be  dampened  at 
night,  folded  carefully  and  rolled  tightly  to  distribute 
the  moisture,  the  starched  things  being  ironed  first  in 
the  morning;  but  in  summer  they  should  not  foe 
sprinkled  over  night,  as  they  may  sour  before  morn- 
ing, and  there  is  danger  of  mildew. 

Bluing. — Bluing  calls  for  carefulness.  Streaks  are 
caused  by  unskilful  mixing  or  by  hanging  the  fabric 
when  too  wet.  When  bluing  is  put  into  the  starch, 

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beat  the  bluing  water  into  the  starch  as  the  white  of  an 
egg  is  folded  into  a  souffle  and  then  strain  through 
cheese  cloth.  A  bluing  bag  is  recommended  by  many 
to  prevent  streaking  and  over-bluing.  It  is  good  prac- 
tice to  measure  and  not  to  guess  at  quantities.  If  too 
much  bluing  has  been  put  into  the  rinse  water  it  can  be 
corrected  by  adding  a  little  household  ammonia.  Blu- 
ing is  a  poison  and  should  be  used  sparingly.  It  is 
also  recommended  that  to  give  fabrics  the  desired 
bluish  whiteness  they  be  soaked  over  night  in  bluing 
water  and  no  bluing  used  next  day.  In  the  absence 
of  bluing  a  teaspoonful  of  turpentine  in  the  boiling 
water  will  aid  the  whitening  process.  In  practice  blue 
one  article  at  a  time  and  wring  out  at  once.  As  some 
fabrics  take  the  blue  more  easily  than  others,  watch- 
fulness is  called  for.  Soft  and  loose  fabrics  take  color 
more  easily  and  should  go  into  more  diluted  color,  or 
after  other  articles  have  been  blued.  Fine  articles 
need  but  little  tinting  and  many  others  of  loose  tex- 
ture like  Turkish  (rough)  towels  the  merest  shade 
and  easily  become  discolored  by  too  much  bluing. 

Sprinkling. — House  furnishers  have  a  sprinkler  that 
is  a  rubber  bulb  with  a  real  sprinkler  attached.  As 
good  a  device  is  a  clean  whisk  broom  kept  for  this  pur- 
pose only.  Cover  the  basket  with  a  blanket  to  keep 

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the  fabrics  moist.  When  sprinkling  fabrics  that  have 
become  too  dry  for  ironing,  use  warm  water;  it  pene- 
trates quicker,  and  less  is  required,  and  ironing  can 
begin  sooner.  Ironing  starched  articles  when  too  dry 
breaks  the  threads  and  frays  the  edges.  Calicoes 
should  not  be  sprinkled  until  the  day  they  are  to  be 
ironed. 

Starch  and  Starching. — Mix  two  tablespoonfuls 
laundry  starch  with  a  gill  of  cold  water.  Pour  on  that 
one  pint  boiling  water,  stirring  it  all  the  time.  Add  to 
that  half  teaspoonful  salt,  half  teaspoonful  white  sugar 
and  a  piece  of  spermaceti  about  the  size  of  a  thimble. 
Boil  ten  minutes,  stirring  frequently.  Should  it  be- 
come too  thick,  beat  in  hot  water  to  the  right  consist- 
ency. If  too  thick  when  cool,  thin  with  clear  water 
with  a  mere  dash  of  bluing.  Some  make  starch  with 
soapy  water  to  produce  a  gloss.  Keep  the  starch 
covered  while  boiling.  Strain  through  a  piece  of 
cheese  cloth  and  keep  covered  while  cooling. 

Have  the  articles  to  be  starched  nearly  dry,  and  dip 
them  into  the  starch  while  it  is  yet  warm.  Strike  the 
articles  between  the  hands  that  the  starch  may  be 
worked  into  all  the  threads.  Dry  them  and  dampen 
with  cold  water.  Roll  them  in  a  clean,  dry  cloth  and 
let  them  remain  so  a  few  hours.  When  ironing  keep 

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the  unironed  part  damp  by  covering  it  with  a  wet 
cloth. 

(2)  Mix  two  quarts  cold  water  with  two  table- 
spoonfuls  dry  starch,  and  when  the  clothes  are  dry 
dampen  them  with  that  instead  of  wetting  them  in  cold, 
clear  water. 

To  make  any  clothing  extra  stiff  dry  the  garments 
first,  then  run  through  starch  and  dry  the  second  time. 
When  dresses  are  not  to  be  worn  stiffly  starched,  hav- 
ing only  enough  to  hang  in  graceful  folds  without 
sticking  out,  starch  them  while  still  wet,  but  the  starch 
must  be  allowed  to  cool  a  little  first,  as  heat  has  always 
a  fading  tendency.  Goods  that  are  closely  woven  re- 
quire a  thinner  starch  than  loosely  woven  fabrics ; 
the  latter  should  be  shaken  but  not  wrung  too  dry 
when  taken  out  of  the  starch;  if  hung  up  without 
shaking  out  carefully,  they  will  be  matted  when  dry, 
and  hard  to  separate  without  danger  of  tearing. 

Hot  Water  Starch. — Mix  with  enough  cold  water  to 
make  a  cream  one  tablespoonful  of  starch,  one-half 
tablespoonful  of  borax  and  one-fourth  tablespoonful 
finely  shredded  tallow  candle  or  spermaceti.  Add 
enough  boiling  water  to  cook  the  starch,  and  pour  on 
boiling  water,  mixing  thoroughly  till  the  starch  is 
clear. 

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Alsatian  Starch  Luster. — Used  to  give  luster  to  laun- 
dry starch  for  special  li-nen  and  cambric  lingerie,  col- 
lars, etc.  Take  two  and  one-half  ounces  of  borax,  two 
and  one-half  ounces  of  gum  arabic,  two  and  one-half 
ounces  of  spermaceti,  six  and  three-fourth  ounces  of 
glycerin,  and  two  and  one-fourths  pints  of  distilled 
water,  with  either  sweet-scented  essence,  such  as  rose, 
thyme,  orange  flower,  etc.,  to  fancy  and  preferred 
strength.  Use  six  teaspoonfuls  to  seven  ounces  boil- 
ing laundry  starch. 

Laundry  starch  employed  for  the  same  fabrics  is 
compounded  as  follows :  Blend  smoothly  one  ounce 
best  potato  starch  with  a  little  cold  water,  add  one 
tablespoonful  pounded  loaf  sugar,  the  same  of  dex- 
trine, one  tablespoonful  of  much  diluted  indigo 
(liquid),  strained  through  fine  muslin,  and  pure  paraf- 
fin the  size  of  a  nutmeg.  -  Then  pour  on  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water  and  cook,  constantly  stirring  not  less  than 
half  an  hour.  Strain  at  once  through  a  linen  cloth. 

Rice  Starch. — For  fine  linens,  cambrics,  lawns,  lace 
handkerchiefs  and  neckwear.  Boil  down  in  two 
waters  in  which  rice  has  been  washed;  or  pulverize 
rice  and  mix  like  ordinary  laundry  starch.  A  few 
drops  of  lavender  or  orris  root  gives  a  delicate  scent. 

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Gum  Arabic  Starch. — Two  ounces  fine  white  gum- 
arabic  powder;  put  in  vessel  and  pour  over  it  one 
pint  boiling  water;  cover  tight  and  let  stand  over 
night;  then  strain,  bottle  and  cork.  Stir  one  table- 
spoonful  in  one  pint  starch  made  in  the  usual  way; 
gives  the  beautiful  gloss  of  new  linen.  Diluted  the 
solution  without  starch  is  good  for  pieces  that  are  stif- 
fened to  dry  but  not  to  be  ironed.  For  light  summer 
dresses  a  few  pieces  of  gum  arabic  dropped  in  warm 
water  to  soak  over  night  will  make  enough  liquid  to 
dip  two  or  three  dresses  when  thinned  with  warm 
water  to  the  same  consistency  as  ordinary  starch. 

Starch  Accessories. — Either  a  few  drops  of  kero- 
sene ;  one  teaspoonful  turpentine ;  wine-glass  of  borax 
water;  few  drops  of  glycerine, — added  to  starch  gives 
a  gloss.  For  starching  muslins,  ginghams  and  calicoes, 
dissolve  a  piece  of  alum  the  size  of  a  hickory  nut  for 
every  pint  of  starch ;  will  keep  the  colors  bright  for  a 
long  time.  For  Holland  pinafores,  a  little  tea  added  to 
starch  holds  the  color.  For  mourning  goods,  boil  one 
quart  of  clean  wheat  bran  in  three  gallons  of  water 
for  one  hour.  While  still  warm,  strain  through  a 
cheesecloth,  and  wash  the  black  muslin  or  linen  in  it; 
use  neither  soap  nor  starch;  press  while  damp.  For 
black  or  dark  blue  goods,  use  water  in  which  pota- 

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toes  have  been  boiled,  or  dissolve  a  little  gum  arabic 
in  the  rinsing  water  instead ;  iron  on  the  wrong  side 
with  a  piece  of  black  cloth  pinned  over  ironing  board. 
For  collars,  etc. — Use  hot  starch  formula  (using  lard 
in  place  of  spermaceti  if  need  be),  adding  a  few  drops 
of  kerosene  or  one  tablespoonful  turpentine.  Set  this 
in  a  cool  place  and  stir  it  now  and  then  until  quite  cool ; 
then  dissolve  two  tablespoonfuls  raw  starch  in  a  lit- 
tle cold  water  and  pour  it  into  the  hot  starch,  which 
should  be  cool  enough  not  to  scald  the  cold  starch; 
stir  it  in  thoroughly.  The  starch  should  be  the  con- 
sistency of  thick  cream.  Now  starch  the  shirts;  be 
sure  to  run  in  well  with  the  hand  all  the  starch  they 
will  hold ;  then  dry.  Or,  use  elastic  or  celluloid  starch 
according  to  directions.  Or,  use  boiled  starch  with 
a  pinch  of  borax ;  shirts  dipped  twice.  Cover  the  shirt 
bosom,  cuffs  and  collar  with  a  clean  piece  of  muslin 
until  dried  and  iron  is  cooled ;  the  muslin  will  prevent 
smutting  and  scorching.  Tack  a  piece  of  clean  mus- 
lin tightly  and  smoothly  on  a  smooth  bosom  board 
and  polish.  For  cheviots  or  coarse  shirt  waists — col- 
lars and  cuffs  only — cover  a  few  pieces  of  white  cabi- 
netmaker's glue  with  water  and  set  on  back  of  range 
to  melt;  then  add  it  to  cold  starch;  cover  till  dry  or 
the  iron  will  stick.  Or,  a  polish  for  shirt  bosoms  is 
made  of  one  ounce  each  of  isinglass  and  borax,  one  tea- 

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spoonful    of   white   glue,   and   the   white   of   an   egg, 
cooked  well  in  two  quarts  of  starch. 

"Wrinkles." — (1)  When  laundering  starched  arti- 
cles in  winter  add  borax  to  the  starch  and  the  cuffs  and 
collars  will  not  lose  shape.  (2)  When  starching  any- 
thing with  a  fringe,  double  the  article  in  four  parts, 
gather  fringe  tightly  in  the  hand,  and  hold  it  while 
you  dip  middle  in  starch.  When  dry  shake  the  fringe 
well  and  comb  with  a  coarse  comb.  (3)  After  using 
cold-water  starch  let  it  settle,  then  pour  off  the  water 
and  allow  the  starch  to  dry.  When  it  is  dry  it  can  be 
replaced  in  the  starchbox  for  future  use.  (4)  A  crust 
forming  over  starch  may  be  prevented  by  putting  a 
cover  over  it  soon  after  making. 

Laundry  Dye. — A  laundry  help  is  a  dye  for  cotton 
or  linen,  dissolved  and  bottled,  ready  to  use  as  one 
would  bluing.  Pink,  blue,  red,  lilac,  green  and  yellow 
may  be  prepared  according  to  the  directions  that  come 
on  each  package  and  used  a  little  at  a  time  in  rinse 
water  to  brighten  faded  garments. 

Tinting  Starches. — For  curtains  and  laces  tinting 
starches  are  often  desired.  Tea  and  coffee  mixed  with 
the  starch  and  allowed  to  stand  and  strained  before 
using  is  effective.  (2)  Laces  may  be  permanently 

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colored  by  use  of  permanganate  of  potash — a  few 
grams  to  one  quart  hot  water.  Treat  the  color  first; 
then  dip  the  lace  and  rinse  in  clear  warm  water  to  even 
the  color.  Depth  of  tone  can  be  determined  at  will  by 
quantity  of  the  potash.  (3)  Saffron — put  in  water 
and  simmer  gently  for  an  hour ;  strain  carefully.  Test 
the  color  first ;  using  enough  saffron  to  get  the  desired 
color.  (4)  Cream  starch  can  be  had  in  some  markets. 
Mix  in  dry  state  with  white  starch,  dissolving  thor- 
oughly to  avoid  specks  after  starching.  Use  enough 
to  get  the  shade  desired,  tentative  proportions  one 
ounce  cream  to  four  of  white  starch. 

Bleaching  Bluing. — Quantities  of  about  equal  values 
of  oxalic  acid  and  Prussian  blue,  dissolved  in  a 
quart  of  rainwater ;  let  stand  for  several  days,  shaking 
occasionally;  a  few  drops  added  to  the  boiling  suds 
will  make  the  clothes  as  white  as  snow. 

Ironing. — Ironing  is  an  art.  It  can  be  learned  only 
by  practice  and  observation;  but  on  the  skill  with 
which  it  is  done  depends  in  large  measure  the  appar- 
ent success  of  much  of  the  work  of  the  laundering. 
Have  the  ironing  board  or  table  covered  perfectly 
smooth  with  a  good  padding  under  the  cover.  Have 
clean  irons,  just  hot  enough.  Spread  the  article  to  be 
ironed  smoothly  on  the  table.  Iron  hems,  bands, 

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trimmings,  etc.,  first;  then  the  body  of  the  article. 
Move  the  iron  regularly  over  the  fabric,  using  some 
pressure.  A  constant  lifting  of  the  iron  and  a  jerky 
movement  are  apt  to  produce  wrinkles.  Irons  grow 
smooth  and  work  better  with  use ;  for  this  reason  it  is 
better  to  iron  the  large,  plain  pieces  first,  then  follow 
with  the  starched  articles.  All  starched  articles  must 
be  ironed  until  perfectly  dry.  Plain  articles,  like  sheets, 
pillow-cases,  towels  and  plain  underwear,  need  not  be 
ironed  all  over.  Iron  the  hems,  then  fold  smoothly 
and  iron  one  side.  All  colored  goods,  lace  trimmings 
and  embroidery  must  be  ironed  on  the  wrong  side, 
avoiding  a  very  hot  iron  which  may  cause  fading. 
Tablecloths  should  be  folded  in  the  middle  lengthwise, 
and  be  ironed  on  both  sides  until  perfectly  dry.  Nap- 
kins and  handkerchiefs  should  be  ironed  singly,  then 
folded  and  pressed.  After  ironing  hang  upon  one  side 
of  the  clotheshorse  only  such  articles  as  can  be  put 
away  immediately  after  airing. 

In  ironing  garments,  like  skirts,  it  is  important  to 
study  the  grain  of  the  material.  The  ironing  must 
be  so  done  as  not  to  stretch  it  in  length;  the  iron 
moves  across  the  board  and  not  with  it.  A  blouse 
on  the  other  hand  must  be  ironed  to  preserve  the  set 
of  the  neck  and  shoulders,  and  therefore  would  be 
ironed  with  the  grain.  In  ironing  any  garment  be- 

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gin  on  a  straight  seam  and  follow  that  as  a  guide  to 
keep  the  garment  even  throughout.  Goffering  is  an 
art  in  itself  and  can  be  only  referred  to  here  as  one 
not  now  practiced  a  great  deal  in  private  homes. 

The  Irons. — Besides  the  usual  heavy  irons,  have 
small  ones  for  sleeves  and  delicate  fabrics.  Have  them 
smooth  and  not  too  hot,  overheating  injures  the  tem- 
per of  the  iron  and  is  apt  to  cause  scorched  goods  or 
to  fade  the  fabrics. 

To  Clean. — When  irons  show  black  specks  or  rust, 
wash  in  soap  suds ;  when  rusty,  rub  with  warm  grease 
and  wrap  in  brown  paper ;  then  dissolve  a  small  piece 
of  soda  in  hot  water,  dip,  rub  dry,  and  when  ready  to 
use  rub  on  brown  paper  that  has  a  little  powdered 
bath  brick  on  it.  To  prevent  rusting,  rub  the  surface 
with  vaseline  and  sweet  oil..  If  rough,  rub  on  fine 
sand  paper,  or  fine  salt  on  paper ;  or  on  a  pad  of  brown 
paper;  or  on  the  paraffin  papers  from  cracker  boxes. 
When  coated  with  starch,  put  flakes  of  beeswax  be- 
tween papers  or  cloths  and  rub  the  irons  over  the  wax. 
If  sticky,  rub  on  grated  bath  brick  and  olive  oil  or 
kerosene.  Finely  sifted  ashes  on  newspapers  are  ex- 
cellent to  clean  irons.  When  not  in  use,  keep  in  a 
dry  place.  A  heavy  and  deep  pan  or  skillet 
placed  over  heating  irons  will  save  heat  and  give 

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a  hotter  iron.  A  clean  brick,  as  an  iron  stand,  will 
keep  irons  hotter  than  the  usual  iron  stand.  Asbestos 
cloth  is  a  good  lining  for  iron  holders,  and  is 
excellent  to  rest  the  iron  on  and  to  save  the  cover 
of  the  ironing  board.  An  iron  holder  can  be  made 
from  old  kid  gloves,  sewing  a  pad  of  kid  from 
the  left  glove  in  the  palm  of  the  right  one.  This 
protection  from  the  heat  and  weight  of  the  iron  will 
do  much  to  keep  the  ironer's  hands  from  becoming 
calloused.  A  dark  calico  bag  or  cover  for  the  ironing 
board  when  it  is  not  in  use  is  an  excellent  thing,  as 
it  is  essential  that  the  ironing  sheet  should  be  kept 
very  clean,  and  the  cover  suggested  makes  it  possible 
to  do  so. 

Suggestions. — Keep  a  small  new  scrubbing  brush 
to  brush  fringe  on  doilies  when  ironing.  A  small 
clean  sponge  and  a  bowl  of  water  are  essential  upon 
the  ironing  board  when  fine  lingerie  garments  must 
frequently  be  dampened.  A  bowl  of  clear  starch 
water  is  also  needed.  When  ironing  a  starched  gar- 
ment and  a  part  of  it  becomes  dry  do  not  dampen 
with  water,  but  with  a  cloth  wet  with  a  little  cold 
starch.  This  will  keep  all  parts  of  the  garment  of 
equal  stiffness.  To  iron  a  tucked  material,  turn  to  the 
wrong  side,  dampened  with  a  damp  cloth  and  iron 

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quickly  with  a  moderately  hot  iron,  lengthwise  on 
the  tucks.  This  makes  each  tuck  stand  out  nicely  and 
is  much  better  than  ironing  on  the  right  side.  Before 
ironing  eyelets  open  the  closed  eyelets  with  a  wooden 
skewer  or  stiletto  and  you  will  have  less  trouble  in 
bringing  out  the  best  effects.  The  ugly  puckering 
that  prevents  center  pieces  from  lying  flat  on  the 
table  is  prevented  by  ironing  the  centre  before  the 
edges.  Fold  kitchen  towels  in  half  lengthwise  before 
ironing  and  they  will  be  more  rapidly  smoothed  out; 
and  ironing  in  this  manner  is  quite  enough  for  articles 
which  are  for  use  only.  When  pressing  dark  linen 
frocks  it  is  just  as  well  to  cover  the  board  for  the 
time  with  a  piece  of  dark  material  and  thus  avoid 
pressing  the  white  lint  into  the  material. 


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CHAPTER    XXVII 
SPECIAL  WORK 

BEDDING. — Comfortables.  Soap  soiled  spots  and 
scrub  with  small  brush;  hang  on  strong  line  and 
turn  on  the  hose,  forcing  the  water  through  the  cotton ; 
treat  both  sides  alike;  squeeze  corners  and  ends  as 
dry  as  possible. 

Pillow  or  bolster. — Double  a  sheet  and  sew  side  and 
ends  together,  leaving1  an  opening  on  one  end  a  little 
more  than  the  width  of  the  pillow.  Open  pillow,  sew 
the  two  together  and  shake  feathers  into  the  sheet. 
Wash  thoroughly  in  soapsuds,  rinse,  wring  with  ma- 
chine and  dry  in  the  sunshine,  shaking  often  to  lighten 
the  feathers.  Before  returning  the  feathers  to  the 
tick,  coat  the  inside  of  it  with  thick  flour  paste,  and  let 
dry ;  or,  better,  rub  the  surface  of  the  tick  with  melted 
beeswax,  so  the  fluff  and  feathers  will  not  work 
through. 

Eiderdown  quilt. — Mend  any  little  holes  in  the 
sateen;  then  prepare  a  suds  with  warm  water  and 
boiled  soap,  and  in  this  plunge  the  quilt.  Squeeze  with 
the  hands  till  the  water  becomes  dirty,  then  place  in 
fresh  suds  and  repeat  the  process  till  clean.  Rinse  out 

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the  soap  in  as  many  changes  of  water  as  necessary; 
squeeze  out  the  water  by  hand,  shake  the  quilt,  and 
hang  out  to  dry,  squeezing  out  end  and  corners.  When 
dry,  shake  till  quite  soft  and  full.  Do  not  use  a  man- 
gle or  the  quilt  will  be  flat  looking. 

Fold  sheets  across  the  wide  and  narrow  hems ;  bring 
together,  and  mangle.  This  is  done  quickly  and  they 
look  as  well  as  if  more  time  and  trouble  were  spent 
on  them. 

Collars  and  Cuffs.— See  "Shirts,  Collars  and  Cuffs." 

Colored  Cottons. — Strong  soaps  and  great  heat  will 
dull  and  fade  colors.  For  dark  cottons  the  preference 
is  for  washing  in  starch.  Four  quarts  of  boiled  starch 
are  made.  Half  of  this  is  put  into  two  pailfuls  of  soft 
warm  water  and  the  goods  washed  until  clean ;  add 
water  to  the  remaining  half  of  the  starch  and  rinse; 
dry  and  iron  on  the  wnong  side.  If  soap  is  used  let 
it  be  of  a  mild  quality  and  pure.  Make  a  suds  of  soft 
water,  having  the  water  just  tepid.  Wash  the  ar- 
ticles in  this  without  boiling;  rinse  in  several  cold 
waters,  one  soft,  and  one  hard  water,  at  least,  to  which 
one  tablespoonful  salt  to  one  pailful  is  added,  and 
then  starch.  If  the  soiled  parts  do  not  cleanse  in  hot 
water  without  soap,  make  a  slight  suds ;  never  rub 
soap  directly  upon  the  garments  to  be  cleaned.  If 

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badly  soiled  or  there  is  fear  of  the  colors  running, 
soak  them  in  cold  water  and  salt;  allow  half  a  cupful 
of  salt  to  two  gallons  of  water.  Have  the  starch  cold 
and  strained.  Wring  the  garment  from  the  starch 
and  hang  at  once  in  the  shade;  sunlight  fades  the 
colors  when  wet.  When  ready  to  iron,  sprinkle  thor- 
oughly and  roll  in  a  cloth  for  a  few  minutes,  then  iron 
on  the  wrong  side.  Prints  are  better  not  sprinkled  but 
if  too  dry  may  be  ironed  under  a  damp  cloth,  but  should 
be  ironed  immediately  after  washing.  All  colored 
goods  should  have  a  quick  washing.  For  light  cam- 
brics and  prints,  dissolve  a  tablespoonful  of  alum  in 
enough  lukewarm  water  to  rinse  a  dress  and  dip  the 
dress  into  it,  taking  care  to  wet  thoroughly  every  part 
of  it,  and  then  wring  it  out  before  washing  as  above. 
Dainty  muslin  dresses  and  pinafores,  ginghams,  cre- 
tonnes, piques,  babies'  dresses,  and  fine  linen  ties  and 
collars,  should  be  washed  in  bran  water,  using  no 
soap.  Boil  one  or  two  quarts  of  bran  in  soft  water, 
tied  in  a  cloth  for  the  purpose,  five  minutes  or  more, 
and  leave  until  the  water  is  cool.  Squeeze  the  bag 
hard  and  remove.  Wash  the  garments  by  dipping  up 
and  down  in  the  bran  water,  and  squeezing.  Yolk  of 
egg  may  be  rubbed  into  grease  spots  or  other  places 
where  the  material  is  especially  soiled.  Rinse  well 
in  clear  water  and  hang  in  room  without  fire  or  srun- 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

light.  Make  a  thin  starch,  adding  thereto  a  little  gum 
arabic,  previously  dissolved ;  iron  before  dry  with  mod- 
erately heated  irons.  Muslins  so  washed  and  starched 
retain  their  stiffness  in  spite  of  exposure  to  dampness, 
and  keep  their  new  look. 

'For  washing  challies,  dark  muslins  and  lawns,  mus- 
lins of  doubtful  color,  and  chintzes,  rice  water  without 
soap  is  best.  Boil  one  pound  of  rice  in  five  quarts  of 
water;  when  cool,  put  the  challies  in  with  rice  and 
rice  water  and  wash  well,  using  the  rice  much  as  you 
would  soap.  If  no  rinsing  is  used  the  rice  will  have  a 
good  effect  on  the  fabric.  Cornstarch  may  be  used  in 
place  of  rice ;  the  starch  is  boiled,  made  very  thin  and 
strained.  Water  tepid,  not  hot ;  use  two  rice  or  starch 
waters ;  then  rinse  and  blue.  In  these  cases  gum  arabic 
need  not  be  used  unless  it  is  desired  to  make  the  goods 
very  stiff. 

The  delicate  blues  wash  beautifully  if  the  soap  is 
mild  and  the  water  tepid,  rinsing  in  cold  salt  water. 
Do  not  allow  the  article  to  stand  in  any  but  the  salted 
water,  and  that  only  for  a  minute  or  two,  and  the 
starch  should  be  lukewarm ;  dry  in  the  shade,  bring 
the  garment  in  when  just  damp  enough  to  iron,  and 
iron  on  the  wrong  side  of  garment.  If  colors  seem 
faded  or  changed  they  may  often  be  restored  if  the 
garments  are  still  wet  by  rinsing  the  articles  in  a 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

fresh  tub  of  water,  with  a  teacupful  of  vinegar  mixed 
through  it. 

Black  lawn  must  be  rinsed  in  water  in  which  blu- 
ing has  been  added  liberally,  or  if  starch  is  used  it 
must  be  made  almost  black  by  the  addition  of  coffee 
or  bluing.  The  best  laAvns  are  those  with  just  a  sils- 
picion  of  starch  in  laundering  the  goods  to  restore 
them  to  their  natural  state.  Wash  black  calicoes  in 
hot  or  cold  water ;  with  every  two  gallons  of  water  add 
a  handful  of  table  salt,  to  prevent  the  color  from 
fading.  Cotton  gowns  with  black  ground  work  and 
white  lines  or  figures  wash  well  if  boiled  in  soapsuds 
ten  minutes.  After  white  clothes  are  removed,  cool, 
rub  quickly  and  lightly,  rinse  in  tepid  water,  and  starch 
in  coffee  starch. 

Bagdad  Portieres  and  Couch  Covers. — The  stripes 
should  be  ripped  apart  and  washed  separately,  as  the 
colors  run  a  little,  although  not  enough  to  impair  the 
brightness  of  the  pieces.  Do  not  rub  soap  on  the 
fabric;  wash  quickly  in  warm,  soapy  water;  dry  in 
the  air,  but  not  in  the  direct  sunshine. 

Curtains. — Colored  curtain  colors  may  run  a  lit- 
tle but  not  much  if  of  good  material.  Use  bran  water, 
handful  of  bran  per  gallon  of  water;  boil  ten  minutes. 
Into  one  tub  put  level  teaspoonful  soap  jelly  per  gal- 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Ion  water.  Pour  half  the  water  on  this  and  half  in 
another  tub,  without  any  soap.  When  the  water  is 
cool  enough  to  bear  your  hand  in  quite  comfortably, 
put  the  curtains  into  the  one  with  the  soap  in  it. 
Press  well  down  under  the  water,  and  leave  for  ten 
minutes.  Souse  up  and  down  till  all  the  dirt  seems  to 
be  out,  and  then,  without  wringing,  put  into  the  other 
bran  water.  Empty  the  first  tub  and  put  under  cold 
water  tap.  Lift  the  curtains  out  of  the  bran  water, 
put  them  in  the  cold  and,  sousing  them  up  and  down, 
let  the  water  run  till  it  looks  clear.  Then,  without 
wringing,  hang  on  the  line,  pulling  them  well  into 
shape.  Wringing  makes  creases  that  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  afterwards  remove.  When  they  are  about 
half  dry  give  them  a  good  shaking,  one  person  at  each 
end. 

Lace. — Examine  and  make  repairs;  then  shake  the 
dust  out  first ;  soak  over  night  in  plenty  of  cold  water ; 
in  the  morning  rinse  in  several  waters ;  then  put  into 
hot  suds  and  wash  by  sopping  and  squeezing.  Wash 
in  a  second  tub  of  suds  of  warm  water,  borax  and 
pure  white  soap ;  then  put  them  into  a  tub  of  boiling 
water.  After  an  hour  (or  after  ten  minutes'  boiling) 
rinse  thoroughly.  Do  not  rub  them  but  dip  them  up 
and  down  until  clean.  If  necessary  scrub  with  a  soft 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

brush.  Squeeze  out  water  with  the  hands.  To  have 
them  very  white,  slightly  blue  the  last  water,  but  if  an 
old  look  is  desired  have  the  water  slightly  colored  with 
black  tea.  If  a  creamy  shade  is  desired  add  clear, 
strong  coffee  to  the  starch.  Dry  in  the  open  air,  then 
put  them  through  thin  starch.  If  there  are  frames 
put  the  curtains  in  them ;  if  not,  tack  some  old  sheets 
on  the  floor  and  put  the  curtains  on  them,  being  care- 
ful to  pull  them  straight  and  to  have  each  point  drawn 
out  and  pinned  down.  Two  persons  are  almost  neces- 
sary for  this  part  of  the  work,  as  upon  the  careful 
stretching  and  pinning  depend  the  perfect  hanging 
and  finished  look  of  the  curtains.  Two  or  three  cur- 
tains may  be  placed  together.  Two  days'  time  is  re- 
quired to  dry  them  when  they  are  doubled  in  this 
manner.  Too  frequent  washing  is  a  mistake.  In- 
stead they  should  be  pinned  on  the  clothes  lines  on  a 
clear,  windy  day,  and  allowed  to  remain  until  all  the 
dust  has  been  whipped  out  of  them.  Then  they  may 
be  packed  away  for  the  summer  in  a  pillow  case, 
which  has  been  dipped  in  bluing  until  it  is  a  perfect 
indigo.  By  this  means  they  will  come  out  in  the  fall 
fresh  and  crisp. 

Muslin. — To  give  these  a  sheer  look  wash  in  bran 
water;  boil  two  quarts  of  wheat  bran  in  six  quarts  of 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

water  for  half  an  hour  and  strain  and  mix  in  the  water 
in  which  the  curtains  are  to  be  washed.  Unless  the 
curtains  are  very  soiled  use  no  soap  with  this  infusion 
or  starch,  either,  for  it  both  cleanses  and  stiffens. 
Rinse  lightly  in  clear,  cold  water.  Art  muslin  cur- 
tains should  be  washed  in  a  lather  made  with  hot 
water ;  when  nearly  cold  put  in  the  curtains.  If  there 
is  green,  add  a  little  vinegar;  if  lilac  or  pink,  a  little 
ammonia.  Salt  will  set  the  color  of  black  and  white 
muslin. 

Net. — If  damaged  by  wear,  baste  them  on  sheets 
before  washing.  (1)  Soak  the  curtains  over  night  in 
bran  water  (two  quarts  wheat  bran,  eight  quarts  water, 
boil  one-half  hour,  when  cold  strain)  ;  thin  bran  water 
with  cold  water  to  the  consistency  of  "starch  water/' 
wash  the  curtains,  using  no  soap;  while  damp  pin  to 
the  floor  and  stretch  gently  into  shape  along  the 
edges.  Cover  with  a  thin  damp  cloth  and  press  with 
a  warm  iron.  (2)  Place  half  a  curtain  at  a  time 
loosely  in  a  large,  strong,  paper  bag,  and  sprinkle  in 
a  pint  of  cornmeal;  then  shake  hard  for  about  ten 
minutes ;  then  shake  curtain  in  the  open  air  and  allow 
to  hang  there  awhile.  Use  fresh  meal  for  each  cur- 
tain. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Suggestion. — Very  thin  curtains  or  those  whose  day 
of  service  is  very  nearly  over  will  stand  the  ordeal 
of  washing  much  better  if  care  be  taken  to  baste  them 
upon  sheets  of  cheesecloth  first.  This  relieves  them 
of  much  of  the  strain  of  wringing  and  prevents 
them  from  being  whipped  to  pieces  by  the  wind  in  dry- 
ing. 

Embroidery. — For  doilies  and  small  centre  pieces 
use  any  pure  white  soap.  After  washing  and  rinsing 
in  slightly  blued  water,  stretch  them  upon  a  window, 
taking  care  that  every  scallop  and  petal  is  well 
smoothed,  and  let  them  dry;  they  require  no  ironing. 
Wash  embroidered  linens  for  the  first  time  before  cut- 
ting it  out.  After  washing  stretch  on  a  smooth  board, 
which  has  been  covered  first  with  a  piece  of  plain 
linen,  tacking  the  embroidery  quite  smoothly  and  se- 
curely. Leave  overnight,  laying  the  board  flat,  lest 
the  colors  run. 

For  colored  pieces  use  pure  white  soap,  making  a 
strong  lather  of  warm  suds  and  wash  quickly,  not 
rubbing  hard,  and  paying  special  attention  to  soiled 
spots.  Rinse  four  times  through  cold  water;  squeeze 
out  most  of  the  moisture  without  wringing  and  iron 
while  still  damp.  If  the  piece  is  too  heavy  to  iron 
without  long  drying  put  within  a  thick  Turkish  towel 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

and  press  out  most  of  the  moisture.  Sometimes  owing 
to  poor  .rinsing  after  a  first  washing,  the  color  of  the 
silk  will  stain  the  foundation  material ;  overcome  this 
by  keeping  on  rinsing  in  an  abundance  of  water. 

When  colored  embroidery  is  done  on  washing  silk 
it  should  be  put  through  a  soft  and  tepid  water,  dry- 
ing quickly  and  instead  of  ironing  the  material  should 
be  pulled  and  stretched  into  smoothness  and  tacked 
when  tightly  stretched  into  position ;  with  threads 
of  material  in  right  direction,  leave  until  entirely  dry. 
If  the  embroidery  itself  needs  pressing  run  a  moder- 
ately hot  iron  over  the  back  of  work. 

If  the  foundation  materials  are  too  dead  white  after 
laundering"  give  them  a  creamy  tint  by  dipping  in 
water  to  which  tea  or  coffee  has  been  added.  Iron 
on  the  wrong  side,  with  the  work  face  down  into  a 
thick  flannel  covered  with  fine  linen,  using  a  moder- 
ately hot  iron  and  pressing  each  part  until  dry.  The 
work  is  improved  by  making  a  pad  of  fine  organdie, 
wringing  it  out  of  hot  water  until  no  drops  can  fall 
from  it ;  then  press  it  on  back  of  embroidery  and  iron 
at  once,  moving  the  iron  slowly  and  not  taking  off  un- 
til all  moisture  from  the  pad  is  evaporated. 

As  tatting  cannot  be  properly  washed  to  look  as 
good  as  new,  because  it  is  almost  impossible  to  re- 
store the  picots  to  their  natural  shape,  soak  the  pieces 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

in  gasoline  and  while  wet  dust  them  with  cornstarch. 
Wrap  in  a  clean  towel  and  leave  for  several  hours; 
beat  the  towel  lightly,  lift  out  the  lace  and  shake  it 
free  of  starch;  press  the  picots  into  shape  and  iron 
lightly  on  the  wrong  side. 

Suggestion. — The  introduction  of  a  delicate  green 
thread  into  all  white  embroidery,  according  to  a  profes- 
sional embroiderer,  will  prevent  white  silk  from  turn- 
ing yellow  during  the  process  of  laundering.  The 
work  must  be  skilfully  done.  If  wrapped  in  blue  pa- 
per, linen  will  keep  in  good  condition.  With  cheaper 
grade  material  it  is  wise  to  set  the  color  by  soaking 
in  cold  salt  water  or  in  a  little  sugar  of  lead.  Never 
hang  colored  embroideries  in  the  sun  to  dry.  Noth- 
ing fades  them  more  quickly.  Fancy  work  laid  away 
for  the,  winter  should  be  rinsed  in  very  blue  water 
and  dried,  but  not  ironed.  If  the  pieces  are  placed  in 
black  or  blue  wrapping  paper  they  will  not  turn  yel- 
low. 

Handkerchiefs. — Soaking  over  night  in  well  salted 
water  will  make  washing  easier.  Dip  them  in  warm 
water.  Soap  each  one  on  both  sides,  fold  loosely  and 
put  them  in  a  pile  in  a  basin,  without  water,  to  soak 
for  an  hour  or  longer.  Rub  them  on  a  washboard 
with  a  large  nailbrush  dipped  in  hot  water,  boil  for  a 
few  minutes,  rinse  in  clear  water,  adding  a  little  borax 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

to  the  last  water;  only  when  the  day  is  windy  and 
there  is  frost  put  them  with  other  small  articles  to 
dry  in  a  pillow  case ;  the  fabric  is  spared  whipping  by 
the  wind,  they  will  freeze  dry  and  be  quickly  gath- 
ered for  ironing.  Those  that  have  become  discolored 
may  be  whitened  by  soaking  them  over  night  in  a 
solution  of  pipe  clay,  water,  or  of  cream  of  tartar, 
and  warm  water;  wash  in  usual  way.  Iron  handker- 
chief from  the  center.  Lay  flat  on  the  board,  make 
a  fold  two  inches  deep  across  the  handkerchief,  press 
it  in  lightly  with  the  iron,  and  then  make  another 
fold  across  the  first.  If  this  is  done,  each  handker- 
chief should  look  as  it  did  when  purchased. 

To  starch  handkerchiefs  put  six  drops  bluing  in 
two  quarts  water,  adding  raw  starch  the  size  of  a 
walnut;  let  it  dissolve,  with  none  settling  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bowl.  The  'handkerchiefs  having  been 
washed  and  dried  in  the  usual  way,  dip  each  one  sepa- 
rately, making  it  thoroughly  wet,  and  squeeze  it  as 
nearly  dry  as  possible  with  the  hand.  When  all 
have  been  treated  in  this  way,  lay  them  smoothly 
in  a  towel ;  then  iron. 

Lace  handkerchiefs  are  washed  in  warm  water  with 
pure  white  soap  and  a  little  ammonia.  Do  not  iron 
but  spread  out  smoothly  on  marble  or  glass,  gently 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

shaping  the  lace ;  before  it  is  entirely  dry,  fold  evenly 
and  smoothly,  and  place  under  a  weight. 

Silk  handkerchiefs  should  be  washed  by  themselves. 
Soak  in  cold  water  for  an  hour  or  so,  then  regularly 
wash  them  until  any  stains  have  disappeared.  When 
clear  rinse  in  soft,  cold  water,  in  which  about  half  a 
cup  of  salt  has  been  dissolved.  Rinse  again  in  water 
that  contains  a  little  bluing. 

Under  necessity  a  few  fancy  handkerchiefs  can  be 
washed  in  one's  room,  drying  them  on  the  bedroom 
mirror.  Put  on  a  glass  evenly. 

Laces. — Laces,  chiffons,  crepe  de  chine,  mousseline 
de  soie,  etc.,  should  be  rubbed,  not  squeezed.  Use 
a  suds  of  white  soap  and  warm  water;  soak  for  one- 
half  hour;  squeeze,  rinse,  dry  in  air  and  not  by  the 
fire  and  iron,  while  still  damp,  the  chiffon  and  very 
delicate  articles  between  layers  of  clean  tissue  pa- 
per. (2)  Or,  add  a  little  borax  or  ammonia  to  the 
suds.  Ruffles  and  laces  may  be  dipped  in  very  thin 
starch,  rolled  carefully  with  starched  portions  .in- 
side and  laid  aside  for  an  hour  before  ironing.  When 
goffering,  redampen  the  edges  before  passing  through 
the  rollers  after  first  ironing  the  garments.  If  cream 
color  is  wanted,  rinse  in  water  and  coffee — one  part 
coffee,  two  parts  water.  Ribbon  ruches  may  be  washed 

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by  merely  dipping  them  in  ammonia  and  water,  not 
squeezing  or  wringing,  but  patting  and  dipping  until 
clean. 

Wash  Battenberg  work  in  warm  water  and  starch 
in  hot  starch.  Then  pin  the  lace  and  each  corner  of 
the  fancy  work  to  clean  white  cloth  and  fasten  while 
the  piece  dries.  If  center  is  linen,  iron  with  flat- 
iron. 

Shirts,  Collars  and  Cuffs. — Starch  collars  the  even- 
ing before;  have  a  hot  iron;  pull  the  collar  into 
shape,  lay  flat  on  the  table,  and  iron  on  the  wrong 
side  until  about  half  dry.  If  the  iron  sticks,  either 
it  is  too  hot  or  too  cold,  or  the  collar  is  too  damp. 
Turn  over,  pull  into  shape,  and  iron  on  the  right  side 
with  strong  quick  strokes  until  quite  dry.  If  it  is 
pulled  properly  into  shape  jthere  should  not  be  a  sin- 
gle crease.  After  finishing  on  right  side  a  hot  iron 
can  be  run  along  the  wrong  side  to  round  it  into  shape. 
A  polishing  board  is  one  covered  with  one  thickness 
of  muslin  only.  Lay  the  collar  on  this,  wring  a  clean 
piece  of  muslin  out  of  cold  water,  rub  lightly  over 
the  right  side  of  the  collar  and  iron  again,  pressing 
hard  till  it  is  dry  and  glossy.  A  proper  polishing 
iron  is  much  better  for  this  than  an  ordinary  one.  If 
collars  get  too  dry,  sponge  them  lightly  with  cold 

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water  on  the  right  side  before  beginning  to  iron. — 
Iron  cuffs  in  the  same  way,  on  the  right  side  until 
nearly  dry,  then  iron  the  wrong  side.  When  dry  go 
over  the  right  side  with  a  damp  cloth  and  polish  with 
a  hot  iron. — To  iron  a  shirt:  Fold  it  lengthways 
from  the  gathers  of  the  yoke  to  the  tail,  and  iron 
both  sides  of  the  back.  After  this  the  wristbands 
should  be  ironed,  being  polished  if  necessary;  the 
sleeves  should  then  be  taken  in  hand  and  finished, 
care  being  taken  to  press  them  in  proper  shape.  When 
this  is  done  take  the  shirt  by  the  shoulders  and  turn 
it  front  uppermost  on  the  board,  with  the  collar  to 
the  left  hand;  after  putting  in  any  necessary  plaits 
in  the  back  insert  the  shirt-board  and  proceed  with 
the  front.  Before  commencing  to  iron,  the  front 
should  be  pulled  into  shape,  after  which  it  should  be 
ironed  until  thoroughly  dry,  doing  one  side  at  a  time 
and  being  careful  to  avoid  making  creases.  When  both 
sides  are  done  pin  the  collar  or  neckband  together  and 
run  the  iron  down  the  centre  and  across  the  base  of 
the  front,  afterward  ironing  the  remaining  unstarched 
portions  of  the  garment.  When  this  is  done  carefully 
turn  the  shirt  front  downward  on  the  board  and  fold 
pinning  the  shoulders  together  to  round  the  front 
somewhat.  Then  hang  before  the  fire  to  thoroughly 
dry  and  harden  the  work.  When  the  fronts  have  to 

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be  polished  the  convex  iron  should  be  made  as  hot  as 
possible  short  of  scorching  the  goods,  and  at  the  point 
previously  mentioned,  instead  of  pinning  the  collar 
together  take  out  the  flannel  and  put  in  a  board  cov- 
ered with  one  thickness  of  linen  only,  and  after  damp- 
ing the  surface  of  one-half  the  front,  polish  with  the 
convex  iron  by  quickly  passing  it  across  from  side 
to  side,  and  then  from  base  to  collar,  using  consider- 
able pressure  and  working  with  the  back  of  the  iron 
as  far  as  possible.  Treat  the  other  half  of  the  front 
in  a  similar  manner;  pin  the  collar  and  proceed  to 
finish  as  before — of  course,  removing  the  board.  When 
properly  polished  the  fronts  should  be  as  smooth  and 
shiny  as  china,  and  the  polish  should  stand  without 
dulling  off.  Shirts  or  front  having  raised  patterns 
are  ironed  to  the  polishing  point,  then  damped  down 
on  the  surface  and  covered  with  a  fine  linen  cloth, 
after  which  they  are  ironed  until  dry.  After  ironing 
place  by  the  fire  till  perfectly  dry;  this  quick  dry  in- 
sures their  being  as  stiff  as  possible. 

Silks. — White  and  colored  silks  must  be  washed 
separately.  If  there  is  danger  of  colors  running,  col- 
ored silks  should  be  soaked  thirty  minutes  in  salted 
water  to  set  the  color.  The  druggists  carry  chemi- 

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cals  for  the  same  purpose.  Different  colors  should 
be  washed  separately. 

The  following  points  are  to  be  remembered:  1. 
The  water  for  washing  must  be  tepid,  never  hot. 
2.  Never  rub  soap  on  the  silk;  instead,  melt  a  mild 
soap  in  the  water.  Use  a  little  borax  in  the  first  water 
if  fabric  is  very  dirty.  3.  Never  use  washing  pow- 
der or  soda,  and  never  use  ammonia  except  for  white 
silks.  4.  Never  twist  or  wring  the  garment  in  the 
hands;  put  through  a  wringer.  5.  Use  plenty  of  cold 
water  for  the  rinsing,  using  a  little  salt  in  water  for 
light  colors  and  vinegar  for  dark. 

Generally  it  is  not  necessary  to  starch  silks  but  if 
stiffness  is  wanted  they  may  be  put  into  very  thin  hot 
starch;  or  put  through  gum  arabic  water  (one  ounce 
dissolved  in  boiling  water,  used  in  proportion  of  one 
teaspoonful  to  one-half  pint  water).  Don't  sprinkle. 
Iron  at  once  while  wet  on  right  side  first  with  a  dry 
cloth  between  it  and  the  iron  and  then  without,  using 
a  cool  (not  hot)  iron.  If  the  silk  should  feel  in  the 
least  stiff  or  hard,  shake  it  out,  rub  it  between  the 
hands  and  iron  again.  Some  silks  such  as  the  corded 
silks,  are  better  kept  covered  all  the  time,  as  the  iron 
gives  them  a  glaze  which  is  not  suitable;  discretion 
must  be  used.  To  gloss  silk  wash  as  above  adding 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  methylated  spirits  to  a  basin 

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of  water;  fold  smooth  and  pass  through  wringer  sev- 
eral times  between  folds  of  thin  cloth ;  shake  out  and 
wrap  in  a  dry  towel  for  one  hour  before  ironing. 
White  silk  underwear  may  be  pinned  on  a  towel  and 
hung  on  the  line. 

Special  Hints. — Pongee. — Make  a  mild  suds  of  white 
soap  and  lukewarm  water  (dissolve  one-half  cake 
soap  in  two  quarts  boiling  water;  dissolve  and  strain 
to  avoid  lumps)  ;  don't  rub,  squeeze  the  goods ;  rinse 
in  three  or  more  tepid  waters;  wring  with  moderate 
pressure,  shake  out  and  hang  in  the  shade.  Don't 
starch  or  blue;  iron  on  the  wrong  side  while  still 
damp,  using  as  cool  an  iron  as  will  remove  the  wrinkles 
and  have  ironing  board  well  padded:  reiron  if  any 
streaks  appear.  If  the  garment  is  embroidered  in 
colors  it  may  be  cleaned. with  gasoline. 

White  Chiffon. — Let  chiffon  soak  in  the  suds  one 
hour.  After  rinsing  and  squeezing  out  the  water 
dissolve  a  little  gum  in  a  teacupful  of  water  and  dip 
the  chiffon  into  it;  then  lay  it  between  the  folds  of  a 
clean  cloth  and  pat  it  with  the  hand.  Cover  with  a 
piece  of  tissue  paper  and  iron  while  still  damp  with 
a  warm  iron.  Colored  chiffons  may  be  washed  in  the 
same  way,  but  for  them  add  a  few  drops  of  vinegar 
to  the  gum  water  to  set  the  color. 

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Dark  Silks. — To  wash  black  and  fast  colored  China 
and  taffeta  silks,  put  one  quart  household  ammonia 
into  twelve  quarts  warm  water,  in  which  suds  have 
been  made  with  pure  white  soap.  Wash  the  fadeless 
silks  in  this  and  rinse  thoroughly  in  clear,  soft  water ; 
iron  before  material  is  quite  dry  on  the  wrong  side 
with  a  moderately  hot  iron.  A  little  ammonia  in  the 
rinse  water  is  good  for  brown  or  black  silks. 

Silk  Ribbons. — Make  carefully  a  thick  suds  of  warm 
water  and  pure  white  soap  and  wash  the  ribbons 
lengthwise,  lifting  them  up  and  down  in  the  water, 
changing  waters  if  necessary ;  hang  up  to  dry  and  iron 
when  well  dried  between  sheets  of  tissue  paper.  (2) 
Or,  while  still  wet,  iron  on  the  right  side  with  a  hot 
iron  and  when  dry  rub  between  the  hands,  as  if  wash- 
ing it,  until  all  the  stiffness  is  out  of  it,  then  iron  again 
to  remove  the  wrinkles.  (3)  Lay  white  ribbon  on  a 
table  and  scrub  it  using  soap  and  water  and  a  brush 
with  stiff  bristles.  When  cleaned,  rinse  beneath  the 
spigot,  squeezing  out  the  water  between  the  fingers 
without  creasing  the  material,  and  hang  over  a  line. 
Suggestion — When  washing  white  or  colored  ribbons, 
add  one  teaspoonful  of  methylated  spirits  to  a  pint  of 
cold  water  and  rinse  the  ribbon  through  to  make  it 
look  like  new. 

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Table  Linens. — First  remove  all  stains.  Use  only 
the  cleanest  waters.  First  immerse  articles  in  cold 
water;  don't  rub;  rinse  carefully  and  boil  fifteen  min- 
utes in  a  rich  suds;  rinse  thoroughly  in  at  least  two 
waters;  wring  by  hand  or  with  rollers  fairly  loose; 
dry  in  the  open  air,  hanging  all  pieces  evenly  with 
weight  on  warp  threads.  Fine  table  cloths  should 
be  hung  to  prevent  whipping  in  the  wind.  Two 
parallel  lines  may  be  used,  throwing  the  selvage  end 
over  one  (toward  the  other),  allowing  it  to  hang  down 
about  a  quarter  of  a  yard  and  being  careful  to  pin  it  a 
short  distance  from  the  ends.  Take  the  opposite  side 
and  throw  it  over  the  other  line,  facing  the  first  line, 
and  pin  it  in  the  same  manner.  This  will  form  a  sort 
of  bag,  and  will  prevent,  to  a  considerable  extent, 
the  wild  blowing  of  the  table  cloth  in  windy  weather. 

A  washing  fluid  may  be  used,  made  by  adding  to 
the  water  in  the  boiler  one  and  one-half  dessertspoon- 
fuls of  turpentine  and  one  dessertspoonful  of  ammonia. 
(2)  Or,  a  little  refined  borax  may  be  used  instead  of 
this  fluid.  But  pure  soap,  clean  water  and  lots  of  it 
and  air  and  sunshine  are  the  best.  (3)  Some  authori- 
ties recommend  for  fine  linens  and  embroidered  doi- 
lies no  boiling,  only  cold  water,  white  soap,  and  borax, 
if  not  a  borax  soap.  (4)  Or,  boiling  lemon  peel  with 
white  tea  towels.  (5)  If  linen  has  become  yellow, 

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pour  into  a  good  hot  suds  a  quart  of  milk  about  nearly 
sour  and  stir  well.  Put  the  linen  into  the  mixture, 
and  leave  it  there  four  hours;  then  wash  and  boil  in 
the  usual  way. 

If  quick  washing  is  needed  to  be  done  to  provide 
for  immediate  use — wash  the  linen  as  usual,  then  dip 
it  in  hot  water  and  shake  it  well ;  fold  as  well  as  pos- 
sible and  run  it  through  the  wringer ;  then  wrap  it  in 
a  dry,  white  cloth,  and  iron  at  once  without  starch- 
ing. Or,  take  a  sponge  of  good  size,  or  cloth,  wet  and 
wring  nearly  dry,  press  the  sponge  over  the  surface 
of  the  linen  and  then  follow  up  with  the  iron.  It 
will  give  a  smooth,  glossy  surface  not  excelled  even 
by  that  found  in  long-sprinkled  linens. 

Table  linen  is  not  starched,  starching  yellows  it, 
and  the  pieces  will  mildew  readily  in  warm  weather. 
As  a  substitute,  dissolve  one  ounce  of  gum  arabic  in 
half  a  pint  of  warm  water.  Add  one  tablespoonful 
of  the  solution  to  a  quart  of  water  and  wring  out  the 
linens  in  the  mixture.  In  order  to  bring  out  the 
bright  gloss  that  makes  table  linen  so  attractive,  it 
should  be  dampened  very  considerably.  Sprinkle  ta- 
ble-cloths very  freely,  being  sure  that  the  selvage  ends 
or  hemstitched  borders  are  thoroughly  damp.  Roll 
"up  tightly  to  spread  the  dampness1.  The  napkins  and 
doilies  may  be  arranged  alternately  one  upon  the 

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other — first  a  napkin  dry  from  the  line,  then  one 
which  has  been  wrung  out  in  warm  water,  then  a  dry 
napkin,  and  following  it  another  wrung  out  in  hot 
water,  and  so  on;  then  roll  tightly  together.  Iron 
while  still  wet  with  a  hot  iron  first  on  the  wrong  side 
to  throw  up  the  pattern,  and  then  on  the  right  to  pol- 
ish. If  ironed  dry  the  linen  will  get  fuzzy.  The 
linen  should  be  perfectly  dry  when  finished.  The 
ironing  should  begin  down  the  middle  folding  table- 
cloths exactly  opposite  from  the  way  they  hung  on 
the  line  to  make  them  wear  longer,  or  for  the  same 
purpose  they  may  be  folded  each  time  in  a  different 
way  to  vary  the  creases.  If  a  distinct  crease  is  desired 
fold  the  cloth  so  that  the  edges  meet  and  the  crease 
is  exactly  down  the  middle,  and  iron  to  crease  it. 
To  keep  a  cloth  in  this-  condition  it  must  be  pulled 
very  even  before  ironing,  and  ironed  very  carefully 
and  very  dry  on  both  sides.  Then,  with  a  fold  once, 
not  creased,  it  may  be  rolled  around  rolls  of  paper 
kept  for  the  purpose. 

To  stiffen  serviettes  without  starch :  Wash  and  dry 
them  in  the  ordinary  way.  Immediately  before  iron- 
ing dip  them  into  boiling  water,  and  wring  out  be- 
tween two  cloths  that  have  been  starched;  then  iron 
with  as  hot  irons  as  can  be  used  without  scorching. 

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They  will  have  a  beautiful  gloss  and  be  just  stiff 
enough. 

Wash  embroidered  linen  in  a  strong  suds  of  Castile 
or  good  white  soap  and  lukewarm  water;  rinse  imme- 
diately in  lukewarm  water,  then  in  water  slightly 
blued,  and  hang  them  up  to  dry.  When  half  dry  lay 
them  smoothly  on  a  clean  cloth  doubled,  or  laid  over 
a  piece  of  white  canton  flannel,  and  press  them  on 
the  wrong  side  with  a  hot  iron  until  they  are  dry.  If 
the  linens  are  fringed  carefully  comb  out  the  fringe 
with  a  coarse  comb.  If  worked  in  colors,  they  are  too 
delicate  for  ordinary  washing.  It  is  therefore  best 
to  do  them  separately,  and  to  obtain  the  best  results, 
they  must  be  dipped  up  and  down  in  tepid  soapsuds, 
hung  to  dry  indoors,  and  ironed  when  half  dry. 

Doilies,  tray  cloths,  etc.,  should  be  washed  by  them- 
selves, using  a  better  quality  of  soap.  Do  not  boil ; 
rinse  thoroughly.  Then  spread  them  smoothly  over 
a  towel  or  sheet,  and  roll  tightly.  Begin  at  once  to 
iron  them  on  the  wrong  side  with  an  extremely  hot 
iron. 

To  wash  a  chenille  tablecloth,  boil  one-half  pint 
bran  in  two  quarts  water  for  half  an  hour ;  to  this  add 
cold  water  to  cool  to  the  right  heat  for  holding  the 
hands  in  comfortably  and  then  wash  the  cloth  in  it, 
using  no  soap.  If  the  cloth  be  much  soiled,  make 

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more  bran  water  and  use  it  undiluted  when  sufficient- 
ly cool.  More  or  less  bran  water  from  same  bran  will 
be  needed,  according  to  the  size  of  the  cloth.  If  the 
bran  be  inclosed  in  a  muslin  bag  the  trouble  of  strain- 
ing will  be  obviated. 

To  wash  red  table  linen,  put  enough  powdered  borax 
into  tepid  soft  water  to  make  it  feel  slippery.  Use  no 
soap.  Rinse  in  warm  water  containing  a  small  quan- 
tity of  boiled  starch.  Hang  in  the  shade  and  iron 
when  nearly  dry. 

Suggestions. — Iron  rust  on  linen  may  be  caused  by 
careless  rinsing  which  leaves  soap  in  the  linen.  Col- 
ored embroidery  should  never  be  put  into  hot  water; 
it  will  fade. 

Waists. — Wash  lingerie  waists  like  silk ;  a  little  blu- 
ing in  the  last  rinse  water  if  material  is  white.  Don't 
boil;  rinse  carefully;  don't  put  through  wringer;  if 
not  to  be  starched,  hang  in  the  sun  to  dry;  other- 
wise, indoors.  Iron  like  silk  with  moderately  hot 
iron  with  cloth  between  waist  and  iron.  Iron  sleeves 
first  on  sleeve  board;  tucks  and  plain  part  next  on 
right  side,  then  front,  starting  at  the  shoulders,  back 
and  collar  last;  iron  lace  and  embroidery  on  wrong 
side.  When  ironing  the  back  plait  with  the  buttons, 

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lay  on  flannel  or  Turkish  towel  and  the  buttons  will 
sink  in.  Hang  to  dry  on  coat  hanger. 

Starch  with  thin  cold  starch  or  a  starch  made  with 
two  teaspoonfuls  starch  in  a  little  cold  water  over 
which  is  poured  one  pint  boiling  water;  stir  until 
smooth ;  add  a  drop  of  bluing ;  dip,  wring  out  at  once 
and  hang  out  to  dry. 

Suggestions. — For  white  linen  waist  pipe  clay  may 
be  used  in  place  of  soap.  A  variety  of  colors  may  be 
had  with  the  same  waist  by  using  colored  starch. 
This  is  procurable  in  small  packages  of  pink,  light 
blue  and  heliotrope,  and  washes  out  completely.  It 
is  perfectly  simple  to  use  and  seems  to  have  no  par- 
ticular tendency  to  streak  or  spot. 

White  Goods. — These  should  be  washed  first  in  a 
general  "wash" — clean  water  and  fresh  suds  both  in 
tubs  and  boiler.  In  making  the  suds  it  has  been  rec- 
ommended to  dissolve  one  bar  of  good  soap  in  three 
pints  water  and  then  add  one-half  cupful  powdered 
borax,  using  this  in  tubs  and  boiler.  No  rubbing 
should  be  necessary  except  for  dirtiest  pieces.  Can 
be  soaked  over  night  before  washing.  Some  South- 
ern laundresses  tie  a  lump  of  arrowroot  in  a  thick 
cotton  cloth  and  boil  it  with  the  fine  white  pieces  to 

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give  them  a  dainty  odor  more  delightful  than  from 
sachet  powder. 

Woollens. — Blankets. — Make  a  good  lather.  Pour 
one  pint  boiling  water  on  one-half  bar  shaved  white 
soap ;  put  over  the  fire  and  stir  till  thick.  After  which 
add  to  this  soap  jelly  one  teaspoonful  of  borax  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  ammonia.  Soften  a  tubful  of 
tepid  water  with  one  tablespoonful  of  borax.  Stir 
into  this  the  soap  mixture,  then  put  in  blankets, 
let  them  soak  one  hour,  occasionally  turning  them 
over.  Rinse  through  clear,  tepid  water,  adding  a  lit- 
tle ammonia.  Rinse  through  the  second  tepid  water 
to  remove  all  soap,  being  careful  all  through  this 
process  never  to  rub  with  the  hands  and  using  loose 
rolled  wringer,  from  tub  to  tub.  Before  hanging  out, 
shake  from  the  four  corners  to  raise  the  wool.  When 
half  dry  turn  it  over  to  sun  the  other  side.  When 
nearly  dry  turn  it  so  the  borders  hang  down.  Keep 
moving  until  perfectly  dry,  shaking  well  each  time  it 
is  moved.  This  prevents  creasing  and  the  stiff  feel- 
ing. A  light  beating  with  clean  carpet  beater  will 
soften  and  raise  the  wool.  Before  washing  look  over 
for  spots  putting  a  safety  pin  in  each  to  mark  it ;  these 
places  can  be  lightly  rubbed  between  the  hand  until 
the  spots  disappear. 

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CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

To  wash  a  cotton  blanket,  set  the  color  by  sousing 
the  blanket  in  cold  salt  water,  then  washing  quickly 
with  white  soap  and  tepid  water.  Rinse  in  tepid 
water,  shake  and  dry  in  the  shade. 

Flannels. — Make  wash  suds  as  for  wool  blankets; 
don't  soap  or  rub  them,  and  don't  soak  very  long. 
Use  warm  or  cold  water,  but  to  prevent  shrinking  do 
not  let  the  temperature  of  the  water  change  during 
the  process.  Rinse  in  clear  water  of  same  tempera- 
ture as  the  suds;  squeeze  out  the  water;  pull  into 
shape  and  dry  quickly  in  the  air  or  a  warm  room ; 
don't  let  them  freeze.  (2)  Instead  of  soap  a  handful 
of  washing  soda  in  a  tub  of  water  is  used ;  it  removes 
body  grease  and  the  odor.  Very  dirty  spots  may  be 
cleaned  with  an  ordinary  brush.  (3)  Wool  skirts 
and  children's  dresses  may  be  washed  with  naphtha 
soap  suds.  Press  with  a  warm  (not  hot)  iron  before 
fully  dry  with  cloth  between  iron  and  flannel. 

Wool  Garments. — Follow  above  directions  as  to 
suds ;  rinse  well ;  squeeze  out  some  of  the  water  but 
hang  out  quite  wet;  taking  care  to  hang  on  line  so 
they  will  not  be  drawn  out  of  shape;  don't  wring. 
They  do  not  need  ironing;  press  with  cool  iron.  A 
little  vinegar  in  the  rinse  water  will  brighten  the 

206 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

color  if  needed.  Colored  woollens  should  not  be 
soaked  but  washed  quickly  and  no  two  colors  should 
go  into  the  same  water.  Wash  sweaters  like  flannels. 

Fixing  Colors. — Blue  color  is  fixed  by  adding 
one  gill  vinegar  to  two  gallons  water;  used  before 
washing.  Or,  soak  blue  fabrics  two  hours  in  one 
part  water  with  one  ounce  sugar  of  lead;  let  fabric 
dry  perfectly  before  washing  and  ironing.  Or,  salt 
as  below. 

Salt  dissolved  in  water  will  set  nearly  all  colors 
in  cotton  and  linen — 1  cup  salt  to  one  gallon  water. 
Give  garments  fast  washing  in  the  solution.  Silks 
may  be  soaked  for  some  time.  Organdies,  chambrays, 
fine  cambrics,  wash  fast  in  clear  water  with  salt. 
Ginghams  and  calicos  should  be  put  into  hot  salt 
water  and  left  until  cold;  then  wash.  Light  colors, 
soak  ten  to  fifteen  minutes ;  hanging  in  shade  to  dry ; 
then  wash.  For  silk  a  solution  of  less  salt  will  an- 
swer. 

Alum. — Two  ounces  to  two  gallons  water — will  pre- 
vent green  from  fading.  Use  cold  and  soak  six  hours. 
In  rinse  water  will  restore  faded  color.  Piece  size  of 
a  hickory  nut  dissolved  in  a  pint  of  starch,  will 
brighten  the  colors  on  colored  muslins  and  ginghams, 
after  washing. 

207 


CLEANING  AND  RENOVATING  AT  HOME 

Sugar  of  lead  (above)  will  set  colors  in  wash  goods. 

A  spoonful  of  oxgall  to  a  pail  of  water  will  set  the 
color  of  almost  any  material  if  soaked  in  it  before 
washing. 

Vinegar  in  the  rinsing  water  of  pink  and  green 
goods  will  set  and  brighten  the  color. 

Soda  will  set  and  brighten  violet,  blue,  lavender, 
purple  and  mauve  prints  and  muslins. 

A  spoonful  of  oxgall  to  a  gallon  of  water  will  set 
the  colors  of  almost  any  goods  soaked  in  it  previous 
to  washing.  It  is  good  for  gray  and  brown. 

Vinegar  and  also  ammonia  in  the  wash  water  will 
preserve  color  of  black  stockings. 

Vinegar  in  the  rinse  water  for  pink  or  green  cali- 
cos will  brighten  them. 

Strong  tea  and  also  hay-water,  made  by  pouring 
boiling  water  over  hay,  is  excellent  for  washing  tan 
or  brown  linen  and  will  preserve  the  color  of  French 
linens  also. 

Ammonia  and  borax  will  set  colors  of  wash  goods. 

One  tablespoonful  of  black  pepper  stirred  into  the 
first  water  in  which  gray  or  buff  linen  is  washed  will 
prevent  its  spotting;  and  also  prevent  colors  running 
in  cambrics  and  muslins.  It  will  not  affect  the  soft- 
ness of  the  water. 


208 


INDEX 


INDEX 


Acetic  acid,  19,  31 

Acid   stains,  31,   36,  52 

Acids,  effect  on  cotton,    18,  34 

Alcohol  and  chloroform  mixture,  19 

Alcohol,  use  of,  19 

Alkalies,  stains  from,  20 

Alkaline    liquids    and    animal    fibre 

fabrics,    18,    32 
Alsatian  starch  luster,  171 
Ammonia,  soap,  etc.,  mixture,  20 
Ammonia,  use  of,  18-20,  32 
Animal    fibre    fabrics,    cleaning    of, 

18-20,  31-33  e 
Antibenzinpyrin,  12,  14 
Arts,    English    Society    of,   cleaning 

fluid  for  silks  given  prize  by,  131 

B 

Bags,  leather,  to  clean,  118,  119 

Battenberg  lace,  to  clean,  108 

Battenberg    lace,    to    wash,    193 

Bedding,    to   wash,   180 

Bed  linens,  to  cleanse,  34 

Bedford  cord,  to  clean,  60 

Belts,  leather,  to  clean,  119 

Benzine,  gelatinized,  13 

Benzine  soaps,  14 

Benzine  solvents,  13 

Benzine,  use  of,  10-19 

Benzinized    magnesia,    14 

Benzol,   use  of,  10,  13,  14 

Black    cottons,    to   wash,    184 

Black     fabrics,     to     remove     spots,. 

grease,  and  stains  from,  21,  28 
Black  lace,  to  freshen,   112 
Black  lace,  to  wash,  112 
Black    lawn,    to   wash,    184 
Black  leathers,  restorative  and  pre- 
servative  for,   121 
Black  messaline,  to  freshen,  136 


Black  satin,  to  renovate,  129 

Black  silk,   to  clean,  133 

Black  silk,  to  stiffen,  134 

Blankets,   to  wash,   205 

•Bleaching,    bluing,    175 

Bleaching  curtains,   60 

Bleaching  feathers,  91 

Bleaching  lace,   109 

Bleaching  linens,  35,  60 

'Bleaching   muslins,    faded,   60 

Bleaching  silk,  137 

Bleaching   straw  hats,   106 

Bleaching  white  flannel,  64 

•Bleaching  white  goods,  60,  61 

Blood  stains,  36.  37 

Blouses,  to  freshen,  62 

•Blue  duck,  to  clean,  62 

Bluing,    bleaching,    175 

Bluing    clothes,   161,   167   it   seq. 

Bluing  stains,  45 

'Boiler,  wash,  care  of,  163 

Boiling   clothes,    165 

Bolster,   to   wash,   180 

Bootees,  chamois,   to  cleStt,  122 

Borax,  camphorate.d,  21 

Borax,   use   of,  21,  163 

(Brannt,  Wm.  T.,  quoted,  16,  57,  58 

Brass  stains,  37 

Brooches,  to  clean,  152 

Buckskin,  to  clean,  101 


Camphor  and  borax  mixture,  20 
Camphorated   borax,   21 
Carbon  tetrachloride,  use  of,  12,  14 
Carpet   cleaning  compounds,  70-74 
Carpet  cleaning  and  renovating,  73 

et  seq. 

Carpets,  musty,   74 
Carpets,  sticky   spots  on,  75 
Carpets,  to  dye,  75 
Carpets,  to  remove  stains  from,  75 


211 


INDEX 


Carpets,  to  size,  70 

Chains,  to  clean,  153 

Chair    covers,    cretonne,    to    clean, 

86 

Challies,    to    wash,    188 
Chamois  skin  bootees,  to  clean,  122 
Chamois  skin  gloves,  to  wash,  10O 
Chamois  skins,   to  clean,  100,   117, 

122 

Chest   protector,  to  clean,  117 
Chiffon  hats,   to  freshen,  101 
Chiffon  hats,    to    remove    wrinkles 

from,  135 

Chiffon,  to  dry-clean,   131 
Chiffon,  to  wash,  131,  197 
Chiffon  veils,  to  clean,  148,  149 
Chiffon  veils,   to  dye,,   149 
Chiffon  velvet,  to  clean  felt  hats  and 

silk  skirts  with,  106 
China  silk,  to  clean,  125,  134 
Chloroform,  use  of,  21 
Chocolate    stains,    37-39 
Citric  acid,   21,  23 
Cleaning  fluid  for  silks,  131 
Cleaning  liquids,  bottling  and  care 

of,    10,   18 
Cleaning  paste,  22 
Clothes  line,  care  of,  163 
Coats,   to   renovate,   68 
Coffee  stains,  87-39,   131,  136 
Coffee,   to   sponge  with,   22 
Collars  and  cuffs,  to  iron,  193,  194 
Collars,  coat,  to  clean,  69,  150 
Collars,    to    starch,    173 
Collars,  to  wash,   166,  182 
Color,  stains,  39 
Color,  test  of,  20 
Color,  to  restore,  24,  59,  137 
Colored    cottons,    to    wash,    181    et 

seq. 

Colored   cottons,   treating,   35 
Colored    curtains,    to   clean,   83 
Colors,  to  brighten,  208 
Colors,  to  fix,  207  et  seq. 
Colors,  to  restore.,  183,  °X)7 
Combustible  substances,  9 
Comfortables,   to  wash,   180 
Corduroy,   to  clean,  142 
Cornmeal,    to   clean   with,    22 
Cornstarch,  used  in  laundering,  183' 
Corsets,   to   clean,   142 
Cotton,  effect  of  acids  on,  18 


Cotton  fabrics,   restoring  colors  of, 

59 
Cottons,    colored,   to  wash,   181   et 

seq. 

Couch    covers,    to    wash,    184 
"Country  Life  in  America,"  quoted, 

79,   80 

Cream  of  tartar  and  citric  acid  mix- 
ture,  23 
Creased    silk    ribbons,    to   renovate, 

126 
Crepe   de    Chine,   to  remove   stains 

from,   135 

Crepe,  to  clean,  149 
Crepe,    to    renovate,    62 
Cretonne  chair  covers,  to  clean,  86 
Cuffs,   to   iron,    194 
Curtains,  bleaching,  82 
Curtains,   cleaning   and    renovating, 

82  et  seq. 

Curtains,  colored,   to  wash,  184 
Curtains,  lace,  to  wash,  185,   186 
Curtains,    muslin,    to   wash,    186 
Curtains,  net,  to  wash,   187 
Curtains,   to   wash,   184   et   seq. 


Darkest   fabric   to   be   cleaned   last, 

16 

Diamonds,  to  clean,  154 
Dresses,   muslin,    to   wash,    182 
Dry   process    of    cleaning,   9,    12-17, 

65,   88,    103,    109,    115,    135 
Dry  shampoo,  15 
Dust    stains,    132 
Dye,    laundry,    174 
Dyed   fabrics,   19,  31 
"Dyeing    and    Cleaning,"    Geo.    H. 

Hurst,  la 


Ecru  net  curtains,  to  clean,  83 
Egg   stains,   39 
Egg,    to   clean   with,    23 
Eiderdown,    90 

Eiderdown   quilt,  to  wash,   180 
Embossed  leather,   to  clean,   118 
Embroidery,  care  of,  in  laundering, 
190 


212 


INDEX 


Embroidery,   to   wash,   188,   202 
Embroideries,    to    clean,    143 
Erasive    fluid,    67 
Ether,    sulphuric,   23,   24 
Ether,    use    of,   23,   26 
Evaporation,  to  prevent,   10 
"Excellent"   cleaner,  24 


Fabrics  for  which  dry-cleaning  is 
suitable,  16 

Fans,   lace,    to   clean,   143 

Fat,  solvents  which  dissolve,  13 

Feather    boas,    to   clean,   9O 

Feather   boas,   to   curl,   90 

Feathers,  bed  or  pillow,  to  reno- 
vate, 91 

Feathers,    bleaching,    91 

Feathers,  cleaning  and  renovating, 
91  et  seq. 

Felt  hat,  to  renovate,  103 

Felt,    to   clean,   103 

Fibre   rugs,   81 

Filigree,   silver,   to  clean,   153 

Filter    paper,   10> 

Flannels,  to  remove  stains  from, 
64 

Flannels,   to   wash,  206 

Flannels,  white,  see  under  White 

Flour,  to  clean  with,  22 

Flowers,   artificial,    to   freshen,    144 

Fly   paper  stains,  39 

Fruit   stains,   40-41 

Fur  rugs,   81,   94 

Furs,    cleaning,  93  et  seq. 

Furs,   freshening,   94 

Fuse  oil,  24 


Gloves,  chamois  skin,  to  wash,  100 

Gloves,   gauntlet,   102 

Gloves,  suggestions  concerning,  102 

Gloves,  to  clean,  14,  96  et  seq. 

Gloves,   to   remove   stains   from,   99 

Gloves,  to  renovate,  dark  kid,  99 

Gloves,  washable  kid,  99 

Gloves,   white,    to   tint,  96 

Gloves,  white,  to  wash,  101 

Glycerin,  25 

Glycerin  and  soft  soap  mixture,  25 

Gold,  dull,  to  clean.  153 

Gold  lace,  to  dry-clean,  115 

Gold  lace,   to  freshen,   113 

Gold   lace,   to   wash,    114 

Gold,  to  clean,  152 

Grain,  alcohol,  19;  see  Alcohol 

Grass   stains,   41,   42 

Grease  stains,  to  remove,  15,  22, 
42-45,  63,  76,  117,  132,  140,  145, 
182 

Grimy  appearance  of  clothes,  to  re- 
move, 34 

Gum   Arabic   starch,   172,   183 

Gum  stains,  45 

H 

Hair  stains,  132 

Handkerchiefs,    to   wash    and    iron, 

166,  176,  190,  191 
Hanging  clothes,  167 
Hangings,   faded,  to  clean,  86 
Harland,    Marion,    quoted,    11 
Hats,  cleaning  and  renovating,   103 

et   seq. 

Hectograph  ink   stains,  48 
Hurst,  Geo.  H.,  quoted,  18,  57,  58 


Gasoline,  benzine  not  distinguished 

from,  13 
Gasoline;     method     of     dry-cleaning 

ostrich  feathers,  87 
Gasoline,   repeated  use  of,   10 
Gauntlets,   to  clean,  102 
Gelatinized    benzine,    see    Benzine, 

gelatinized 
Gems,    transparent,    to    clean,    151 

et  seq. 
Ginghams,  to  freshen,  61 


Ice  cream  soda  stains,  45 

Indelible  ink  stains,  49 

India  ink  stains,  49 

Indigo  stains,  45 

Ink  stains,  21,  26,  45-48,  75 

Iodine   stains,  49 

Ironing,  175  et  seq. 

Ironing   boards,    care    of,    164 

Ironing    clothesf    159    et    seq. 

Ironing  suggestions,  178 

Ironing  tucked  material,  178 


213 


INDEX 


Iron   rust,   cause   of,   166,  203 
Irons,    care   of,    177 
Irons,  to  clean,   177 
Irons,    use    of,    177 
Ivory,   to  clean,   158 


Javelle  water,  25,  26 
Jet,  to  clean,  154,  155 
Jewelry,    cleaning,   151    et   seq. 


Kerosene  used  in  washing   clothes, 

159,  162 

Kid  gloves,  see   Gloves 
Kid  shoes,  to  clean,  122 


Lace  curtains,  to  clean,  82 

Lace   curtains,    to   tint,   83 

Lace  curtains,  to  wash,  185 

Lace  handkerchiefs,  to  wash  and 
iron,  191 

Lace,    starch    for,   115 

Lace,  to  bleach,   109 

Lace,  to  clean  and  renovate,  107 
et  seq. 

Lace,  to  clean  with  powder,  109 

Lace,   to   dry-clean,    109 

Lace,  to  restore,  110 

Lace,  to  sponge,   116 

Lace,  to  tint,  111 

Lace  yokes,  to  clean,  113 

Laces,   to  wash  and  iron,  192,  193 

Lampblack   stains,   50 

Laundry   dye,    174 

Laundry,  the,  159  et  seq. 

Laundry,  the  process  of,  165  et  seq. 

Leather,   to  wash,   117 

Leathers  and  leather  goods,  clean- 
ing and  renovating,  117  et  seq. 

Leghorn,  to  clean,   104 

Lemon  juice  and  salt  mixture,  26 

Linen  blinds,  to  clean  and  stiffen, 
84 

Linen   dresses,   spots   on,   59 

Linens,  table,  to  iron,  201 

Linens,  table,  to  wash,  199  et  seq. 

Linens,  to  bleach,  35,  59 


Linens,  to  wash,  165 
Linoleum,  to  clean,   76-78 
Lye,   etc.,   use  of,  26 


Mackintoshes,  to  clean,  soften,  and 
mend,  145 

Magnesia  method  of  dry-cleaning 
ostrich  feathers,  87 

Mattings,  76 

Mattresses,  to  remove,  stains  from, 
146 

Medicine  stains,  50 

Men's    clothing,    renovating,    68 

Messaline,   black,   to  freshen,   136 

Mildew,   50-61 

Milk,  use  of,  26 

Mineral  oil  or  wax  spots  on  wool- 
lens, 63 

Mitts,   silk,  101 

Morocco   leather,    to   clean,    119 

Mother-of-pearl  buckle,  to  clean, 
152 

Moths,  to  prevent,  24 

Mud  stains,  51,  132 

Muslin  curtains,  to  wash,  186 

Muslins,  faded,   to  bleach,  60 

N 

Nap  on  cloth,  to  raise  the,  69 
Napkins,   to   iron,   176 
Napkins,  to  wash,  166 
Neckties,  to  clean,  144 
Net   curtains,   to  wash,   187 
Nickel   silver,  to  clean,   154 
Nitric  acid  stains,  52 


Oil  stains,  19,  75 
Oilcloth,   see   Linoleum 
Organdie,  to  dry-clean,  61 
Organdie,  to  wash,  61 
Oriental  rugs,  se,e  Rugs 
Ostrich   feathers,    coloring,  90 
Ostrich   feathers,   curling,   88,   90 
Ostrich     feathers,     dry-cleaned     by 

gasoline   method,   87 
Ostrich     feathers,     dry-cleaned     by 

magnesia  method,   87 


214 


INDEX 


Ostrich    feathers,   redressing,   89 
Ostrich   feathers,   washing,  87 
Ox  gall,  use  of,  26 
Oxalic  acid,  27,  32 
Oxalic  acid  solution,  27 


Pad  used  when  removing  spots,  10 

[Paint  stains,  17,  21,  52,  133,  140 

Panama  hat,  to  clean,  104 

(Paraffin  Formulae,  162 

Parasols,  to  clean,  146,  147 

Passementerie,  jet,  to  clean,  157 

Patent  leather,  to  clean,  119,  123 

Pearls,  to  clean,  151 

Permanganate  of  potash   stains,   53 

Perspiration    stains,   63,    132 

Pillow   slips,   to  iron,   176 

Pillow  slips,  to  wash,  166 

Pillows,    to    wash,    180 

Pipe   clay,  28 

Plush  pile,  to  raise,  62 

Plush,    to   freshen,   147 

Plush,  to  make   crinkle.d,  147 

Plush,  to  wash,   147 

•Pongee,  to  wash,  136 

Pongee,   to  wash    and   iron,   197 

Portieres,  to  wash,   184 

Potato  cleaner,  28 

"Practical       Dry-Cleaner,       Scourer 

and  General  Dyer,  The,"  Wm.  T 

Brannt,  16 

Printer's  ink  stains,  49 
Professional  cleaners,  9 


)uills,  to  clean,  90 

Juilt,   eiderdown,  to  wash,  180 


Rain  spots  on  silk,  133 
Raincoats,  to  clean,  145 
Real   lace,  to  wash,   108 
Rhinestones,   to    clean,   155,   156 
Ribbons,    cleaning    and    renovating, 

125  et  sea. 
Ribbons,    silk,    to    wash    and    iron, 

198 
Rice   starch,   170   et   seq. 


Rice  water,  used  in  laundering,  183 
Ring  left  after  spot  is  removed,  to 

take  out,  11 

Rinsing  clothes,  166,  167 
Rinsing   clothes    in    winter,    167 
Rubber    sponges,    76 
Rugs,  to  clean,  79-81 
Rugs,   to   size,,  80 
Rust,  iron,   cause  of,   203 
Rust   stains,  54-56,   76 


Salt  and  lemon  juice  mixture,  26 

Salt,  use  of,  to  set  colors,  207 

Sateen,  to  impart  gloss   to,  62 

Satin   shoes,   to  clean,   129 

Satin  shoes,  to  tint,   129 

Satins,  cleaning  and  renovating,  126 

et  seq. 

Scorch  solvent,  29 
Scorch   stains,  56 
Shades,   to  clean,  84-85 
Shampoo,  dry,  15 
Sheets,  to  iron,   176 
Sheets,   to  wash,   165 
Shine,  to  remove,  67,  68,  138 
Shirts,   to   iron,   193   et  seq. 
Shoes,  kid,  to  clean,  122 
Shoes,  patent  leather,  to  clean,  119, 

Shoes,  satin,  to  clean,  129 
Shoes,  satin,  to  tint,  129 
Shoes,  suede,  to  blacken,   130 
Shoes,   suede,   to   clean,    124 
Shoes,  tan,  to  clean,  123 
Shoes,  white,  kid,  stain  for,  124 
Shoes,   white  leather  or  canvas,  to 

clean,    122 

Shoe-trees,  use  of,  130 
Silk,    carbon   tetrachloride   on,   14 
Silk,    care   of,   127 
Silk,  China,  to  clean,  125,  134 
Silk  handkerchiefs,  137 
Silk    handkerchiefs,    to    wash    and 

iron,   192 

Silk  lace,  to  wash,  107 
Silk  ribbons,  to  wash  and  iron,  198 
Silk,  to  bleach,  137 
SHk,    to    brush,    138 
Silk,    to    clean    and    renovate,    131 

et  seq. 


215 


INDEX 


Silk,   to   stiffen,   134,   138 

Silk,   white   flannel    used    to    clean, 

11 

Silks,  dark,  to  wash  and  iron,   198 
Silks,  to  wash  and  iron,  195  et  seq. 
Silver  filigree,  to  clean,  153 
Silver   lace,   to  dry-clean,    115 
Silver  lace,  to  wash,  114 
Silver   toilet   articles,    to   clean,   158 
Sizing  carpets  and  rugs,  80 
Skirts,    cleaning    of,    19 
Skirts,   to   iron,    176 
Skirts,  to  wash,  165 
Soap-bark,   29 
Soap   jelly,   use  9f,    160 
Soap,  to  economize,  160 
Soaps,   benzine.   14 
Soaps   for   washing  clothes,    160 
Soft  soap  and  glycerin  mixture,  25 
Solvents  used  in  dry-cleaning,  12 
Soot, stains,  56,  75,  89 
Special    work,    laundering,    180    et 

seq. 

Sponges,   use   of,   11 
Sponging  liquid,  67 
Sprinkling   clothes,   168 
Stain  for  white  kid  shoes,   124 
Stains,  removing,  general  directions 

for,  33  et  seq.,  58 
Starch,    161 

Starch  accessories,  172 
Starch   for  laces,  115 
Starch,  gum  Arabic,  172 
Starch,    hot    water,    170 
Starch,  laundry,   169  et  seq. 
Starch   luster,   Alsatian,   171 
Starch,   rice,    171    et   seq. 
Starch,  scenting,  171 
Starch:     tinting,     174 
Starching  black  or  dark  blue  goods, 

Starching   cheviots    or   coarse    shirt 

waists,    173 

Starching  clothes,   169  et  seq. 
Starching   collars,   173 
Starching   in    winter,    174 
Starching  mourning1  goods,    172 
Starching    muslins,    ginghams,    cali- 
cos,   172 

Steel    ornaments,   to   clean,   157 
Sticky    spots    on    carpet,   75 
Straw  hat  bleach,  106 


Straw   hats,  to  clean,   105 
Straw   hats,   to   renovate,    105 
Suede    shoes,    to    blacken,    130 
Suede  shoes,  to  clean,  124 


Table  linens,   to  iron,   176,   201 
Table  linens,  to  remove  stains  from, 

Table  linens,  to  wash,  165,   199  et 

seq. 

Table,   ready  reference,  58 
Taffeta,    to    clean,    136 
Taffeta,  to  renovate,  136 
Tampion,  to  make,  16 
Tan   gloves,   to  clean,   120 
Tan   leather,    to   clean,    120 
Ian  shoes,  to  clean,  123 
Tapestry,  to  clean,  85 
Tar   stains,   17,   56 
Tartaric   acid,   29,  32,   55 
Tea  stains,  37-39,  59,   131 
Tea,  use  of,  in  laundering,  208 
Tetrachloromethane,      see      Carbon 

tetrachloride 

Thread  lace,  to  clean,  108 
Ties,  to  wash,  182 
Tinted  goods,  cleaning  of,  32 
Tinting  satin  shoes,  129 
Tinting  starches,   174 
Tinting  various  materials,  111,   112 
Tinting  white  gloves,  96 
Toilet   articles   of   silver,   to    clean, 

158 

Tortoise-shell,   to   clean,   156,   157 
Towels,    to    iron,    176 
Towels,    to   wash,   165 
Trousers,   to  clean   and  press,   68 
Tubs,   laundry,   care  of,   163 
Turpentine,  use  of,  in  dry-cleaning, 

Turpentine,     use     of,     in     washing 
clothes,  162 


U 


"Universal"  cleaning  fluid,  29,  30 
Upholstery  leather,  to  clean  and  re- 
vive,  120 
Urine  stains,  57 


216 


INDEX 


Varnish  stains,  17 

Vegetable  fibre  fabrics,  cleaning  of, 

18,  31 

Veils,  to  clean,  148-149 
Velvet,  to  brush,  139 
Velvet,  to  clean,   16,   104,  126,   139 

et  seq. 

Velvet,  to  freshen,  140 
Velveteen   for   brushing  silk,    138 
Velveteen,   to   wash,   141 
Venetian   blinds,  to  clean,   85 
Vinegar,  use  of,  in  laundering,  208 
Volatile  substances,  use  of,  9 

W 

Waists,    lingerie,    to   wash,    203    et 

Washboards,  care  of,  164 

Washing  bedding,   180 

Washing    blankets,    205 

Washing    challies,    183 

Washing    chiffon,    197 

Washing   clothes,    159  et  seq. 

Washing    collars,    193 

Washing  colored  cottons,  181  et  seq. 

Washing  couch   covers,   184 

Washing    cuffs,    193 

Washing    curtains,    184   et   seq. 

Washing   dresses,    182 

Washing  embroidery,   188   et  seq. 

Washing  flannels,   206 

Washing  fluids,   161 

Washing  handkerchiefs,  190  et  seq. 

Washing  laces,   192,   193 

Washing  portieres,    184 


Washing1   shirts,   193   et   seq. 
Washing  silks,  195  et  seq. 
Washing  special   work,   180  et  seq. 
Washing   table    linens,    199    et   sea. 
Washing,  the  process  of,  165  et  seq. 
Washing  waists,  203 
Washing  white  goods,  204 
Washing  woollens,  205,  206 
Water,   hardened,    160 
Water,  made,  soft,  159 
Wax   spots   on   woollens,  65 
Wet  process  of  cleaning,  9,   10 
White  cotton  curtains,  to  clean,  83 
White  flannel    blouse,    to  clean,   65 
White    flannel    for   use   on    delicate, 

silk,   11 

White   flannel,    to   bleach,   64 
White    gloves,   to   tint,    101 
White   goods,   bleaching  of,   60,   61 
White  goods,  cleaning  of,  33  et  seq. 
White  goods,  to  wash,  204 
White  kid   shoes,   stain   for,    124 
White   leather  or   canvas  shoes,   to 

clean,  122 

White  vests,   to  clean,   60 
White  woollen  fabrics,  25;  see  un- 
der   Woollens 

Whitewash,  spots  and  stains  of,  75 
Wine    stains,   57 
Wings  and   quills,  to  clean,  90 
Wood    alcohol,    19 
Woollens,    cleaning   and   renovating 

of,  65  et  seq. 

Woollens,   to  wash,   205   et  seq. 
Workmen's   clothes,   to    whiten,   60, 

61 

Wringer,    care    of,    163 
Wrinkles,  to  remove,  67,  135 


217 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 

AN  INITIAL  FINE  OF  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  5O  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


REC'D  I_D 

FEB     5    1934 

MAR?    196Z 

"0^»«/M 

/ 

\~\"^ 

1    "   •-'" 

/ 

-  7 

ftpR  S019& 

rt  **"" 

JAN   281947 

SarT 

* 

LD  21-100m-7.'33 

o 


YB   I  1215 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRAK* 


